Kindo OT: buying a torque wrench

[bajacalal]

I got a Husky one from Home Depot (5-120 ft/lbs). Click type, very durable, seems accurate. Of course, I bought this when I first started do auto mechanics so...1998. Who knows whats changed since then or where they exported the factory to since then.

 

[zfinger]

If you're getting this mainly for engine work, a 3/8" drive pound-foot wrench and a 3/8" or 1/4" drive pound-inch wrench should serve you well. I'd go with at least Craftsman - Mac, Matco, or Snap-On being preferred. You could also check with MRO suppliers (like MSC Direct)...

5-90

My dad worksfor MSC Direct (big friggin grin) I get tools sooo cheap. I just scored a 1000pound engine stand for $40. We have a garage full of sweet samples too. Anything any everything anyone could ever need, its great! I need engine degreaser, he called a rep and got me a few free cans. I needed grinding disks, he called 3M, bam, a whole box full. I need to get a job though them.

 

[Eagle]

If you want to spend lots of money on something your going to use a couple of times then go for it by all means. The ratachet type that clicks do lose calibration, at least get the one with a dial on it for $150.00. But the $25.00 wrench will be well within the tolerances given in any chart.

Agreed. Super-duper precision may be critical for things like the space shuttle, but when the FSM gives a range that spans 10% to 15%, and then you look at the same item in different year FSMs and see that what they call for has gone up or down by 25% even though it's the same part number -- that $25 Great Neck click release wrench is just fine. For most automotive work, including the engine, it is more important that the bolt torques be consistent (every fastener tightened the same) than that they be exact to precise reading that represents the center of the specified range. Let's face it -- if a range wasn't acceptable, they wouldn't publish a range.

With the click release torque wrenches, what most often kills the calibration is leaving the handle cranked up when you put it away. You are supposed to dial it back to zero for storage.

 

[langer1]

And even just as importaint is you need to read torque also for many things automotive. You can't read torque with a clicker. Micrometer, clicker style are good on the race track where you may have to pull heads between runs or for production work where speed is importaint.

So again the best for DIY is a 3/8 in-lb and a 1/2 ft-lb up to 180# torque bar type wrench.
BTW I have both but use the bar type the most.

 

[Talyn]

And even just as importaint is you need to read torque also for many things automotive. You can't read torque with a clicker. Micrometer, clicker style are good on the race track where you may have to pull heads between runs or for production work where speed is importaint.

So again the best for DIY is a 3/8 in-lb and a 1/2 ft-lb up to 180# torque bar type wrench.
BTW I have both but use the bar type the most.

Where on an XJ do you need to read torque (and not just set it) besides on the axles?

-Chris

 

[langer1]

Where on an XJ do you need to read torque (and not just set it) besides on the axles?

-Chris

Axles, pinion, steering box, transmission bands, to name a few.

 

[fizassist]

I have 3 beam-type wrenches, because I previously owned two cheap clickers that didn't click, resulting in 2 stripped holes.

Park TW-1: 0-60 in-lb, $32

Park TW-2: 0-600 in-lb (0-50 ft-lb), $35

Great Neck 150 ft-lb wrench from Autozone, $??. I'm not sure if they sell it anymore.