Jeepm@n
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern, WI
I used them on the wheeling, weekend cruiser vehicle. I had no issues but I run a 245/70R16 tire which is not very big. I did plow 3 years with them though.
Important
- Thread starter bshaw
- Start date
I used them on the wheeling, weekend cruiser vehicle. I had no issues but I run a 245/70R16 tire which is not very big. I did plow 3 years with them though.
kmanxj5050
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reed City Michigan
I may try them. Hopefully by the time it needs changed again there will be a d60 taking its place.
WB9YZU
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Madison, WI
Wow, $60 for a .049! My 1st one was $6.00. The rest I bought at garage sales (in toys) and added tank kits.
My guess is that someday some of the crap I have laying in shoe boxes may actually be worth something
WB9YZU
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Madison, WI
Last hub I bought was at NAPA. I just priced them, they are $72 each.
Rev Den
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Plainfield, IL
ANY hub is better then a bad hub.
Rev
Rev
99SJ_Ex
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- La Crosse, WI
Rock Auto usually has timken hubs for around $75...
In other news, my jeep doesn't like full throttle anymore... Runs like the valves are floating and backfires several times...
Looking for a new 97-99 I6.... cheap...
In other news, my jeep doesn't like full throttle anymore... Runs like the valves are floating and backfires several times...
Looking for a new 97-99 I6.... cheap...
have you pulled the distributor?
idling problems
starting problems
and now backfiring under heavy load?
I think your ignition timing is way screwed, randomly, and that makes me think your distributor gear is fubar.
RedHeep
NAXJA #1499
- Location
- Landenberg, PA
I introduced two of my Marines to bacon sundaes at BK today.
I believe they have found the light.
I believe they have found the light.
WB9YZU
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Madison, WI
Golly, for a guy who wants to teach small engines, you are bailing awful fast there buddy
If you have a distributor, the 1st place I would start is the Rotor. I literally had one disintegrate on my way to COfest; I changed it at the campground. It ran fine at idle, and would only have problems under load. I pulled the cap off and all that was left of the rotor was white powder and the metal bits. The Rotor and Cap were 1,700 miles new.
99SJ_Ex
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- La Crosse, WI
The rotor is BRAND NEW. Just installed it 2 days ago, Cap is NEW, plugs and wires are NEW, I even used an Ohm meter and checked the wires before I installed them. I have now swapped the old sensors with the new thinking it was one of them, no change. Pulled the dist and everything is fine, gear is fine. Ohmed the coil, coil checks out.
I'm not bailing, I'm frustrated and angry that this motor is acting like this when everything checks out.
I also teach Autos, Intro to Robotics, Digital Electronics and Principles of engineering. I think I know how to use a mutli-meter, and a flow chart to check most of these systems efficiently. I've also ran multiple scan tools while driving and there's no indication as to what causes this issue, no codes thrown. It just does it.
I'm not bailing, I'm frustrated and angry that this motor is acting like this when everything checks out.
I also teach Autos, Intro to Robotics, Digital Electronics and Principles of engineering. I think I know how to use a mutli-meter, and a flow chart to check most of these systems efficiently. I've also ran multiple scan tools while driving and there's no indication as to what causes this issue, no codes thrown. It just does it.
Last edited:
Rev Den
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Plainfield, IL
Did it run bad before you changed all that? Sounds like a coil.
Rev
Rev
Last edited:
99SJ_Ex
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- La Crosse, WI
It was having hard start issues and rough idle when throttle was 'snapped'. I discovered the header to down-pipe bolts were loose which caused the gasket to shift and vent exhaust, no back-pressure, motor didn't want to run. I shifted the gasket, tightened the bolts proper and it ran just fine for 2-3 days. Now this happens. Bolts are still tight, no leaks.
WB9YZU
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Madison, WI
Don't know what "throttle was snapped" means.
However, it is odd. Most engines, including the 4.0L don't give a crap about a lack of back pressure. The ECM will compensate for the lean condition and except for being really loud, it will be just fine. Seen entire exhaust systems lost on the trail, and a XJ without an exhaust system will run, and very loudly.
A bad Cat O2 sensor will cause poor start, and run, but will do high rpm OK (and throw a code). If yours is a 99, it may not even have one.
Well if the Cap and Rotor have been recently been inspected and are good...
And you have good fuel pressure at the rail...
Since you had an exhaust problem when the problem occurred, maybe you have one again; except that it is plugged.
Last edited:
POLAR_JEEP_04
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ohio
Lack of back pressure can mess up valves...
Compression and leak down test it?
Compression and leak down test it?
POLAR_JEEP_04
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ohio
Head swap is easier then motor swap.
99SJ_Ex
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- La Crosse, WI
Snapped as in snap the throttle linkage WOT and let go immediately like if you were to stomp on the gas and then let off. The type of throttle you would use to 'bump' over an obstacle on the trail.
I had not considered an exhaust blockage, there is no muffler, just a straight pipe, so the next thing would be the CAT. But it should throw a code for that, and the 02 sensors are reading just fine. I was looking at those to make sure they hadn't gone bad.
I had not considered an exhaust blockage, there is no muffler, just a straight pipe, so the next thing would be the CAT. But it should throw a code for that, and the 02 sensors are reading just fine. I was looking at those to make sure they hadn't gone bad.
99SJ_Ex
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- La Crosse, WI
Thats what I'm thinking cause before I fixed the leak I would have to WOT to start and it would back fire some. Knowing my luck I probably burnt a valve or bent one.
Thinking if I can find a motor, I could drive this one 'nicely' till I finish stroking the other one...
WB9YZU
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Madison, WI
So you WOT, then let off? I suspect you have already checked your TPS alignment and voltages, so I won't bring that old chestnut up.
A blocked CAT may not throw a code. It has no feedback point, and unless the blockage causes another sensor to read out of range, you may not see anything.
All that technical knowledge, and you still don't know the difference between a motor and an engine
You'll get it figured out; I have confidence in you.
A blocked CAT may not throw a code. It has no feedback point, and unless the blockage causes another sensor to read out of range, you may not see anything.
All that technical knowledge, and you still don't know the difference between a motor and an engine
You'll get it figured out; I have confidence in you.
Last edited:
99SJ_Ex
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- La Crosse, WI
So you WOT, then let off? I suspect you have already checked your TPS alignment and voltages, so I won't bring that old chestnut up.
A blocked CAT may not throw a code. It has no feedback point, and unless the blockage causes another sensor to read out of range, you may not see anything.
All that technical knowledge, and you still don't know the difference between a motor and an engine
You'll get it figured out; I have confidence in you.
Ron, don;t start wtih me
motor is just quicker to spell out.
RedHeep
NAXJA #1499
- Location
- Landenberg, PA
Ron, don;t start wtih me
BS
You're on a keyboard and typing engine is one extra letter on opposite hands.
Typing motor requires asymmetrical keystrokes. It's harder to type.
