I really sold out this time

Added a Poly Performance B-Pillar kit to the JK today. It's 2 1.75OD .120 Wall DOM legs that run from the floor to the stock cage just behind the factory b-pillar. There is a frame tie-in underneath along with the harness bar. I added in a pair of tubing couplers so that I can remove the harness bar easily if it proves to be in the way during daily use.

Gutted the jeep
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Welding it in to the Jeep after finish weld and paint was done on the add-in.
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After getting the jeep back together
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Here is the frame tie-in. I painted the back side of it and the frame with weld through primer. After this picture was taken I blasted it with some Rustoleum truck bed liner. It's the same stuff I've used on my bumpers and the rest of the cage addition.

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I just got my shipping notification for the rest of my cage add ons. I've got a Poison Spyder Customs C-Pillar kit and their front trail cage kit on the way.
 
After cracking a tail light and realizing that unlike the previous Wranglers the JK uses a unique tail light that costs 120$ from the stealership (cheaper aftermarket replacements are still 80$) I decided it was time to change the method in which light is emitted from the back of the Jeep. I had 2 goals in mind for the change. Goal 1 was to have something less likely to be damaged in the first place. Goal 2 was to have something more easily (and cheaply) replaced in the event it was damaged.

I got the kits from RockRidge4WD minus for less than a single replacement tail light. I got the kit minus the LED stop/turn light and decided to instead use standard incandescent ones so that I wouldn't have to deal with adding in load resistors to keep the turn signals happy. The incandescent units are also cheaper to replace and can be found at any truck stop, parts store, or trailer supply facility across the US.

Step 1 was modifying the factory tail light harness. I soldered the lead for the 4" grommet mount tail light to the stock harness. For the LED reverse light I used spade connectors because the wiring on the reverse light isn't removable from the light itself. This way if the reverse light goes bad I can just crimp on new spade connectors and go.



Step 2 was modifying the tub a bit. There are raised section where the factory tail light screws onto the tub. I used a 1" hole saw to remove the bumps.



Then I grabbed the air saw and finished cutting away pesky sheet metal.





After the cutting is done simply clamp the plate in place and drill your mounting holes. Use the bolts provided to attach it to the Jeep and then install the lights. The reverse light is stud mounted and the tail light is a standard 4: grommet mount light. I taped off the tub and painted the part under the plate with bed liner to cover up the exposed metal where cutting/drilling occurred. I figured the bed liner would also help seal out water from getting behind the plate.

All done and ready to impress the ladies. :D





 
Nice! Now ya gotta get rid of that gay license plate mount so it won't damage any trees or rocks as you drive by........:D
 
That is actually next on the list. I found a sweet mount online that goes in the stock location but wraps around the tub, unfortunately its for TJ's and not JK's. All the ones for the JK either put on the tail gate where the spare tire carrier would go (requiring you to not run a spare) or mount in the center of the wheel on the spare tire. I can't run mine in the center of the spare tire though because of my RotoPax can mount. I think I'm just going to fabricate one myself. It'll either wrap around the tub where the plate normal mounts or it'll hand below my RotoPax mount. I haven't fully decided.
 
So the deal has been made and early Saturday morning I'm heading to Vegas to pick up a Hemi drivetrain that came out of a JK. Radiator, wiring harness, a/c lines, PCM, etc are all there so all I'll need to drop it into my JK is the mounting brackets, exhaust, and a battery box. JSS also has an improved fan shroud and fan setup that I'll be getting as well. The plan is to get those things over the next few months and swap it all into my rig this summer. I've talked to Todd over at JSS and he's going to take care of putting my VIN into the PCM for me, and I'll be getting all the other bits through him as well. Robbi at MoTech has the powertrain and is making me a super deal on it helped by the fact that I'm transporting some axles back here to CO for him. Needless to say I am super excited and really looking forward to getting this bad boy into my Jeep. This saves me a lot of money and puts me into a V8 swap about 2 years ahead of schedule, and I even get to keep both my kidneys.



 
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Bitchin.....


Can't wait to see it finished.
 
Awesome, how'd you find someone pulling a hemi from a JK? Insurance total being parted out?
 
Essentially, the guy is from Corpus Christie, TX and paid JSS out of California to do the Hemi conversion. It was an earlier install and the computer programming apparently sucked. This is per Todd who owns JSS. After almost 3 years of different computers and the owner not liking how warm the Hemi's like to run he decided to go to an LS. The non-VVT Hemi's are the hardest to keep cool in the JK. It would be fine while driving but climb as high as 230deg while crawling or sitting at idle. JSS was still playing around with different mechanical fan setups and the software was also to blame. The latest computer was given to the owner after he had already delivered the Jeep to MoTech for the LS.

