milehilonewolf
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Centennial, Colorado
I wanted to post a tread of my recent install of the relatively new ECU chip by "Unichip".
I spoke one on one with Michael Timmons (503-640-7465) about the best chip for my application. He was very helpful and was able to custom map a chip for me based on the following:
1998 Jeep XJ, 4.0 I6
Air Force 1 Cold Air Intake (non-tapered 3" tube)
Rubicon Express 62mm Throttle Body
Gibson Exhaust Header
2.5 inch Cat Back Exhaust
The Unichip comes with two custom map's. There is map A and map B. Map A is less aggressive and can run on either 87 or 91 octane fuel. Map B is more aggressive and is designed to run STRICTLY on 91 octane fuel. I had my chip tuned to use Map B that way I could get the most out of the chip, this only means using 91 octane from now on.
Below are some photos of the install.... the reason I'm posting this tread is that the there is NO current Unichip offered strictly for the XJ. The one I installed had harness's designed for the TJ, so I thought I would pass along the process we used to make this fit properly in the XJ.
Enjoy!
What you get.... complete ECU, Harness, programmer, and cool keychain
Shot from above to show harness. NOTE the long harness in the top of the photo, this is a small switch that you can toggle between Map A and B. This switch can be ran into the cab to keep dry if you choose. I'm waiting a couple days to make sure everything is running properly before I run this inside the cab permanently.
This shows the fender minus the factory ECU, note the square black piece of rubber material. This is adhesive on one side and soft rubber on the other. This is not included with the kit, we added it to the back side of the ECU to prevent any rubbing... further pictures will explain why....
We mounted the programmer onto the backside of the factory ECU for lack of space inside the engine compartment. We used a couple pieces of velcro to secure.
Once the factory ECU was bolted in there was a clearance issue. The arrow shows the gap that was apparent with the programmer on... this is why we used a piece of rubber sheet to help protect any effects of vibration and friction.
We put in a small plastic spacer to help level out the ECU... with the bolts all back in, the fit was tight but very secure.
Next step was to secure the new ECU to the factory ECU. We are very lucky here because the factory ECU has a large flat spot the is perfect size for the new ECU. We used a couple strips of velcro to secure...
Here is the new and factory ECU's together...
Here is the whole unit bolted in with all the connections made. Using a couple zip ties we were able to synch up the loose harness's and snug them up closely to the ECU...
All buttoned up.... the air intake fits PERFECTLY between the engine shroud and the new ECU and harness.
I will be taking the misses on a day trip tomorrow to test out all the new parts. We will be hitting some city highway, mountain highway and some slow and easy 4 wheeling...
I will repost my impressions after this weekend.
I spoke one on one with Michael Timmons (503-640-7465) about the best chip for my application. He was very helpful and was able to custom map a chip for me based on the following:
1998 Jeep XJ, 4.0 I6
Air Force 1 Cold Air Intake (non-tapered 3" tube)
Rubicon Express 62mm Throttle Body
Gibson Exhaust Header
2.5 inch Cat Back Exhaust
The Unichip comes with two custom map's. There is map A and map B. Map A is less aggressive and can run on either 87 or 91 octane fuel. Map B is more aggressive and is designed to run STRICTLY on 91 octane fuel. I had my chip tuned to use Map B that way I could get the most out of the chip, this only means using 91 octane from now on.
Below are some photos of the install.... the reason I'm posting this tread is that the there is NO current Unichip offered strictly for the XJ. The one I installed had harness's designed for the TJ, so I thought I would pass along the process we used to make this fit properly in the XJ.
Enjoy!
What you get.... complete ECU, Harness, programmer, and cool keychain
Shot from above to show harness. NOTE the long harness in the top of the photo, this is a small switch that you can toggle between Map A and B. This switch can be ran into the cab to keep dry if you choose. I'm waiting a couple days to make sure everything is running properly before I run this inside the cab permanently.
This shows the fender minus the factory ECU, note the square black piece of rubber material. This is adhesive on one side and soft rubber on the other. This is not included with the kit, we added it to the back side of the ECU to prevent any rubbing... further pictures will explain why....
We mounted the programmer onto the backside of the factory ECU for lack of space inside the engine compartment. We used a couple pieces of velcro to secure.
Once the factory ECU was bolted in there was a clearance issue. The arrow shows the gap that was apparent with the programmer on... this is why we used a piece of rubber sheet to help protect any effects of vibration and friction.
We put in a small plastic spacer to help level out the ECU... with the bolts all back in, the fit was tight but very secure.
Next step was to secure the new ECU to the factory ECU. We are very lucky here because the factory ECU has a large flat spot the is perfect size for the new ECU. We used a couple strips of velcro to secure...
Here is the new and factory ECU's together...
Here is the whole unit bolted in with all the connections made. Using a couple zip ties we were able to synch up the loose harness's and snug them up closely to the ECU...
All buttoned up.... the air intake fits PERFECTLY between the engine shroud and the new ECU and harness.
I will be taking the misses on a day trip tomorrow to test out all the new parts. We will be hitting some city highway, mountain highway and some slow and easy 4 wheeling...
I will repost my impressions after this weekend.