LCA Fab Help

[feerocknok]

I wasn't getting any real responses in Modified on this, so I wanted to ask here.

I'm up 4" on my MJ and I need new LCAs. Was considering making them, not sure why not to.

2"x.25" DOM good?
Any suggestions on adjustments?
How important are heims?
The longer the better?

I've got some .75x.75" square stock, but I don't know anything about the strength of square stock.

TIA!

 

[Roxtar]

2"X.25" is good.
Adjustable is very important.
RE SF joints are best (IMNSHO). Use them on both ends.
Yes, both ends. Even if it's a DD.

 

[CRASH]

Are you planning on running them in the stock frame mounts?

 

[Goatman]

2"X.25" is good.
Adjustable is very important.
RE SF joints are best (IMNSHO). Use them on both ends.
Yes, both ends. Even if it's a DD.

Ditto!

The RE joints are nicer to use because you can adjust them (tighten them when a little worn) without taking the joint apart. Most that get non-adjustable control arms later wish they had adjustable arms. I wouldn't use anything smaller than 2" .250 wall DOM.

 

[BrettM]

2" .250wall DOM with flex joints. you can get everything you need in one stop here:
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=59
and
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=168

 

[Roxtar]

Ditto!

The RE joints are nicer to use because you can adjust them (tighten them when a little worn) without taking the joint apart.

In fact, if you fab the mounts right, you can adjust them while they're still installed.

 

[feerocknok]

Are you planning on running them in the stock frame mounts?

Sorry for the delay, was on a vacation.

The arms are currently hitting the mounts on the axle, so I believe my options are to install longer arms that go back further on the frame, or put a bend in each of the arms.

Are the RE joints just heims? Would it be structually sound enough to work in grade 8 bolts and nuts onto the arms rather than the $33 adjusters? Part of the reason of building these is to not pay the $260 the local shop quoted me on them.

 

[kubtastic]

The arms are currently hitting the mounts on the axle, so I believe my options are to install longer arms that go back further on the frame, or put a bend in each of the arms.

RE also has the tubing meet that joint off center in their kits, which adds some room.

Are the RE joints just heims?

short answer, no. Somewhere between bushing and heim is this type of joint that uses a metal ball contained by two sections of some kind of poly.

Would it be structually sound enough to work in grade 8 bolts and nuts onto the arms rather than the $33 adjusters? Part of the reason of building these is to not pay the $260 the local shop quoted me on them.

I think you could pass on those adjusters you're talking about - it's a $33 section of all-thread that still requires an insert and jam nut for the female side. Kid's up there has threaded rod attached directly to the RE joint.(speaking of that, is that 1" or 1.25" there?). I think that if you go to B7 all thread you'll beat grade-8 bolts for the same length (*on price).

 

[Roxtar]

Kid's up there has threaded rod attached directly to the RE joint.(speaking of that, is that 1" or 1.25" there?). I think that if you go to B7 all thread you'll beat grade-8 bolts for the same length (*on price).

Those are the ends for my links.
I used 1" NF B7.
B7, right hand thread, is pretty reasonable and plenty strong.
LH end is another story. Price doubles.