Iceland XJ Build

wil4thril

NAXJA Forum User
Location
US
Here is the build that I am planning for my 99 XJ 4.0 AW4/231. My goal is to drive across the middle of the Island in July/August. There will be just about every type of terrian: mud/rocks/water crossings/Lava feilds/glaciers. My "budget" is moderate but quality is the name of the game.

TnT Long Arms (Ordering Monday)
TnT Track Bar/Mount
RE 5.5 Springs (ZJ 4.5)
AA SYE or JB Super Short SYE (Preference?)
TW Shaft
BOR 4" Leafs or RE 4.5" (Shipping?) Anyone know how much leafs weigh?
Phat Jeeps Steering Conversion or Curry Replacement or HD Tie-Rod (Budget?)
Yukon or Superior 4.56 on the 30/8.25 Detroit in the rear
Superior/CTM 30 Shafts (Budget?)
JKS QDC
Brakes....Still trying to decide (Preference?)
5 x 33x10.5 Bogger or 34x10.5 LTB (New LTB's on the Swamper site?)
Black Steelies
Warn 9.0 Rc (54 Lbs!! but pesky budget)
Rear Tire Carrier with Jerry Can holder (Gas $7 a gallon!!)(Budget)

That is all the major parts. All the important "clean-ups" will be in there somewhere ie...snorkel/Vent line extension/Brake lines(done)/sliders..etc...

Shipping is what is killing me.....any opinions, thoughts, got ya's, on any part of the plan would be welcome. The parts need to be bolt-on and weight less than 70 lbs for shipping. Thanks.
 
I think the warn 9.0 RC winch only has a cable length of 50', which isn't much. I'd imagine youd want longer cable, possibly a 50' extension cable in case, and one of those winch anchors you can dig into the ground in case you're nowhere near big rocks or trees. I've never been to Iceland but I imagine parts of it are pretty sparse. Having a winch with short cable or with nothing to connect it to is pointless.

Chris
 
Aussie or lockright for the front, you'll need it. The Tabor winches are inexpensive and made by Warn, since the budget thing. Any other rig going to accompany you?
 
Yeah I will have a couple of Rubies with me. As far as the line length on the winch...there are no trees at all so a pull pal or some sort of anchor will be on that list.
 
the CTMs may be a bit overdoing it on the 30

the spicer 5-760x is a forged u-joint, and with yukon shafts you could stuff the front end with enough beef to stand up to 33's for a total of less than you would pay for just the 2 CTMs

Also, I second the motion of getting a cheaper winch with a longer cable, and an Anchor. you'll also want some kind of huge stinger in case the Ice should fall out from under you.

x2 on the front selectable locker, or truetrac.

Ability to air up tires is also a must.

you may also want to consider going with a wider tire than 10.50 for flotation ability(snow, not water)
 
Good point on the air? Any suggestions? OK the winch selection is based on weight. Most quality winches are 75-90 Lbs, I need less than 70 to even consider one. The 9.0 RC is 54, I can get extra line but I cannot get a winch sent in peices (or at least don't want to try). Good points though...keep them rolling....and thanks....
 
i dont know how this would do you but, make your purchase through one guy, or company, and have him ship it all together freight in a multi-pack or pallet and i think that would save you huge on shipping
 
I've seen quite a bit of footage involving some hard core Icelandic offroading...

I would try to find those guys and figure out where they source their goodies from..

:dunno:
 
wil4thril said:
Good point on the air? Any suggestions? OK the winch selection is based on weight. Most quality winches are 75-90 Lbs, I need less than 70 to even consider one. The 9.0 RC is 54, I can get extra line but I cannot get a winch sent in peices (or at least don't want to try). Good points though...keep them rolling....and thanks....

most companies will ship you a winch, fairlead, and cable all togehter... id bet if you asked them to ship them seperate that would save weight...

also look into synthetic line to save even more weight...

it the line isnt long enough, synthetic winch line extensions arent all that much, and weigh very little...

the other thought that i had was to think about making your rig lighter in any way that you can -
not using the rear seat?

as for weight on the BOR leaves - give John John a call and ask him - im sure he would be very helpful.

good luck!
 
Thanks for all the info/insight!! Buying items on the Icelandic economy is not an option. Their Kronur is killing the dollar. A burger costs $20, a beer $10-12, an Icelandic lift and 36's......are you sitting down......$20,000.....ahhahahhaha. Thanks again and feel free to keep the ideas rolling and I will post how I am doing....
 
Will, we have the same problem with freight costs. I worked out that it was actually cheaper to ship our Jeeps to the USA for a large number of mods than have the parts shipped over. Especially if you test it all out wheeling in the USA so the replacement parts are all used when your Jeep arrives back home.

