Had a couple of extra hours and wanted to toss up this write up for anyone doing a lunchbox locker on their rig. Im running a 90 D35 that has a C clip rear end with a lsd (cant use lunchbox locker with LSD carrier) so i picked up a d35 non c clip to use for this and swap the whole package into my rig. Anywho here it goes...
Started off with all my parts, D35 non C clip, Aussie Locker, Diff Guard by Superior MetalWorks and a full pack of smokes.
Pulled off cover and drained all the fluids and starded cleaning off gasket materials.
Make sure if there is any high spots due to bashing rocks you file them flat. Then take this time to go ahead and shove a can of brake cleaner thoughout the case to clean out any gummed up oil and any metal filings that may be in the case from wear.
Now that you got the carrier all squared away and draining some more go ahead and pull the axles. On the non C clip you have to pull 4 bolts through a hole in the axle flange. Pretty straight forward.
When i pulled off the brake drums this fell out. Its the spring and retainer for the pads. The retainer is quite mangled and the spring (on the other side) was partly ground away. Pretty much someone had some noisey brakes that were half way failing. Oh and the pin was totally gone.
Next you will need to pull out the cross shaft. All the places I looked at said it was a bolt but here it was a roll pin. So now even tho it says in the manual you need not to remove axles or carrier caps you do.
Here is a picture of the back side of the carrier. You must remove both caps and use a punch from the backside and push it all the way through.
I made myself a tool out of a crappy screw driver and cut the end off since all my punches were tapered. Also is a picture of the roll pin.
Let me note too that if you are doing this in a rig where the rearend is still in the rig. You might as well just yank the thrid member out and take it to the bench. Theres nothing holding it in at this point. Im actually going to do the install right here sense Ive got parts from another job on my benches.
Now you can slide the cross shaft out and all the spider gears will come right out. Now dont forget that there is a washer formed to the back of each gear. (4 gears 4 washers) the smaller gears and washers you can toss. The larger washers are the only thing you need to keep. So clean em off really good and inspect for exsesive wear or warpage.
Next you need to take the axle gears and put some axle grease on the back and on the front of them (used to hold things in place). Put the outer washer you saved from the old setup and put it on the back. Now slide them into the carrier and install the spacers. Then slide in the new cross shaft (dana 35 will come with new cross shaft). You need to at this time use a screwdriver to pry from the cross shaft to the spacer and squish all the parts tight. Then you need to use feeler guages to guage out between the shaft and the spacer. I dont have the numbers right here but mine came out to .011.
Now let me tell you this right now. The instructions here suck. Dont do what i did and put grease in those holes. They use the grease to hold the pins in before you install the peice into the carrier. Just listen to me dont do that. Instead grease the notched side of the cam gear and a little on the center part. install the spacer in the hole and put into case. My casting was kinda tight but i put the drivers in first then the pass. Make sure you put the spot where the cross shaft goes into position. I went through a whole delema on trying to get the pins back out once in carrier because the assembly was too tight to rotate. Major PITA since i lubed the crap out of those holes and the suction from the grease wouldnt let the pins back out.
Heres where mine was sitting and it wouldnt rotate but anywho. Now put in the pins in the slots. You then slide them over into the aposing hole with the small shank pointing back towards the slot. Put in each pin (4) and then pop in the spring. I found that putting the spring in the slot towards the wheel and then prying it over and letting it pop on the end of the pin worked best. You will see once you are doing it.
Started off with all my parts, D35 non C clip, Aussie Locker, Diff Guard by Superior MetalWorks and a full pack of smokes.
Pulled off cover and drained all the fluids and starded cleaning off gasket materials.
Make sure if there is any high spots due to bashing rocks you file them flat. Then take this time to go ahead and shove a can of brake cleaner thoughout the case to clean out any gummed up oil and any metal filings that may be in the case from wear.
Now that you got the carrier all squared away and draining some more go ahead and pull the axles. On the non C clip you have to pull 4 bolts through a hole in the axle flange. Pretty straight forward.
When i pulled off the brake drums this fell out. Its the spring and retainer for the pads. The retainer is quite mangled and the spring (on the other side) was partly ground away. Pretty much someone had some noisey brakes that were half way failing. Oh and the pin was totally gone.
Next you will need to pull out the cross shaft. All the places I looked at said it was a bolt but here it was a roll pin. So now even tho it says in the manual you need not to remove axles or carrier caps you do.
Here is a picture of the back side of the carrier. You must remove both caps and use a punch from the backside and push it all the way through.
I made myself a tool out of a crappy screw driver and cut the end off since all my punches were tapered. Also is a picture of the roll pin.
Let me note too that if you are doing this in a rig where the rearend is still in the rig. You might as well just yank the thrid member out and take it to the bench. Theres nothing holding it in at this point. Im actually going to do the install right here sense Ive got parts from another job on my benches.
Now you can slide the cross shaft out and all the spider gears will come right out. Now dont forget that there is a washer formed to the back of each gear. (4 gears 4 washers) the smaller gears and washers you can toss. The larger washers are the only thing you need to keep. So clean em off really good and inspect for exsesive wear or warpage.
Next you need to take the axle gears and put some axle grease on the back and on the front of them (used to hold things in place). Put the outer washer you saved from the old setup and put it on the back. Now slide them into the carrier and install the spacers. Then slide in the new cross shaft (dana 35 will come with new cross shaft). You need to at this time use a screwdriver to pry from the cross shaft to the spacer and squish all the parts tight. Then you need to use feeler guages to guage out between the shaft and the spacer. I dont have the numbers right here but mine came out to .011.
Now let me tell you this right now. The instructions here suck. Dont do what i did and put grease in those holes. They use the grease to hold the pins in before you install the peice into the carrier. Just listen to me dont do that. Instead grease the notched side of the cam gear and a little on the center part. install the spacer in the hole and put into case. My casting was kinda tight but i put the drivers in first then the pass. Make sure you put the spot where the cross shaft goes into position. I went through a whole delema on trying to get the pins back out once in carrier because the assembly was too tight to rotate. Major PITA since i lubed the crap out of those holes and the suction from the grease wouldnt let the pins back out.
Heres where mine was sitting and it wouldnt rotate but anywho. Now put in the pins in the slots. You then slide them over into the aposing hole with the small shank pointing back towards the slot. Put in each pin (4) and then pop in the spring. I found that putting the spring in the slot towards the wheel and then prying it over and letting it pop on the end of the pin worked best. You will see once you are doing it.
eace:
