Just Another XJ on tons, coilovers, 42's, etc. Build

:thumbup:
 
Well...wasn't AS productive as I wanted to be this weekend thanks to being out all day yesterday hitting lunch and breweries with friend for his bday. :D

Got back to it today, and "finished" up the wiring needed to let her fire and run. Figured out the fuel pump pretty quick, and got some wires weatherpack fitting'd up.

Now...I can't get it to start (well actually at this point I'm just trying get the thing to turn over to prime the system with oil). Pulled the main plug so it wouldn't spark (though I don't have any fuel in the system right now).

When I go to try and get it to turnover...the starter hits....but no turnover. Kinda weird since it turned over for me many a time before.

Cranked the main pulley with a wrench to turn the motor over in case it had slightly seized up from sitting for a bit. Pulley and engine turn over just fine by hand...but once again when trying to start it...the starter just hits...then nothing.

Battery shows ~12.5V...wonder if it maybe just doesn't have the juice to fully turn the starter even though its showing that (optima yellow top I took out of my truck since the batteries couldn't crank it over). I might try pulling one of my truck batteries (Diehard Platinum) and see if that does the trick.

Any ideas?
 
And...





SHE BREATHES AGAIN!!!! The exhaust sounds fan-fricken-tastic :greensmok

Found the upstream O2 sensor, and got both sensors in.

Threw some wire together for the pump, primed the system, bled the air in the rail, and adjusted the regulator...fired up like it was nothing!

Fan isn't wired up again, but it will sitone tick below 210 at idle.

Header paint (incorrect paint) is burning off as I knew it would, as well as burning in the header wrap. Lots...of...smoke.

I am having one issue...my overflow tank for the coolant...the hose that is the vent (nothing on the end yet) I have running above where one's head would sit. It was puking fluid for a bit, so I might just have to live with a system with some air in it. So I just let it puke into a 5 gallon bucket until it stopped, and I'll monitor things from there.

SO pumped :D
 
Nice! :thumbup:

What would you have done if the CPS was bad...?

(oh wait, with how much you cut off, it looks like you can just reach down and bolt the spare in without getting out of the drivers seat :laugh:)
 
Nice! :thumbup:

What would you have done if the CPS was bad...?

(oh wait, with how much you cut off, it looks like you can just reach down and bolt the spare in without getting out of the drivers seat :laugh:)

Yeah, having a lot less sheet metal makes thing a weeee bit easier to get to...kinda. Still a LOT of stuff packed in though :D

PM coming your way Ken...might need your help on some wiring stuff.
 
Haven't gotten around to getting video of her running yet. :laugh:

One step forward...two steps back :rolleyes:

Filled up my t-cases...aaaaaand they're leaking. I think the 231 is leaking between the face plate and the clocking ring. The D300 just appears to be leaking out of one of the ball detent screw areas...at least that's what I hope.

Either way...I get to pull the entire thing back out, pull it apart...and reseal it. This time I'll fill the cases while on the bench to make sure they don't leak. Getting the doubler out is one thing...getting it back in SUCKS.

On the "good" side of things...I got my 14 ready to wrap up. Got the new yoke and crush sleeve eliminating spacer on, as well as replaced the pinion bearing I originally FUBAR'd. As well, I spent ~3 hours with a dremel and various grit bits to hone the pinion housing since it never was easy to get in. It not slides in and just need a few whacks with the deadblow to go the rest of the way in (i.e. slide the rest of the way into the pinion bearing. Pattern is good so now I need to torque all bolt on the pinion and carrier, clean up and install shafts, get the cover on and fill her up.

Was hoping to basically have her ready to drive on her own minus brakes this weekend, but that not happening since this weekend I need to pull and reseal the t-cases, reorganize and clean the garage with the shelving and cabinet I just got, and the big one...build a friggen chicken coop :laugh:

And that's not counting the list of other things I've been needing to get done this weekend...

On a good note...there is a chance at the end of this month I'll be working back in Fort Collins...NO MORE 2 HOUR COMMUTE PER DAY (for 6 months that is)!!! :party:
 
Been there done that :laugh:

My 241/205 setup was leaking between the two of them originally. AND I forgot to put the snap ring on the input shaft of the 241 so it would pop out of gear at will.

I'd rather drop a 300 than a 205 though.

The last time I had to drop it down to rebuild the trans mount, I just used a come-along strapped to a piece of 2x2 across the spreader bars in the interior to drop both t-cases at once. Got tired of using floor jacks and shit :laugh:
 
Been there done that :laugh:

My 241/205 setup was leaking between the two of them originally. AND I forgot to put the snap ring on the input shaft of the 241 so it would pop out of gear at will.

