How to stop unibody flex/torsion

If you have to be told why mounting a cage over your carpet is stupid, I'm not sure what to say really. Here goes...

Would you build a house by building a foundation, putting a layer of old mattresses over the top of it, and then building the frame over that?

Didn't you just describe earthquake resistant housing :gag:

Blistovmhz - It's a comon enough symptom when crossed up. The hatch opens, but when you try and close it, the striker magically moved just enough so it won't close. Roll out of the crossed up condition, and everything is cool again. The solutions offered in this thread are solid. A decent Cage will stiffen the most elastic pop can.

-Ron
 
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Triangulation is the absolute key to limit body flex. First and foremost, a roll cage is to protect the driver. This does not mean it will limit body flex at all. A well designed cage will and should do both. Proper triangulation is not always possible in a daily use/street driven vehicle. Most inexpensive aftermarket cages are built like a ladder. All the tubes are parallel or perpendicular to the frame rails and squared to each other. This provides protection at a reasonable cost but little torsional support to the chassis. Only triangles will not flex. I have seen many cages installed in a chassis already twisted. A good cage should be designed, fabricated and welded in with the vehicle on a jig designed to keep the body square during this process. Minimum tubing should be 1 1/2" x .120" or 1 3/4" x .095" wall , A513 DOM. Don't use cheap ERW or any thin wall tube.
 
Just build a full cage and completely mount the suspension to it. Problem solved
 
I've got a question... Why do so many people seem to have this problem, but none of my 6 Jeeps ever have?
I've got no problem stuffing opposing wheels on a 6.5" lift. Even when the Jeep was stock (but with 6.5" lift) I've never had a problem with doors binding.
I beat the hell outta my Jeeps (to the point that most Jeepers try to talk some trail sense into me), and most of my Jeeps have been beaters.

My current rig is 6.5" long arm, 35's, wj knuckle (OTA/OKK), some decently built bumpers that both tie 2' into the frame rail, and I put a track bar mount brace in just cause, but I've just never had any symptoms of unibody flex.

Hmmm. Next time you have two wheels off the ground, stop get out and try opening and closing your lift gate. I'm sure you will see what we mean.

TO boostwerks: Sure, the framrs are designed to twist down the length of it. I highly doubt that they were designed to twist more than other trucks. Isnt that a symptom of c-channel frames vs a design. I doubt any automaker wants to have a floppy frame. Kind of like saying that twisting is better than snapping, but if it was thicker steel it wouldn't do either.
 
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