i want a mig welder for christmas

[streetpirate]

im going for 110v, lincoln (or century) miller (or hobart), gas or flux,

my questions are duty cycle and amps.

whats the normal duty cycle on a 110v? around 20%? have no idea
what dows the duty cycle mean to me?

how many amps am i going to need for jeep fabrication? bumpers, cages, axle brackets, etc...

 

[old_man]

Before everybody jumps on you for wanting a 110v mig, let me say I used a Sears (Century) 110v mig for 25 years. I welded everything I build in that time with the 110v mig. It can be done and done well if you have the skill and the time to wait on the duty cycle. Welding a bumper got to be a pain. I would weld 8-10" of heavy bead, then have to wait 10 minutes for it to cool down.

I got rid of it when I scored a nice Lincoln 220v. This last week, I wished I still had the 110v mig. I was trying to do automotive sheetmetal as I have done for years, but the lowest setting on the Lincoln was simply too high. It welds the heavy stuff like butter, but on the thin stuff, I am seriously thinking of buying another 110v mig.

 

[streetpirate]

***

 

[streetpirate]

so if i want to do much sheet, i should get a 90-115 amp (?) 110v mig and just have patience when doing bumpers, maybe buy a used 220 down the road.

also be nice to have a portable welder, not just the big 'ol 220 at home

 

[Skullver]

Before everybody jumps on you for wanting a 110v mig, let me say I used a Sears (Century) 110v mig for 25 years. I welded everything I build in that time with the 110v mig. It can be done and done well if you have the skill and the time to wait on the duty cycle. Welding a bumper got to be a pain. I would weld 8-10" of heavy bead, then have to wait 10 minutes for it to cool down.

I got rid of it when I scored a nice Lincoln 220v. This last week, I wished I still had the 110v mig. I was trying to do automotive sheetmetal as I have done for years, but the lowest setting on the Lincoln was simply too high. It welds the heavy stuff like butter, but on the thin stuff, I am seriously thinking of buying another 110v mig.

I have a Lincoln PM 215(220V) and a Clark 140en(110V) and I would have to say that the lincoln is way better for doing sheetmetal, I tried the 110 first and just had no control, even with .023" wire I was burning through and the welds were ugly. I changed the drive rolls and loaded up a spool of .023" into the lincoln and was thoroughly impressed with the results(welding 18-guage cold roll to the 20-gauge floor of the xj, it is just so much smoother than the 110V, it is all about the quality of the current as well as duty cycle IMO, I don't think I'll ever use the 110V welder again unless there is no 220V access. I am no welding expert by any means but thought I would share my experiences.
Good luck

 

[streetpirate]

you may not be an expert but ive seen your jeepspeed build, you've got some serious fab skills.


so pretty much, if i can talk the buying party into bucking up for the 220v i should do it?

im going to want to ask for the 175-ish model of any good brand, right?
(really wanting to go miller, its that made in usa thing)

 

[XJ_ranger]

if you are putting material onto an XJ that cant be welded with a 110... then that material is too thick

 

[w_howey]

I've got an HF(110) it works great!!!! Just have to adjust the feed mechanism once in a while.

Will never buy any Lincoln product EVER.... Way,way too many problems for what was paid for it. The Millers we have at work quite well.

 

[WTF]

You want a 135-140 welder in the 110 variety. it'll weld 1/4" with good prep and the right settings.

As Ranger said, If you're welding anything thicker that this class machine can handle onto an XJ, you're likely doing something wrong...

I picked up a used Lincoln 135 and it does what I need it to just fine. I've only hit the duty cycle on a very few occasions(I guess I fab slowly?) I like the Lincoln and its really convenient to be able to run to Lowes or Home Depot for consumables on a Sunday afternoon.

If I were buying a welder from a store, I would go Hobart 140 for the value quotient.

Miller's are nice, arguably the best, but spendy; for me, I couldn't rationalize dropping that kinda cash in this case unless you have nothing else to spend money on or are going to be using it daily...

 

[streetpirate]

do your machines have variable voltage selection, or set voltage settings?

 

[streetpirate]

i just about creamed myself
http://www.weldersource.com/907312.html
im going to cross my fingers that santa really loves me.

 

[XJ_ranger]

do your machines have variable voltage selection, or set voltage settings?

go variable or go home!

 

[streetpirate]

totally, the only non-variable ive used was a $80 HF special, it was so sweet, it had high, low, and i think 4 wire settings. not much to compare to.

the miller 180 sounds like the machines i learned on, but i remember the machines i used to use had digital voltage readout.

 

[Stumpalump]

i just about creamed myself
http://www.weldersource.com/907312.html
im going to cross my fingers that santa really loves me.

