Lexan doors write-up...

[mjma]

how do you get in when fully closed???

I would imagine that he just pulls on the doors, since they're secured with a bungee!!


Now I see what you're going for here, that makes sense. When it's not raining, don't need em. Seems like they'll do the trick just fine!

 

[Weasel]

The only reason I didn't do that was because I think the rig looks funny with a roofrack and no doors. From a packaging standpoint, that's definitely the best solution...

Robert

might look funny? as compared to looking funny now? :cheers:

 

[5-90]

Mind? I'd be honored, you're one of my naxja heroes. I've got all the original hi-res pics if you (or anybody else) want em. I lost a fair amount of detail scaling em down...

I still think big curved door is gonna be a PAIN to carry around, though...

Robert

Shouldn't be that much of a curve, to be honest...

Anyhow, go ahead and .zip up what you've got (or make a .rar archive - I can handle either) and email it to me at my email addy, and I'll look it over when I get a chance. Looks like we're finally going to move (damn...) so it may be a bit for me to get around to it, but I'll give it a once-over either in between stuffing boxes or after we start getting settled in, and see what I can come up with. I might have an idea for storage as well.

As far as the bending - you've got the rigid central frame. Since you're using 1/8" poly, you could just put the rigid outer frame on, then use a heat gun or a hair dryer and a spreader to heat it up, and let it "set" afterwards. It will already have the shape from the central frame and the exterior frame, so you're just relieving the strain by allowing it to take the new shape. Once it's set, you can then insulate the outer frame (using the small foam tube, as I'd mentioned,) and that might take care of the other issues you're having.

I'd probably use iron pipe for the external frame - it would hold the shape better until you get the poly to set. Although copper would look much nicer (if you weren't going to cover it anyhow...)

To be honest, I do like the idea! It could use some small refinement (what first draft couldn't? I've got a few that could...) but the concept is sound, and it's something to base from. The idea of hinging the doors in half is also valid - just would be a bit more difficult in execution. However, it would make the storage problem exponentially easier...

5-90 AT naxja DOT org

 

[WrenchMonkey]

how do you get in when fully closed???

I would imagine that he just pulls on the doors, since they're secured with a bungee...

Well, originally, when all I had was the bungee, that's what I had to do. But peeling the top of the door back to reach inside and unhook the bungee, was kind of a pain, especially if I was trying to get in quick in the rain.

So before long I made up the "wedge" (shown in post #3) to hold the driver's door shut from the outside. Now I walk up, press gently on the door, and the wedge falls out into my hand, releasing the top of the door. Then with the other hand, I grab the back edge of the door and lift slightly, releasing the latch from the striker.

And the door swings open.

Robert

-- 5-90, I'll get back to you asap, I'm on my way back out for the night...

 

[RichP]

Well, originally, when all I had was the bungee, that's what I had to do. But peeling the top of the door back to reach inside and unhook the bungee, was kind of a pain, especially if I was trying to get in quick in the rain.

So before long I made up the "wedge" (shown in post #3) to hold the driver's door shut from the outside. Now I walk up, press gently on the door, and the wedge falls out into my hand, releasing the top of the door. Then with the other hand, I grab the back edge of the door and lift slightly, releasing the latch from the striker.

And the door swings open.

Robert

-- 5-90, I'll get back to you asap, I'm on my way back out for the night...

Why not use magnetic strip tape on the edges of the door to hold it closed when parked, when the doors come off the magnet strip comes with them.

 

[WrenchMonkey]

Shouldn't be that much of a curve, to be honest... I might have an idea for storage as well.

I took a rough measurement last night, the gap at the top (with the lexan flat) is ~5". So the curved door will be 5" thick compared to 1". Now they could be nested, so they wouldn't be 10" together, more like 7". I suppose we could work with that, I'd be interested in your "idea"...

As far as the bending - you've got the rigid central frame. Since you're using 1/8" poly, you could just put the rigid outer frame on, then use a heat gun or a hair dryer and a spreader to heat it up, and let it "set" afterwards. It will already have the shape from the central frame and the exterior frame, so you're just relieving the strain by allowing it to take the new shape.

I'm wondering if we're talking about the same material. If I took my skin off the frame, I bet I could bend the 4' piece 180* without breaking it. I just can't believe that there's any real strain to relieve, in my gentle 10* curve.

If the new top half of the frame is strong enough to keep from flapping, I'm sure the lexan will just go along for the ride.

Once it's set, you can then insulate the outer frame (using the small foam tube, as I'd mentioned,) and that might take care of the other issues you're having.

Maybe not a tube, since there's not much room. Since the back of the door rests against the doorjamb to hold the latch shut, there's not much of a gap for another foam tube. Something flatter might work, though, to help cushion whatever movement/flapping we had. I guess that's what you already said, huh?