Talking with Robbi from MoTech the Jeep ran and drove very well with that new computer, and its the same computer programming JSS currently uses. It did however like to get warm at idle or while crawling. Robbi blames the mechanical fan, location of the engine in the engine compartment, and lack of any kind of fan shroud. He is very confident that I'll be able to get the swap done and running very well if I get the engine located better and run an electric fan with a proper shroud. The owner of the JK was a 75yr old man with no ability to really mess with that kind of stuff, nor the patience for it. He finally got to a point where he just wanted the Jeep to be "right" and Robbi was able to do that with the LS swap. The 5.3 and 6L80E run a lot cooler stock and fit in the JK a bit better. They're also more efficient and that 6L80 really allows you ti make use of every bit of the power the 5.3L makes.



The engine and trans right now have 20,000 miles on them and both Robbi (who is against Hemi's and was paid to do the LS swap) and Todd (who did the Hemi swap and thinks they're overall better than LS swaps) agree that they run really well and will work great. Robbi has some theories on making it run cooler and I agree with some of them, although I don't agree that it absolutely has to have an electric fan. JSS has a new fan shroud and a different fan they use now, Todd is very confident that with them the overheating issues are over with.

I've read about people having troubles keeping the 5.7's cool no matter if Jeep Speed Shop, Burnsville Offroad/Dakota Customs, or AEV did the swap. I talked with the guys who used to do Hemi swaps at Pollard Jeep (Boulder Jeep dealership) and they said what they eventually figured out was the factory electric fan from the 3.6L JK's work very well and draw more cfm than the electric fan from the 3.8L JK.

Here is my take on it:
The guy was frustrated and I would be too, he dropped 13K$ on a Hemi swap and it wasn't working right or as expected. JSS was helping him but it takes a while to get things perfect, especially on the software side and from halfway across the country. During this frustration he got to drive an LS Jeep and was really impressed, he had the money, so he made the move. He never did drive it with the final computer in it, he wasn't interested at that point either according to Robbi who was willing to try and sort out the Hemi for him and save the guy some coin. By that time the guy wanted and LS, end of story.

Software issues aside not having a fan shroud with a mechanical fan is a huge problem. Electric fans need them too but as they generally mount very close to the radiator they can get by w/o. A mechanical fan sits back from the radiator, not having a shroud means the fan is drawing air from around the radiator and not through it. This is especially the case when your not moving at a speed sufficient to force air through the radiator on its own, so while sitting at idle and crawling on the trail.

The computer I'm getting is the newest one and Todd will be rewriting it for my VIN. I will also be getting his new fan shroud and mechanical fan setup. Between that and the upgraded radiator that it comes with I'm confident it'll run fine and maintain tolerable temps on the trail. If it does get too warm for comfort then I'll make some changes.

I'm getting this setup for pretty damn cheap, as in I'm looking to be into this swap for about 4G's total running and driving. I've also been a mechanic my entire adult life, I am very confident I can make it work and work well. Worst case scenario I might have to go with different programming and a different radiator/fan setup. At about 4G's I've got a long time before I get to where it would've been cheaper to start from scratch with a salvaged engine/trans and fresh install kit. I was figuring 9-10G's to do the LS or Hemi swap, so I'm going to into it for a lot less.

Neither Robbi or Todd think I'll have any issues anyways. Robbi thinks I should go with an electric fan and different radiator, Todd thinks I'll be fine with their new shroud and fan setup. I'm going to try it Todd's way first and if it doesn't work out then I'm going to contact Dakota Customs and get their radiator. I'll combine it with a 3.6L JK fan and see how that does.

As for engine mounting location, JSS and AEV both put the engine in the exact same spot. BOR/Dakota Customs mounts the engine farther back and lower in the frame. The nice thing about that is the weight is lower and more centered, also there is some airflow advantages that way to help with cooling. The drawback is you're modifying the firewall and your driveshafts will need to be changed. There is also no off the shelf engine skid plates out there for it.

Mounting it like JSS and AEV do there is no need to modify the firewall and the stock driveshafts are retained. I can replace my engine skid with a Hemi one from TNT that'll work perfectly with the rest of the aluminum belly system I already have. An added benefit is the guys from Pollard, Trail Jeep, and Northridge are all here locally and always used the AEV installs. Running a similar setup means it'll be familiar to them if I need their help after the swap.
 
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RoR... It's like Frank wrote that product description just for you, dutch.
 
It was out of another JK that had had a Hemi swap done. The engine/trans was originally from a 2008 Ram Truck. The wiring harness and computer are the correct ones to run in my 2008 JK.
 
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