let this be THE peguot to AX-15 swap thread

[Oizarod115]

i'm in the process of tracking down parts for this swap. my pukegoat shifts fine and i abuse it daily, its been whining and grinding and all that for the 2 years(25,000mi) i've owned it and i keep her topped off delaying the inevitable.

i have a YJ AX15 (unknown year) from a buddy who went v8 i know the transmission is good, and i'm rebuilding a spare t-case to 23 spline for the swap.

one question i have, will the YJ bellhousing clock the t-case differently or is that just a bunch of hype? i've heard it would raise the t-case towards the floor and possibly require some "floorpan massaging"

if it will cause a problem i have a line on an XJ bellhousing i can score for 50 bucks but i got the transmission free so i'd rather run what i've got if i can.

thanks in advacne,
-nick

 

[5-90]

i'm in the process of tracking down parts for this swap. my pukegoat shifts fine and i abuse it daily, its been whining and grinding and all that for the 2 years(25,000mi) i've owned it and i keep her topped off delaying the inevitable.

i have a YJ AX15 (unknown year) from a buddy who went v8 i know the transmission is good, and i'm rebuilding a spare t-case to 23 spline for the swap.

one question i have, will the YJ bellhousing clock the t-case differently or is that just a bunch of hype? i've heard it would raise the t-case towards the floor and possibly require some "floorpan massaging"

if it will cause a problem i have a line on an XJ bellhousing i can score for 50 bucks but i got the transmission free so i'd rather run what i've got if i can.

thanks in advacne,
-nick

The bellhousing won't "clock" the transfer case differently - it just mounts the transmission to the engine. The transfer case adapter housing can "clock" the transfer case differently (I think the YJ is clocked a little flatter,) but that's not anything that you shouldn't be able to correct with a little "hammer massage." The bellhousings and basic transmission cases are otherwise the same.

I'm pretty sure you'll still need to swap either the transfer case (entirely) or the transfer case input gear, since the spline counts are different. At least, I know they're different on the XJ, and I've no particular reason to suspect that the AX-15 output would be different between the XJ and the YJ.

 

[vetteboy]

The transfer case adapter housing can "clock" the transfer case differently (I think the YJ is clocked a little flatter,) but that's not anything that you shouldn't be able to correct with a little "hammer massage."

I'm pretty sure you'll still need to swap either the transfer case (entirely) or the transfer case input gear, since the spline counts are different.

I isolated the major points from your reply here.

The YJ AX15 tailhousing does indeed clock the case flatter, and you'll have to hammer the crap out of the floor to fit the standard transfer case behind it. It's been done (i.e., this is why I have this knowledge), but it's not the ideal swap.

The peugeot has a 21-spline output and the AX15 (91 and later) has a 23-spline. As long as the years are similar you can just swap the input gear over to your current t-case; if the t-case is ~'96 or newer they changed the profile on the planetary teeth and the input gear isn't a direct swap.

The ONLY reason I'd swap the input gear vs. swapping the whole case, is because the older 231's had the stamped steel low range fork vs. the cast aluminum, and I always had better luck with the steel fork. YMMV.

edit: and as previously mentioned in this thread, it's no guarantee that the current pilot bushing will work for your application. Measure it and check for yourself. You might have to do a custom bushing.

 

[5-90]

The peugeot has a 21-spline output and the AX15 (91 and later) has a 23-spline. As long as the years are similar you can just swap the input gear over to your current t-case; if the t-case is ~'96 or newer they changed the profile on the planetary teeth and the input gear isn't a direct swap.

The ONLY reason I'd swap the input gear vs. swapping the whole case, is because the older 231's had the stamped steel low range fork vs. the cast aluminum, and I always had better luck with the steel fork. YMMV.

True. Since he said it came from a YJ (1987-1996 "Universal" body style,) I think the cutoff was about the same time as the "YJ" became the "TJ". But yes, they did change the cut of the teeth on the input set sometime around the 1996/1997 MY break.

 

[vetteboy]

But yes, they did change the cut of the teeth on the input set sometime around the 1996/1997 MY break.

This is something that would have been nice to know the first time I did one of these swaps.

Interesting fact: the new gear cut does fit in the old t-case, it does spin, and it will move the vehicle. It will also slowly fill your t-case with fine metal powder and cause the oil pump to seize up, resulting in burned up bearings and an entire smoked planetary carrier and ring gear, which of course isn't a serviceable part.