Thats the one I bought last month. You need 220V outlet in your shop but thats the only drawback. It works fine and is easy to use. You won't regret buying a nice welder because you will have it and use it for years. Maybe the last one you ever buy so get as nice a one as you can get.
As far as talking the old lady into it, you need to study up and drool over the 2500-3500 doller welders and tell her all about them. Then show her what a great deal you can get on a Millermatic 180.Tell her you want to make safe parts and a small welder may leave weak dangerous welds. Show her the price of a couple of bumpers and tell her the welder will pay for itself on the first project but a cheap welder would make bumpers that might fall off in a wreck. Good luck and Merry Christmas!

 

[HTeK]

Do yourself a favor and buy a welder once.

That miller 180 is a very nice machine for the price. I built my jeep with a buddies mm180. For only a couple bucks more, i just bought a Hobart 210. It was a tossup for me, but the extra power, spoolgun option (i.e. can weld aluminum), and all the great things being said about the new Hobart 187/210 pushed me in that direction.

I can honestly say that this welder will weld 99% of anything that might come into my garage. And assuming its a quality product it should last the next 25 years.

A 110 mig has its place, but I am pretty sure that most folks hit the limitations of a 110 within a few years.

Just my opinion... either way, buying your own welder, regardless of what it is - is awesome. Now when's my gonna show up?!?!

-jm

 

[Roxtar]

I used a Lincoln 135 for a year.
It does a surprisingly nice job as long as you keep it within it's limits.
One advantage of 110V is being able to take it with you to events.
Instant popularity.

For daily production, however, there's still no replacement for displacement:

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

Thats the one I bought last month. You need 220V outlet in your shop but thats the only drawback. It works fine and is easy to use. You won't regret buying a nice welder because you will have it and use it for years. Maybe the last one you ever buy so get as nice a one as you can get.
As far as talking the old lady into it, you need to study up and drool over the 2500-3500 doller welders and tell her all about them. Then show her what a great deal you can get on a Millermatic 180.Tell her you want to make safe parts and a small welder may leave weak dangerous welds. Show her the price of a couple of bumpers and tell her the welder will pay for itself on the first project but a cheap welder would make bumpers that might fall off in a wreck. Good luck and Merry Christmas!

Yup, get the best you can afford!! My wife knows absolutely nothing about welders BUT for that kind of cash she WOULD research it and check me if I tried that!:rtm: :rtm: :roflmao:

 

[Harlee&Tahoe]

im going for 110v, lincoln (or century) miller (or hobart), gas or flux,
my questions are duty cycle and amps.
whats the normal duty cycle on a 110v? around 20%? have no idea

what dows the duty cycle mean to me?

Duty cycle is when welder is at full power and 20% would run 2min. out of every 10min. (can get frustrating) but gives beer time

how many amps am i going to need for jeep fabrication? bumpers, cages, axle brackets, etc...

This question is exactly what is keeping me awake at night! (searching):banghead:
I've been trying to exhaust all searches, however since we both are on the same quest. I'll join instad of starting new thread.

What is the thickest material I'll need to weld for the Jeep?
I have many projects(dreams) I'd like to accomplish such as bumpers, uniframe strengthining, exocage, rockers, thinking...(dreaming again)

Last beads I've laid were high school, until recently, I borrowed friends Lincoln 100. Guy at local weld shop called it a "throwaway" Worked fairly well on 3/8" flat stock to 1/8" gas tank skid with flux core. Flicked boogers at first ended with respectable beads.

I am into buying things once and also quality, is 220v going to make a big difference? I found a couple 180's for around 700ish.
Would like the portability and price of 110v model.

Then there's the artistry of TIG which, the more I read the more I'm intrigued with stick and plasma options(plasma szszs...).
I do like full control.

Sorry, starting to ramble . It's late.

 

[Phil]

What is the thickest material I'll need to weld for the Jeep?
I have many projects(dreams) I'd like to accomplish such as bumpers, uniframe strengthining, exocage, rockers, thinking...(dreaming again)

Short of an axle swap, I see no reason to ever add anything bigger than 1/4" to an XJ...and short of lower control arms and an axle swap, I see no reason to ever add anything over 3/16" to an XJ.

I'd go 220V anyhow. Millermatic 180 or comparable is fine for Jeeps.



TIG is beautiful, fun, precise, and there's no way I'd ever chose a TIG machine to be my only welder for the Jeep. A hack like me can sneak a MIG torch in where I can't get a TIG torch and rod, it's hard to work a foot pedal when you're lying on your back under the Jeep, and filling gaps with TIG wire sucks.

 

[mjdriver]

so I just want to recap something, I have been looking at some of the same 220 welders you guys are talking about, because I have had several people tell me to buy more welder than you think you will need.

So with that said if I get a good 220 welder (hobart187?) can I weld the smaller sheetmetal that is so common on jeep unibody's?