I'd rather drop a 300 than a 205 though.

The last time I had to drop it down to rebuild the trans mount, I just used a come-along strapped to a piece of 2x2 across the spreader bars in the interior to drop both t-cases at once. Got tired of using floor jacks and shit :laugh:

Yeah that is a slightly heavier combo :laugh:

It's not so much the getting it out, I can pull it off, bench press it down onto my stomach/chest, then slowly roll it to the floor. Its the getting it back in that is a NIGHTMARE. Tried using a jack...just kept wanting to fall off. I could bench press it...but not hold it long enough to have someone else (i.e. my girlfriend) to turn the output to try and get the splines aligned. I think this time I'm just going to spend a few buck and pick up a HF tranny jack to get it in...

Will be nice to have a fully cleaned organized garage again after this weekend. Going to be a LONG weekend of work.
 
Yeah I hear ya.

Can you drop a chain down from above? Like I said, using a come-along or some chainfall type setup made it really easy.

You can easily swing the thing back and forth and tip the front up/down to slide the thing in. Rather than having to roll a jack across the floor.

Granted I already had the come-along and some scrap tubing laying around.
 
Yeah I hear ya.

Can you drop a chain down from above? Like I said, using a come-along or some chainfall type setup made it really easy.

You can easily swing the thing back and forth and tip the front up/down to slide the thing in. Rather than having to roll a jack across the floor.

Granted I already had the come-along and some scrap tubing laying around.

Not exactly with how tight everything is and since I've got most everything else installed. Tranny jack with the case strapped to it I *think* should work. Biggest issue is making sure they can jack high enough to actually get the case in. That's all at the back of my mind as first priorities is to get it out, disassembled, and verify it fully seals before going back in.
 
I use a HF scissor trans jack for trans and tcase duties (231/241or combo). Works bitchin. Best 75 bucks spent for jobs like that, i can leave the ax15 and both tcases together and easily get it in and out of the jeep. Works great for dealing with my heavy ass skid plate too. Way faster than a floor jack when you use an impact gun to drive it.
 
I use a HF scissor trans jack for trans and tcase duties (231/241or combo). Works bitchin. Best 75 bucks spent for jobs like that, i can leave the ax15 and both tcases together and easily get it in and out of the jeep. Works great for dealing with my heavy ass skid plate too. Way faster than a floor jack when you use an impact gun to drive it.

Well luckily my friend Sam (zluster) has one, so i'll borrow it.

Another step back this weekend...more leakage. The bungs I put on my tranny pan are leaking with the NPT fittings screwed in. I'm going to use some sealant loctite as well as some copper washers and see if I can't get them to seal that way. If not...I'm going to have to do another fricken pan. As well, i'm getting a tranny leak between the transmission, and the adapter block thing that the np231 bolts to.

So first thing will be to pull the t-cases, then first thing to get worked on will be getting the transmission sealed. Once it's sealed and not having any issues i'll move onto the t-cases. Once those are sealed, filled with fluid and NOT leaking sitting on the bench i'll pop them back in. If it weren't for all this leaking the rig would move on its own (minus brakes). Had the yokes turning just fine...just would have had to throw on the driveshafts and button up the 14 bolt.

Most of this weekend was spent getting the garage cleaned up again and organized...so that I'll have clean work space for the cases.

Though this week I'll have to build a chicken coop...so we'll see where I can fit getting the cases done.

Ugh...fun adventures.
 
Well, after nearly 6 years....it drives!!!

:party: :party: :party: :party: :party: :party: :party: :party: :party: :party: :
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Got the brakes bled (kinda) and drove it around the block a few times :D

There is a bit of air in the front brakes (I can see quite a few large bubbles), but I can stop it even in low range.

My to do list still has quite a few items, but most should be done before I load it up onto the trailer this friday and head to Carnage Buena Vista!

To do over the next few evenings:

- Bleed the front brakes more to try and get the air out
- Paint and mount dash and center console pieces
- Get enough of the floor boards in to keep feet off stuff
- Get seats and harness bolted in
- Finish up new rad. overflow tank plumbing
- Mount winch
- Throw steering shaft clamps on
- Wire trans gauge and fan
- Hook up fan wires to switch
- Maybe throw some more pressure in the ORI uppers in the F&R

Little bit of a list...but I'm sure I can knock most of them out in one evening.

Skins and finishing of the interior panels will come in time :D
 
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