:conceited

 

[thechief86]

hey man, i've done it! i had a little trouble with builing a crossmember, and ended up just bracing the old one up and drilling new holes for the tranny to bolt to. i cut some leaf spring bushings from a 67 corvette to make a tranny mount that the bolts could go through. i did have to swap the input shaft on the t-case from a 21 spline to a 23, but if you can put stuff back the way it came and you know how to use snap ring pliers, you should be ok. the ax-15 is a little shorter, so you may want to lengthen the rear driveshaft, and maybe even shorten the front one. the threaded holes on the side of the transmission are the best thing to work off of to try and fab up a mount for your linkage. the pilot bushing from the puegot won't work with your ax15, but the one from the clutch kit for the ax15 won't fit in your flywheel, so you'll hafta come up with another bushing/bearing on your own. i used the one for a 73 cj5, and it work great for about six months, and now i'm getting a little bit of a vibe from it. i've taken the transmission out a couple of times, but neither time did i change the bearing. napa auto parts gave me a bushing that has the outside diameter i need for the flywheel, and the inside diameter that the ax15 needs. i'm gonna try and get that to work this weekend... good luck! oh yeah, i had to buy the hydraulic system for the same year cherokee that the trans came out of(which was actually a 97 wrangler), and make it fit by drilling new holes for the master cylinder to bolt to. i coudn't find anywhere but the dealer to sell me the hose that goes from there to the slave, so i had to pay 300 buckaroos for the whole assembly! dangola. i only paid 200 for the jeep. again, good luck.

 

[Stihl029]

Hey Chief how'd the new bushing do? I think that I used the same one that you initially did, however I noticed a vibe only when in neutral. That went away one afternoon when I had my rear up and rotated the driveline by hand feeling for it. I got to a tough spot and then it turned freely with no more tough spot. Kinda weird, but hey it works right?

 

[Dangerous]

Hey! I just signed up, been reading this thread... great stuff guys. Because i'm just about to do this Swap in MY 88 Laredo. Just brought the AX15 home the other day.

Some lowdown on my XJ... i kind of got lucky.... a few years back i swapped out the Engine for a 92 (as well as the Rad set up) and was lucky enough to find the AX15 from a 92. Which should make things a little easier. It still also has the Transfer case attached. Figured i'd go that route so everything will pretty much bolt right in. So i doubt i'll have the Pilot Bearing issue.... we'll see. Still need to change it none the less.

But my thought... which is what brings me to this thread ... is all the plugs on the AX15 are different then the (88) Peugot. How do i switch these over and what are they for? Everything else seems to be answered here... except that (electrical plug) issue. Though i only quickly looked at it, but figured that would be something i'd need to deal with.

I have the Crossmember for this AX15 and both Driveshafts... ya, i got EVERYTHING. Its just glancing at the plugs made me think... "CRAP!"

 

[5-90]

Crossmember - same-same.
Mount - get a new one.
Driveshafts - same-same.

The only electrical plug I can think of is for the reverse lamp switch - you're going to need to reterminate a silly little two-prong push-on and replace it with a two-pole Delphi Weatherpack (and you may need to extend the wiring a bit.)

For your "1992 into RENIX" issue, note the following:
1) You will need to put the RENIX flywheel on the HO engine - the CPS notches aren't compatible (please measure the length of a screw under the head and let me know, so I can see about adding it to my table and sourcing useful replacements. I know the threads are 1/2"-20, I'm just unsure about the length. Underside of head to tip, please.)

2) You'll know whether you need a pilot bushing or not as soon as you measure the pilot OD on your 1992. If it's down around 5/8", you won't need one. If it's north of 3/4", you will - I've given the application you'll need above.

3) The 1992 should still have the internal slave cylinder - with the possible exception of the pilot bearing/bushing, you can continue to use the exact same clutch kit as for the Peugeot. No trouble.

Weatherpack terminals are easy enough to find - either as kits, or preterminated with 6" pigtails. They do need a slightly different crimper that costs a few bucks - if you don't want to drop the dimes on one (about $25 or so,) get a pigtailed one.

 

[t-frady]

one thing i ran into as well which i havent read anywhere was
the T-case shift linkage i used it off the 92 ALL of it including the part it goes in to on the body.... but not the handle its self from there on you will need or have to fab something
and the reverse switch 5-90 stated
thanks 5-90 he knows his stuff he helped me with mine

 

[5-90]

one thing i ran into as well which i havent read anywhere was
the T-case shift linkage i used it off the 92 ALL of it including the part it goes in to on the body.... but not the handle its self from there on you will need or have to fab something
and the reverse switch 5-90 stated
thanks 5-90 he knows his stuff he helped me with mine

I wonder if that was due to using a 1991-up gearbox? I'll have to bear that in mind when I do the refit on my 88 (since it will be getting a 1994 AX-15e.)

