leaf spring question....

ok so i just called full traction to ask about the rear leafs and the sales guy who helped me got all offended when i asked who made the rear leafs then proceeded to tell me they make there own. then i told him they need to work on there customer service because my kit was short some bolts and sleeves and i think he almost had an anerism he was so upset hahaha what a fawkin douche bag. go fawk yourself sale clerk dude

You're not the first person I've heard from that said Full Traction is a bunch of a-holes.

I WAS ALSO THINKING WHAT IF I SWITCHED TO SPRING UNDER AND A LONGER SHACKLE? I WOULD MOST LIKELY HAVE THE SAME TRAVEL BUT A LOWER STANCE?

Easy on the caps. However, you can't run a spring under with a SOA type spring, it's too short, the locating pin is in the wrong spot, and on the bottom side. Also, you would have no droop, and would stuff tire into your fender before you even flattened out a spring. Keep in mind, you would be losing a good 4-5" of height by going spring under also.
 
jim..
thank you for all your insight. when i talked to the guy from full traction he said well what did the box say lol i told him they didnt come in a box.so i guess he was saying that they make there own springs.
 
jim..
thank you for all your insight. when i talked to the guy from full traction he said well what did the box say lol i told him they didnt come in a box.so i guess he was saying that they make there own springs.

wow, you just spent a grip load with them and they have the oddasity to demean you afterwards... guess i know where i won't be spending my money anytime soon. Sorry to hear they were a bunch of XXXX suckers. I'm a 10 minute drive from rubicon express and those guys are really cool, wish they had more to offer in the prerunner taste. Jim called it with spending more time tweaking your bypasses before you waste any time taking out leaves.
 
deavers will probably be way stiffer.

deavers are a progressive spring, meaning they are soft while barely compressed they are soft and they get more stiff the more they compress...best leafs you will ever buy for jeepspeed... IMO.
 
stiffer springs handle a beating better. if you're not going to shell out the dough for a progressive pack like the deaver jeepspeed springs, you want a stiffer spring because it will take a beating for a longer amount of time. i run RE springs but they are too soft, every time i go out they get a little bit flatter.
 
now i have been doing a little research on this hole ranger springs in a jeep. now ranger deavers measure 50 and 3/4 straight across eye to eye. now xj stock springs measure 51 straigth across eye to eye.

f31 deaver ranger springs are 2.5" of light now if i run a 1" or 2" swing shackle that will give me 3.5 or 4.5" inches of lift which is about perfect height. cause these ft leafs are tall which makes a higher center of gravity meaning top heavy.
 
If I'm understanding this correctly, you have not driven on the springs yet? They will settle, were me I would load a few spare wheels, or something heavy in the back and go hit some bumps and settle them in and reevaluate. Did you get your kit directly from FT? They have always been very courteous and helpful to me, never once had a problem with them, of course last time I talked with some of the guys there they did not sell their kits to the public. Good luck
 
If I'm understanding this correctly, you have not driven on the springs yet? They will settle, were me I would load a few spare wheels, or something heavy in the back and go hit some bumps and settle them in and reevaluate.

x2

Also, fit the tire you plan on running on there. Those 235's's (or 30's) look tiny with any amount of lift.
 
The full traction springs the Jeepspeed guys i chased for were there off the shelf 6" lift kit springs. Like Jim said, rumor has it they are built by Deaver, not a Deaver race pack, but a damn god spring. It worked well, trust me.
 
the shocks i am using are 16" triple bypass f.o.a.'s. and the rig is for jeepspeed not crawling

Let me clarify what i was asking, i just caught your other thread that said you were going for a non competition build.

By competition or recreation what i was asking if you planning to race in the jeepspeed series or just go fast for fun. Being that you posted in the jeepspeed section i figured there wasn't any crawling....

There could be a difference in the answers you would get on competition vs. recreation. Some things are fine if you don't want to compete but are not jeepspeed legal. There are also some things that the jeepspeed racers need that would be unnecessary for non-competition fun.

for example, maybe your springs would be fine with a few leafs pulled if you weren't going to have a heavy rig. The race springs are meant to have a lot of weight of tubing, spare tires, parts, fuel and tools over them. On a stock empty truck they would probably be stiff and tall. I'll tell you for sure when i get mine together, i have the race springs but none of the other stuff yet.

I wasn't trying to be an ass, just trying to get the details the guys that know more than me need to answer your question. :D
 
61 Scout

sorry if i came across as an ass i wasnt trying to be. im not going to race at this time. so the rig will be just for fun. but def want it to be able to run at a race speed. im not going to have the weight that a race rig would so of course my springs are goin to be stiff.
i wonder how much they will break in or if i will end up having to pull a leaf or two out of it
 
x2

Also, fit the tire you plan on running on there. Those 235's's (or 30's) look tiny with any amount of lift.



haha right those tires are just the stockers i have to finish the install of the kit and roll it out of my garage before i can put bigger tires on it because with the rack on the top and 33's i cant get it out of the door.

which brings up another topic have any of you guys installed a ft long arm kit onto a 2.5 ax5 231 jeep?

im having a little trouble with the crossmember. the stock location for the crossmember to mount it exactly the same spot as my lower long arm is anyone else run into this problem?

i think im just gonna have to build myself a crossmember
 
haha right those tires are just the stockers i have to finish the install of the kit and roll it out of my garage before i can put bigger tires on it because with the rack on the top and 33's i cant get it out of the door.

which brings up another topic have any of you guys installed a ft long arm kit onto a 2.5 ax5 231 jeep?

im having a little trouble with the crossmember. the stock location for the crossmember to mount it exactly the same spot as my lower long arm is anyone else run into this problem?

i think im just gonna have to build myself a crossmember


The crossmember has 2 different positions, one forward and one back. It varies by engine/trans configuration. The 2.5/ax5 is in the forward, as is my 4.0/peugeot. the 4.0/aw4 and 4.0/ax15 put the xmember in the rear spot.

My rusty's long arm kit makes no mention of this in the literature. when i put it on my old 2.5 rig I learned this hard way. followed the illustrated directions and then had to redo the whole damn thing and adjust the arms to a 3" shorter length so i could get the trans mount on the x-member...only to find the 6 cylinder, then I parted out the 4.

I don't know enough about the full traction kit, but i would almost bet this is the same issue.
 
well see thats the thing i have the arms adjusted all the way in and my axle is in the right spot centered in the wheel well i think im going to just MAKE mine fit haha. im goin over to work on it later today i will take some photos
 
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