Ok before you start flaming hear me out. I know allot of you guys either do strokers or V8 swaps and a very few boost. I own a 99 Cherokee that I love to death. Not much done right now except dual battery kit and intake and some Mud tires. I also own a 2005 Dodge Neon SRT4. Way more modified. Probably putting down 260 may 270 to the wheels. So I was thinking what I wanted to do to my Cherokee engine wise. The Inline 6 is a great motor but after I thought about it for a while, I noticed my little SRT motor was better in every way. It of course gets better gas mileage. I get about 18 max out of the jeep the srt I get average of 25(this is all highway) sometimes a little higher if I really drive like grandma and stay out of the boost. Its better in power, it put our 230hp@5300 RPM compared to the XJ's 190hp@4600rpm. Also full torque comes lower and it has more, srt 250@2200 rpm the xj 225@3000. Also the engine weighs a lot less cuz of size. Also the stock srt4 motor can handle 400ish hp all day long and ask for more. So after thinking about this for a while. I started wondering about shoving one of these engines in my XJ (just thinking of course). I think this would be a bad ass swap. More power/better gas mileage/ easy as hell to mod/ and saves off like a 100 or so pounds. What do you guys think? Of course a swap like this would be hard as hell, need to fab motor mounts and getting all the ECU issues worked out. Also getting the AW4 to mate to the motor. But I thought it would be a good discussion piece. Maybe i'm just really crazy! [/font]
Idea: Sounds crazy but a SRT4 motor in a cherokee
- Thread starter RaiderX7
- Start date
Mr_Random
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, AZ
RaiderX7 said:
the gas mileage would be negligable, considering the engine will be going from the little neon to the heavier XJ, as for the power... well, it's a benefit, but is it enough for how much it may cost? SRT4's are supposedly really expensive, unless you plan on gutting the neon, I doubt that it would be very cost effective...
A stroker would probably cost less, and run similar MPG's (remember the SRT4 would be pulling more weight than it's used to!), the only difference is that once you stroke, the amount of power you can get out of it past stroking is significantly decreased. You could still boost, but not too much...
Yeah, I'm talking in circles.
In any case, do what you feel is cool, fun, and right for your application! If you think you can do it, then don't worry about what other people say!
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
The only real problem I see is going to be mounting the starter motor - it would require some heavy fab work.
Why? RED/4WD engines tend to mount the starter motor on the "right" side of the engine (as mounted,) while FWD has the engine on the "front" side (which, turned to put the belt end forward, usually means the "left" side.)
You'll have one Hell of a time finding a bellhousing to let you get away with that, or you'll have to fab up a mount of some variety on the "right" side of the engine to match the starter motor up with the pocket in the bellhousing.
Apart from that, I don't have any trouble with the idea - go for it! Do keep us apprised, and if you run into any stucks, feel free to ask...
Why? RED/4WD engines tend to mount the starter motor on the "right" side of the engine (as mounted,) while FWD has the engine on the "front" side (which, turned to put the belt end forward, usually means the "left" side.)
You'll have one Hell of a time finding a bellhousing to let you get away with that, or you'll have to fab up a mount of some variety on the "right" side of the engine to match the starter motor up with the pocket in the bellhousing.
Apart from that, I don't have any trouble with the idea - go for it! Do keep us apprised, and if you run into any stucks, feel free to ask...
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
RaiderX7 said:
Be sure to temper that slightly. I'm fairly sure you're going to put your rig on a diet (right? Right?) but it should also be borne in mind that a fully dressed AMC242 tips the scale somewhere just short of 600#. What's the SRT4 engine weigh? It may not be a full 200-300# less (although it is a 4 cylinder block with aluminum heads, right?) so the weight loss should be significant.
Don't expect to save too much weight in the transmission, but you can shave some down in the engine. If you convert it to 2WD, you can drop 60-80# for the transfer case, and if you put a beam up front, you'll drop another 100-150#.
Dave41079
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Nashville, TN
You could probably do a 4G63 a lot cheaper. Just a thought.
The Dodge 2.2/2.5L from kcars might be an option too, it has the starter on the backside of the engine (it would be on the right side when in rear drive position). You can put a DOHC head from a neon on the block (too get more power from it) without any major mods and it can take a fair amount of boost. The bare block without pistons/crank/head weighs less than 150Lbs (I could lift it without any help). These blocks are pretty easy to find too.
The stock Daytona Iroc R/T (turbo 2.2L) had a curb weight of 3134 Lbs and the engine put out 224-244hp/ 217 ftlbs while getting 19/27mpg, the NA Daytonas weighed a little under 3000lbs and got 24/34mpg from the 2.5L 100hp/135ftlbs.
If you are only using this for a DD then an NA might work and it will get you the best mpg, but the you'll probably wish you had the turbo. From the info I've seen on weight vs mpg, for every 200 lbs heavier a vehicle is you get 1 less mpg. So it might be possible to get 25-30mpg depending on if you turbo or not.
The stock Daytona Iroc R/T (turbo 2.2L) had a curb weight of 3134 Lbs and the engine put out 224-244hp/ 217 ftlbs while getting 19/27mpg, the NA Daytonas weighed a little under 3000lbs and got 24/34mpg from the 2.5L 100hp/135ftlbs.
If you are only using this for a DD then an NA might work and it will get you the best mpg, but the you'll probably wish you had the turbo. From the info I've seen on weight vs mpg, for every 200 lbs heavier a vehicle is you get 1 less mpg. So it might be possible to get 25-30mpg depending on if you turbo or not.
mitsumotors
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Winnipeg
i also am an xj/srt-4 guy, not so sure how well this would work but i can see why you would consider it. the srt-4 has one of the strongest most efficient motors and it would stand up to lots of high revs all day long. i love my srt-4 too much to rip it apart for the motor though. if you do this it will be very interesting though.