To be honest, I do like the idea! It could use some small refinement (what first draft couldn't? I've got a few that could...) but the concept is sound, and it's something to base from.

Oh, by all means, refine your heart out. I certainly know it's not flawless, and I welcome the input to work out the bugs...

My only hangup is that they do work well enough for me, that I can't justify starting over from scratch on a second generation.

Thanks,
Robert

 

[WrenchMonkey]

Why not use magnetic strip tape on the edges of the door to hold it closed when parked...

That's not a bad idea either. I'll have to check how much overlap there is between the edge of the door and the flat part of the door jamb...

Robert

 

[5-90]

I took a rough measurement last night, the gap at the top (with the lexan flat) is ~5". So the curved door will be 5" thick compared to 1". Now they could be nested, so they wouldn't be 10" together, more like 7". I suppose we could work with that, I'd be interested in your "idea"...



I'm wondering if we're talking about the same material. If I took my skin off the frame, I bet I could bend the 4' piece 180* without breaking it. I just can't believe that there's any real strain to relieve, in my gentle 10* curve.

If the new top half of the frame is strong enough to keep from flapping, I'm sure the lexan will just go along for the ride.



Maybe not a tube, since there's not much room. Since the back of the door rests against the doorjamb to hold the latch shut, there's not much of a gap for another foam tube. Something flatter might work, though, to help cushion whatever movement/flapping we had. I guess that's what you already said, huh?



Oh, by all means, refine your heart out. I certainly know it's not flawless, and I welcome the input to work out the bugs...

My only hangup is that they do work well enough for me, that I can't justify starting over from scratch on a second generation.

Thanks,
Robert

There wouldn't be much strain (I've worked with Lexan/polycarbonate before, and Plexiglas/acrylic, and ...) but there would be just enough that I'd prefer to have it relieved than not. Besides, it's fairly easy to do - bend it to shape, then heat it to relax it. It will hold the new shape just fine (Hell, you could almost bend a permanent right angle in the stuff, or nearly fold it in half if you want.) You wouldn't even have to "start over from scratch" - just modify what you've got now.

1/8" pipe would probably be too small - and 1/8" copper tube too soft. 1/4" pipe would probably be about right (just don't bother threading it,) or 1/4" copper tube - slit to accept poly sheet, insert sheet, and fill with epoxy. Let the epoxy cure, then heat the doors to relax the sheet.

For storage - how much room do you have under your roof rack? Just have "little feet" or perhaps rollers to accept the doors hanging under the basket, and maybe a drop latch to hold them in place. Need the doors? Lift the latch (you can use angle iron for this as well,) pull out the door, and hang it. Repeat for other side. You can even have the doors accessible by the side where they go - put the driver's door up front and the passenger door under the back of the roof rack...

 

[jesterbomb]

I like it. Actually, hotel bathrooms in eurpoe used to be closed like that. With no one in the room, anyone could enter, with someone in the room, slip a rope around both (Outward swinging) doorknobs and voila! No one can enter.

 

[WrenchMonkey]

...1/4" pipe would probably be about right, slit to accept poly sheet...

Not sure how I'd make that slit. Cutoff wheel and a REALLY steady hand?

For storage - how much room do you have under your roof rack?
...put the driver's door up front and the passenger door under the back of the roof rack...

Well, right now they're not in a roof rack, my roof rack is in the garage. I've got em in a swing out rack inside the truck, over the spare, just below the level of the windowsill. And like I said, that one I'll start over from sratch on this winter.

But I do see your point, they could be stored under the average roof rack. But they'd still have to nest, at least for a two door. Each door is like 46" long.

Might have to access em out the back, too. I'm sure my old surco doesn't spread its legs that far. I doubt many do...


And on a personal side note, while chopping up your quotes, I noticed you double space your periods.

You really are my friggin hero...

Robert

 

[5-90]

Not sure how I'd make that slit. Cutoff wheel and a REALLY steady hand?

And on a personal side note, while chopping up your quotes, I noticed you double space your periods.

You really are my friggin hero...

Robert

Nah - table saw, set the guide fence, and put in a grit blade. I'm sure you've got access to a table saw somewhere...

Yep - two spaces after periods. Punctuation goes inside parenthesis. I learned a couple of whiles ago and dammit, I don't plan to change anytime soon.

I probably do have one habit that drives grammarians nuts - rather than using nested parenthesis, I'll alternate (parenthesis, brackets, braces.) Easier to keep track of that way...

 

[XJ Beater]

when the doors are bungied to each other closed, heat up the area of the bend with a small handheld propane torch till it softens, leave it bent, once it cools, itll keep the right angle, worked for me making a rear window for my old cherokee