Of course, if I don't manage to score a D300 by then, I'll be putting in an NP242 - which means a Novak linkage anyhow (if I can't get a gear drive, I want to get an advantage over all of these idiots I am forced to share the road with out here - most of whom shouldn't get any closer to being in control of a motor vehicle than putting a dollar in the farebox...)

 

[Dangerous]

Awesome... thanks 5-90... though a couple things you lost me on... but i'll read it a few more times... maybe it'll come to me?... (maybe i need more coffee... or a DRINK!). But i'm not to keen on the names of things... i call everything... "that Thing, by that other Thing!" Ya, i'm one of these learning as i go guys (loving every minute of it)... my model just got bigger!?

But with regards to the Plugs i was talking about, i took some pictures of the two Trannies and set these up. I'm just wondering what each is... actually! i have no CLUE! (i colour coded each blow up)... !!! .... and need to know what matches what, now that i think of it. But the actual plugs are different and what do i do? Can i just splice in the appropriate plug to existing line? Also that sensor THING on the bell housing.. CPS is it? Can i just take the one off the Peugeot and change it that way? (again, different plug).. refresher... 1988 XJ with a 1992 engine, swapping in the 1992 AX/15.

Here are the pics...

 

[TheNerd]

Red = Yellow = Reverse Light switch
Pink = Orange = Vehicle Speed indicator (Pink is cable driven, Orange is electric)
Green = Vacuum switch -> This actuates the vacuum disconnect on the front axle housing as well as turns on a light on the instrument cluster.
Blue = (total guess?) the Instrument cluster light.

I know if you get an SYE for the x-fer case, you can install the Green/Pink thingies (trying to make you more comfortable with the terminology) and make your instrument cluster and front axle work no problem.

I believe that without an SYE, you can just swap the pink and orange doo-dads (the whole assembly, errr... sha-bang), but you wont have dash lights or an operating front vacuum disconnect.

Finally, the red plug gizzy you can just cut and re-wire with an end that fits into the yellow hoo-ha. (As 5-90 mentioned, this terminal has a technical name that you will need to know).

I was not aware that the CPS ends were different, so I can't help you there.

 

[5-90]

The CKP sensors (crankshaft sensors) are physically compatible with each other - but are not electrically compatible. Short form? Put the RENIX sensor on the later transmission, you'll be just fine (if you have RENIX electronics, use a RENIX flywheel and RENIX CKP. If you have ChryCo electronics, use a ChryCo flywheel and ChryCo CKP. Otherwise, "damn thing won't start!")

Now to identify illustrated/detailed componentry:

RED detail on Peugeot - that's the reverse lamp switch. You'll need to reterminate the harness connector to mate with the AX-15, look for a two-pole Delphi Weatherpack to mate with the connector on the AX-15 reverse lamp swtich (take the switch with you if you like.)

PNK detail on Peugeot transfer case illo - that's the connection for the mechanical speedo. I think that will just swap over to the later tcase, and obviate the entire problem.

GRN detail, same pic - that's the vacuum actuator switch for the front axle disconnect. Unknown if it will swap over - but you could always do the "cable lock mod" for the front axle CAD or just lock it in place - no trouble there.

BLU detail, AX-15 tcase - I believe that's the switch for the 4WD indicator in the IP. May take some fairly fancy rewiring to mate up - I haven't had to look into that yet.

ORG detail, AX-15 tcase - electronic speedo connector. Should be exchangeable with the mech speedo connector on the earlier tcase.

YEL details, AX-15 - Reverse lamp switch. This is the part to take with you if you're not sure what you're looking for on the harness connector - find a connector shell that fits the Delphi Weatherpack on this switch.

Phew! That looks like about everything you've asked...

 

[Dangerous]

The CKP sensors (crankshaft sensors) are physically compatible with each other - but are not electrically compatible. Short form? Put the RENIX sensor on the later transmission, you'll be just fine (if you have RENIX electronics, use a RENIX flywheel and RENIX CKP. If you have ChryCo electronics, use a ChryCo flywheel and ChryCo CKP. Otherwise, "damn thing won't start!")

AWESOME! Thanks 5-90 ... you Da Mannnn! I copied all this info and printed them out so i can refer back to them once i get this project going. Hopefully this will help a few others as well ... all your hard work here... its greatly Appreciated... i owe you a REAL tall Canadian Beer (cuz i'm Canadian, and they are easy to come by)... or two .... or three! I'll have to deliver them one day!

That said... sorry... one more question. When you talk RENIX and such. I have the '92 engine but alot of my '88 parts went on it because of these plug (wiring) issues. So i'm going to assume i have ChryCo stuff... is Renix more modern then the '88?