98XJSport
Destiny is the rising sun
- Location
- Western Maine
Also note that while a 4.0 may make peak torque higher, it has a flatter torque curve. So when the turbo is spooled it may have good torque, but drop out of boost and it may drop significantly.
Note that Im saying this without seeing dyno curves, just a generalization Ive noticed about small turbo engines. No torque without the boost. But once it's spooled, I bet it would go like a bat outa hell. Plus srt4 neons tend to get scooped up by the younger car crowd, and wrecked due to inexperienced drivers. Probably not that hard to find a wreck for a donor.
Note that Im saying this without seeing dyno curves, just a generalization Ive noticed about small turbo engines. No torque without the boost. But once it's spooled, I bet it would go like a bat outa hell. Plus srt4 neons tend to get scooped up by the younger car crowd, and wrecked due to inexperienced drivers. Probably not that hard to find a wreck for a donor.
mitsumotors
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Winnipeg
the good thing about the srt-4 motor is that it has a very small turbo so it spools very quickly, there is very little lag ang it, much like the 4.0, is a torque monster!!
x2, I thought about it when my friend was selling his 6 bolt. Like the srt-4, tons of aftermarket support and all that. I like the idea of turbo'd 4 bangers. MPG's when you want it and also be able to be damn quick. These engines rev a little higher than the 4.0 so maybe gears could help that out, if it's even of concern.Dave41079 said:
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
3 words: Coefficent of drag.
Your neon has far less than the XJ. Case in point...
The neon probubly equals around a .25 - .30
The XJ probubly equals around .60 - .70
These #'s are based on frontal area squared. I'll spare the long equation, but the main ponit is your neon requires FAR less hp at 70mph compared to your Jeep. About 40% less. Factor that into your MPG estimates, and your not all that far off from stock.
What would get you better gas mileage? Make the Jeep more aerodynamic!!!
Of course this is only 1 point of your swap, but just don't expect to get 25mpg when you swap that motor in. It would be a badass swap though! I thought about swapping a Supra 2JZ in my 99 someday.
Your neon has far less than the XJ. Case in point...
The neon probubly equals around a .25 - .30
The XJ probubly equals around .60 - .70
These #'s are based on frontal area squared. I'll spare the long equation, but the main ponit is your neon requires FAR less hp at 70mph compared to your Jeep. About 40% less. Factor that into your MPG estimates, and your not all that far off from stock.
What would get you better gas mileage? Make the Jeep more aerodynamic!!!
Of course this is only 1 point of your swap, but just don't expect to get 25mpg when you swap that motor in. It would be a badass swap though! I thought about swapping a Supra 2JZ in my 99 someday.
Last edited:
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Bryson said:3 words: Coefficent of drag.
Your neon has far less than the XJ. Case in point...
The neon probubly equals around a .25 - .30
The XJ probubly equals around .60 - .70
These #'s are based on frontal area squared. I'll spare the long equation, but the main ponit is your neon requires FAR less hp at 70mph compared to your Jeep. About 40% less. Factor that into your MPG estimates, and your not all that far off from stock.
What would get you better gas mileage? Make the Jeep more aerodynamic!!!
Of course this is only 1 point of your swap, but just don't expect to get 25mpg when you swap that motor in. It would be a badass swap though! I thought about swapping a Supra 2JZ in my 99 someday.
Could you at least PM me the "long equation?" I don't think I have it anywhere...
Come on man, wiki it!5-90 said:
where
Fd is the force of drag, ρ is the density of the fluid (Note that for the Earth's atmosphere, the density can be found using the barometric formula. Air is 1.293 kg/m3 at 0°C and 1 atmosphere), v is the velocity of the object relative to the fluid, A is the reference area, and Cd is the drag coefficient (a dimensionless constant, e.g. 0.25 to 0.45 for a car).
For our jeeps at 67mph (30m/s) I found this for the Cd*Area....close enough and this is in ft^2....for m^2...1.09m^2
11.71993 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Fdrag=.5*1.22*30^2*1.09=598 newtons which is around 135 pounds of force that you have to overcome. This would be at 2000rpm with a stocker in top gear. Not that anyone cares but if you kept WOT in top gear you'd have 456 pounds of force forward. This leaves you with 456-135-100(just a guess for rolling resistance)=221 pounds of force gettin you moving. Im gettin carried away though.
Anyways.....turbos are cool and i'll get one on something soon enough.
11.71993 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Fdrag=.5*1.22*30^2*1.09=598 newtons which is around 135 pounds of force that you have to overcome. This would be at 2000rpm with a stocker in top gear. Not that anyone cares but if you kept WOT in top gear you'd have 456 pounds of force forward. This leaves you with 456-135-100(just a guess for rolling resistance)=221 pounds of force gettin you moving. Im gettin carried away though.
Anyways.....turbos are cool and i'll get one on something soon enough.
Fast95Neon
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Elgin, IL
you dont need an actual srt motor...you can use any 2.4 out of a pt cruiser or stratus...its way cheaper and find some used srt pistons and rods for about $100 bucks...get the 2.4 block bored out.
it would be cheaper! and you can buy srt intercooler manifold and turbo for around the same price too....$100-200 bucks
it would be cheaper! and you can buy srt intercooler manifold and turbo for around the same price too....$100-200 bucks