Two downsides:-

You have to find someone to do all the work for you which will put up the cost and reduce the fun out of the build if you normally do all the work yourself.

It's too expensive to ship your old parts back so you either have to sell them quick on ebay or give them away.
 
I second the motion of putting together the shopping list and having someone ship it to you on one pallet, that would probably reduce end cost. perhaps a reputable outlet like 4wheelparts could put it all together for you, and since you are ordering it all at once they may be able to offer a discount and/or help with shipping, I know I would if you were to order that much stuff from me and I ran a business!
 
Will, this sounds like a hoot. Always wanted to go play with the guys out on the ice, AND the volcanic hill climbs! Now that looks like fun!!!

Let us know if there's anything we can do. I can throw whatever small parts we can get for you on the belly pan for the Y-Link if needed. Rockstomper is right down the road and I can probably get the synthetic winch line if you need it and toss it on.

I second an opinion above, skip the CTM and go with the Spicer 760's and good shafts. I'd also look into a 13.50 or even a 15.50 wide tire.

Got any hookups with the AGE or LOX guys? They may be able to let you "borrow" a 20lb CO2 cylinder for the trip. That would be an excellent source of air. I wouldn't leave the base without air, you'll be running tires at really low pressure for max floatation and the risk of running a tire off the bead is real.

Bob
 
I would look into mile marker winches. They are selling their electric winches CHEAP because of a new agreement with the US armed forces making hydraulic winches. They are practically giving them away at their cost. You can get a 1200 for under 400 if you look. They weigh about average i would say.

As for the SYE i would go with the AA. They make top top notch products. No one i have ever spoken to has anything bad to say about theirs. I have one comming soon. :)

Deffinatly consider a locker for the front. Go ausie.

As for the gears deffinatly go Yukon. I love that stuff.


i just noticed also.. you didnt say anything about an after market bumper.. You need one for a winch.

Good luck. :D
 
OK the 760's and Yukon shafts/gears sound like the way to go. Tom Woods said they would send me an AA SYE and DS when I was ready so that is covered. Wider tires are probably the way to go but, I was looking at the Swamper site and the 10.50's have a deeper tread depth, higher load weight and are availble in 8 ply on the 16's. Any road you travel here is BAD so the duablity is key. Keeping the front open was driven by the fact I want an OX but I am not sure the Icelandics will be able to put that in. I have a guy who can do gears (hopefully) but I don't want to push it. Is the Aussie a locker or Limited? Tru Trac is another option. I do have a front JCR Bumper and sliders.

will

Bob - sorry for the confusion on the phone Thursday....first big purchase from up here. I will call Monday before I fly. And good call on the AGE dudes...
 
This is an interesting build. I like the ideas. I would try to find a way to have some kind of power inverter available for use. They come in handy for alot of situations. Also a high amp alternator and some good wiring for running extra lights and many other things.

I would try to go with the OX locker. If you are already installing a locker I would go with the OX and have the reliability of being able to pull a cable and have the front locked. They are a basic install with running some cable and mounting the lever.

HTH

Good luck with your build.

Kim.
 
I would try to find a way to have some kind of power inverter available for use. They come in handy for alot of situations.

Done and the alt is on the "extras" list. I have read that there is some grinding that needs to be done fo the OX and that it was a tuff install. That is why I am hesitant. Thanks.
 
Interesting stuff!! I wish you luck on your adventure!!
Perhaps lining up some sponsorship in advance could have cut cost reduce
the rush to get parts......Maybe some video link in exchange or something,
with the ammount of 4WD shows showing up on our TV sets.....perhaps
A&E or The OutDoor Network would have liked to shoot the trip & sponsor.
Who knows.........

Good luck, and dont bother with the TruTrac...
 
apparently there is a differing opinion about the truetrac, all I know from my experience is that it has been a reliable maintenance free traction differential that locks up positively enough to break stock d30 shafts. if it slips just apply a little brake and you're on your way. and there is no need for synthetic diff fluids, or traction modifiying additives etc....oh and its about half the price of the ox-locker, which is also a very formidable unit, but takes some initial adjustment, and cable routing. Find an online description of the Ox installation and pass it on to your icelandic friends for review to see if they can handle it. If you can afford it, and they can do it go that route, but you should coustom fab up some cable protectors to keep rocks from hurting it.

oh, and see if Tom woods can get you the spicer forged 1310 replacement joints, I don't recall the p/n at the moment but they are the same price and 30% stronger. the only downside to these is that they are non greasable and may not live as long in a daily driver, but they won't break easily.
 
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