Again... thanks ALOT 5-90... its greatly appreciated.

Danni

 

[5-90]

I should cull, collect, and do a monolothic writeup on this one of these days...

1987-1990 - RENIX. pre-OBD system used by AMC. Spec'd by Renault, built by Bendix/King. Considered the "most primitive" of the control systems on the 242ci, but I prefer it.

1991-1995 - OBD-I ChryCo.

1996-2007 - OBD-II ChryCo.

Your 1988 is RENIX. Most of the sensors are actually standard GM goodies (save the HEGO, CKP, and the TPS...) and the Delphi Weatherpack plugs are GM standard goodies as well. So, little dingusses for the RENIX setup aren't difficult to get - you can source most of them from outfits like Marren Fuel Injection (www.injector.com,) since GM parts are often used for aftermarket setups or kit cars.

The key CKP issue is simple - the RENIX sensor works on a different principle than the HO, so they generate dissimilar signals and work from different "keys" at the sensor end. If you have RENIX controls, use the RENIX CKP. If you have HO controls, use the HO CKP (OBD-I or OBD-II, depending. I think the sensors are the same, but the connectors differ.)

 

[jeprovo]

Just finished doing this swap - 2wd BA-10 to 4WD AX-15, and did a 4WD conversion at the same time. I think the AX-15 was a 93, anyhow it was an internal slave setup. This made it all go easy. The Clutch setups are the same - Same Slave - Same Pilot Bearing. Used a new BA10 Master for the install - and the clutch seems to work fine. I'm happy with it. Wiring was as previously posted, I just unplugged the BA-10 connector, wired in a weather pack to connect to the AX-15 for reverse lights. Easy.

I'm missing three little bolts though. They thread into the bellhousing through the "inspection cover". One is above the starter, one directly opposite to it on the other side, and one at 6:00 in between the two large nuts and bolts that dolt the trans to the engine. They weren't installed on the BA10. Not sure what thread they are or if I even need them. A M8x1.25 and 5/16-18 both don't fit, but I'm pretty sure they're one of the two. Any Ideas? Do I really need them?

 

[Dangerous]

Okay question for ya! Probably seems silly to most.. but without a doubt.. someone else is probably thinking/wondering the same thing.

This Reverse Lamp Switch... the Weatherpack ... is that what i call it when i go to the parts store and try to explain it? Don't want the guys to look at me with an all screwed up face... "WHAT!?" hee hee

Jeprovo, you wouldn't happen to still have the packaging for what you ended up with would you ... maybe toss me a part number, and brand/make? Or whatever is written on the box?

 

[jeprovo]

I just cut one off a dead cooling fan that was lying around...
If you go to Autozone's website it looks like their part number 8173 will work.
Honestly, anything will work. You could just splice the wires together with you're favorite method (crimp, solder, wire nuts and electrical tape... ). It's not like those switches fail often, or that you're ever going to put the BA10 back in.

 

[5-90]

Just finished doing this swap - 2wd BA-10 to 4WD AX-15, and did a 4WD conversion at the same time. I think the AX-15 was a 93, anyhow it was an internal slave setup. This made it all go easy. The Clutch setups are the same - Same Slave - Same Pilot Bearing. Used a new BA10 Master for the install - and the clutch seems to work fine. I'm happy with it. Wiring was as previously posted, I just unplugged the BA-10 connector, wired in a weather pack to connect to the AX-15 for reverse lights. Easy.

So, the pilot is the same size on the 1993? That argues heavily in favour of the "internal slave" (AX-15i) pilot being the same size as the BA-10/5 pilot, and the rear crankshaft dimensions being the same

I'm missing three little bolts though. They thread into the bellhousing through the "inspection cover". One is above the starter, one directly opposite to it on the other side, and one at 6:00 in between the two large nuts and bolts that dolt the trans to the engine. They weren't installed on the BA10. Not sure what thread they are or if I even need them. A M8x1.25 and 5/16-18 both don't fit, but I'm pretty sure they're one of the two. Any Ideas? Do I really need them?

That's not really an "inspection plate" - more of a "shim." I'm not really sure what it's there for, but I'm fairly sure it's needed. However, if you've got the four bellhousing screws in place, it's not going anywhere. The two upper screws you're talking about (about 1:30 and 10:30 on the bell, right?) are some funky oversize tapping screw - so it's not likely to be any sort of standard thread. The lower one is probably the same.

I know I didn't put the upper two screws back in the first time I changed the transmission in my 88, and they've been gone since. Haven't had any trouble (that's not the sort of thing that would leave 1st and 2d gear on the countershaft neatly stripped...)