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Check with supply shops for body houses - 3M makes an excellent seam sealer.
I'm not sure I'd use an adhesive for a sealer - it's probably going to be too rigid when cured. Silicone would probably be better - at least you know it will stay flexible.
BWAHAHA!!!!
Trying not to spend cash that I did not have at the time......
I actually tried to seal a hole in a radiator with the stuff.
Key word is "tried".
Used 1/2 a tube, smeared on both sides, pressed into the fins and covering about 4" around the hole.
Let it sit overnight, filled the radiator and started the Jeep.
It blew a bubble and started leaking.
I replaced the radiator the next day.
Thanks to my Visa card and NAPA, (had the new all metal radiator in stock)
Who knows...
MAYBE if I would have let it sit for a few days it MIGHT have worked for a little while.
Get some automotive seam sealer like 5-90 said.
liquid nails is one of the lower performing construction adhiesives. PL premium is much better overall, and I used it to glue and seal particle board to sheet metal for a subwoofer baffel. I did use screws as well, but not as many as I would have if I was just using a sealer like calk or weatherstriping.
I'm doing the cut and fold on the rear quarters.I'll be using plenty of rivets...I'm just looking for something a little stronger than silicone to go between the steel panels before I fold and rivet to give the area a little more strength.I picked up a tube of liquid nails yesterday....the tube says it remains somewhat flexible.
Easy way to tell - isn't it a fairly "heavy-bodied" adhesive? Squirt out a short bead of it (an inch or so,) and hang it somewhere - or onto a bit of waxed paper.
Allow to cure. Then, pick it up and try to bend it.
If you can't fold it double and have it not crack, find something else.
PL400 is much better than Liquid Nails. I've had enough customers change their minds part way through remodeling projects, that I've disassembled most brands. Where I've glued wood to the steel beams in basements, PL400 is the only one that requires chiseling a layer of wood from the beam after prying off the bulk of the 2x4.
That said, I used the 3M stuff when I did the cut-and-fold, and it's held up to a few years of abuse so far...
yea as a little test I took two cans of green beans and applied liquid nails to them and stacked them ontop of another ....24hrs later I can easily separate the cans.Glad I didn't put that crap in my quarters.How long does it take this junk to dry?If I was building a house I could have the whole thing built before liquid nails dries.
Ha. I tried liquid nails just two days ago. Was tryin to get a piece of aluminum diamond plate stuck to the gas door. Needless to say....I went and bought four hex key bolts from home depot. Looks damn good i think. But liquid nails is a joke.
Of course it says nails . Has anyone tried to nail sheetmetal before? It doesnt turn out too well.
update:
I used PL premium 100% polyurathane construction adhesive.This stuff is way better than liquid nails.It dries within 24hrs and offers a flexible water proof bond.No wonder liquid nails is only $2.25.
I wouldn't use that crap on a bums cardboard shack.....
I used some polyurethane glue to seal the rear of my xj after I folded up the sheetmetal. It has worked well for a couple of years. The brand I used was Gorilla Glue.
I used some polyurethane glue to seal the rear of my xj after I folded up the sheetmetal. It has worked well for a couple of years. The brand I used was Gorilla Glue.
gorilla glue and elmers polyurethane are good glues, but I wouldn't use them as a sealer. They don't have enough fillers (any?) to fill and seal gaps. Construction adhesives are something like 80% filler, that's why they handle gaps well.