I decided to waste some DOM yesterday...

Do you have to use DOM or could you get away with mild steel granted it would be the right thickness and reinforced? I was thinking of getting a stick of 1 3/4".
 
those do too, if you read the description they come with clear covers, the black ones shown are optional and cost extra. ;) thats a pretty decent price for HIDs.
In fact,Kragan/Checker/Schuck's is priced around $110-$120.By the way,on the subject of lights,Summit has Hella 500's for $59.50/2 lights,haness,etc. right now
 
Do you have to use DOM or could you get away with mild steel granted it would be the right thickness and reinforced? I was thinking of getting a stick of 1 3/4".
DOM is mild steel. "DOM" refers to "Drawn Over Mandrel", the final forming process used to make the tube.

Chromoly, or Chrome Molybdenum Alloy Steel(stronger alloy) is also drawn over mandrel in the finishing process.
 
Now that I look at different bumpers it's hard to say whether I want to make a tube bumper or a heavy duty style bumper out of like 2x6", kinda like a basic AJ's Offroad bumper. I'm wondering if they're both about the same amount of strength granted the tube bumper would be reinforced on the sides and wherever else.
 
I thought DOM was more expensive though?
I think we're talking about 2 different things here.
Are you talking about steel pipe?(water pipe/black pipe)
Almost all piping starts out as a long flat sheet. It's rolled and seam welded. Schedule 40 pipe(water pipe) is painted and left that way. As a further manufacturing step, the pipe can be drawn through a die, over a mandrel, or both to finalize the OD/ID etc. to a much closer tolerance. This also work hardens the steel and normalizes the weld area.
I shamelessly stole this from wikipedia 'cause I'm too lazy to think/type it all out myself:
Tubing is a pipe or hollow cylinder for the conveyance of fluids (liquids or gases). The terms "pipe" and "tubing" are almost interchangeable, although minor distinctions exist — generally, "tubing" implies tighter engineering requirements than "pipe". Both "pipe" and "tube" imply a level of rigidity and permanence, whereas a "hose" is usually portable and flexible. Tubing and pipe may be specified by standard pipe size designations, e.g., nominal pipe size, or by nominal outside or inside diameter and/or wall thickness. The actual dimensions of pipe are usually not the nominal dimensions: A "1-inch" pipe will not actually measure 1 inch in either outside or inside diameter, whereas many types of tubing are specified by actual inside diameter, outside diameter, and/or wall thickness. There are many industry and government standards for pipe and tubing.

Manufacture
Main article: Tube drawing

There are three classes of manufactured tubing: seamless, as-welded, and drawn-over-mandrel (DOM).

* Seamless tubing is produced via extrusion or rotary piercing.
* Drawn-over-mandrel tubing is made from cold-drawn electrical-resistance-welded tube that is drawn through a die and over a mandrel to create such characteristics as dependable weld integrity, dimensional accuracy, and an excellent surface finish.
For our uses, what we refer to as:
"Pipe" : What you get at home depot. It's supposed to be 1025 mild steel, as welded/rolled. 2 basic types: "Black" painted/coated pipe and "galvanized"- zinc coated(silver) Pressure rated, not tested for bending/torque. etc. - Cheap
"DOM": Mild steel, usually 1025 alloy, drawn over mandrel Stronger and dimensioned accurately( a 1.5" tube will measure 1.5") - More expensive
"Cromolly": Usually 4130 steel alloy. It's all drawn over mandrel. -Way more expensive. You're paying for the alloy.

If what you're asking is can you make a bumper out of pipe? Yes. Will people laugh at you for it? Probably. Will it be less expensive. Yes. Will it be as strong? No. Will it make a difference on a tube bumper? Probably not.

Last note:
When you buy tube, you specify OD and wall thickness.
When you buy pipe, you spec nominal ID, and it's all 1/8 - 3/16 thick. You get no choice.
 
I was thinking of HREW I think. I guess I'll have to go with DOM, hopefully they won't try to charge me like 80 bucks a stick like they have in the past. I'm not trying to be cheap but I don't have too much money to spend, and when I went to IMS they wanted pretty much the same amount of money for materials as it would cost for me to buy a bumper already made.
 
does IMS carry dom?
i was in there picking up aluminum for work, and didnt see any dom, maybe they had it in back?

80$ a 'stick' isnt expensive for dom, i recently paid $100 for a 24" stick of 1 3/8 x 250wall
 
I'm not sure but pretty much to make a tube bumper it would've cost me well over 200 bucks IIRC. A regular bumper would've cost me much more than that. I'm really confused, a friend just told me to go in and buy mild steel tubing, apparently that's what he did.
Everyone tells me to go in there and look at the remnants or precuts section, and how they get good deals. So far I haven't really gotten any good deals.
 
I think that I've generally heard HREW referred to as mild or welded seam,and DOM as always being stronger and harder to bend,second to cromo.Just the more consistent wall thickness of DOM reduces potential weak spots in the tube,making it stronger.I have heard also of pipe sized tubing which could possibly be used with the HF bender.Just remember that tubing is structural and pipe is for poop.:)
 
I think that I've generally heard HREW referred to as mild or welded seam,and DOM as always being stronger and harder to bend,second to cromo.Just the more consistent wall thickness of DOM reduces potential weak spots in the tube,making it stronger.I have heard also of pipe sized tubing which could possibly be used with the HF bender.Just remember that tubing is structural and pipe is for poop.:)
Yeah you're pretty much saying what I wanted to, I was thinking of HREW because that's what I wanted to use on a tube bumper. I just didn't think of the term at the time.
 
In fact,Kragan/Checker/Schuck's is priced around $110-$120.By the way,on the subject of lights,Summit has Hella 500's for $59.50/2 lights,haness,etc. right now

Wal mart has them for that price or a bit cheaper around here.
 
Now that I look at different bumpers it's hard to say whether I want to make a tube bumper or a heavy duty style bumper out of like 2x6", kinda like a basic AJ's Offroad bumper. I'm wondering if they're both about the same amount of strength granted the tube bumper would be reinforced on the sides and wherever else.


Depends on the look your going for and what your building your jeep to do. A simple tube bumper is pretty light.
 
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