bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
What do you use to cover cinder block to make it smooth looking? Do you use a thin layer of mortar? What about on something like a set of cinder block stairs?
How to coat cinder block?
- Thread starter bigalpha
- Start date
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
I would think a thin layer of smooth concrete would work well, the finer ground the better. Especially for stairs, you would need something able to take a lot of abuse. Just a thought though, I have no experience coating blocks just laying concrete pads and building solid steps with forms :dunno:
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
There's a specific sort of cement called "block bond" that's used for mortarless block construction, but it's also handy for your application because it's smooth and very sticky, making it pretty easy to put on and trowel smooth without leaving half of it on the floor. It will stick to just about anything. I've even used it to put a stucco face on styrofoam. Check out the cement and mortar section at Lowe's or Home Despot, or some local yard if any such places exist where you are, and I think you'll find what you need. Edit to add: this stuff has some kind of fiberglass or other binder in it, which is why it can be used for mortarless construction, but it makes a pretty smooth surface nonetheless.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
If I used it for the tread part of the stairs then could I brush it so it'd have a rough finish to prevent slipping.
99xjache
NAXJA Member #1289
- Location
- Thousand Oaks, CA
yes. Let it get almost dry before you broom it though. If you can press on it with out leaving a dent it should be dry enough. Get your soft bristle broom wet, horsehair works best, give it a shake so that its not dripping wet, and run the broom across the surface till you acheive the texture you want.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Cool, thanks. Maybe I'll get enough to coat the whole bottom of the house where the cinder block is visible.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Make sure you clean off any dirt and whatnot... not a mason, but I'd hit it with some muriatic acid and a bristle brush before applying the cement.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Well, I talked to the woman and she doesn't necessarily want to coat the who house. I figure buying one application of the block bond stuff would be overkill for what we're doing; any other things that would work in this instance?
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
Bondo? 
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
^ X2 :roflmao:
Then stick Ford logo plates all over it, that should keep it from moving.
Then stick Ford logo plates all over it, that should keep it from moving.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
So, you are just doing some stairs?
Why not add sand to paint?
Why not add sand to paint?
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Because the stairs will be made from cinder block and I wanted the stairs to have a smooth finish to match the porch.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Really stupid,please dont do this!If the block is new,you shouldn't do anything for about 6 months.The block and motar need time to leach the lime out,otherwise anything you apply will flake away in time!
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
I am assuming you are going to put the steps where the wood is and leave that big platform there ? If so I would consider looking at some 24x24x2" precast concrete pavers, 4 or 6 on the ground in front, two or 3 on the next level near the platform, two high if needed.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Yeah, the wood and the black things (square tubing) will be removed and stairs put in their place. I have since put some cheapo red pavers in the front of the stair to make a 'landing'.
A standard size (8"x16") cinder block fits where the wooden stair is now. It's the perfect height. Only problem is we'd have to get the blocks that are deeper to make a tread that's more appropriate. I should have taken a picture this morning.
A standard size (8"x16") cinder block fits where the wooden stair is now. It's the perfect height. Only problem is we'd have to get the blocks that are deeper to make a tread that's more appropriate. I should have taken a picture this morning.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Your attitude sucks and it getting old.
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
Why not just form it up? Were you going to leave the blocks hollow?
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
I was going to get a small bag'o'concrete and fill up the voids and make sure the steps are stable, then coat them.
I figured it'd be easier to do that than pour concrete.
I figured it'd be easier to do that than pour concrete.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Being a self-taught concrete finisher (ok, I spent 10 years in construction, but learned by observation) I discovered that pouring concrete is not really that hard to do, you just need to follow the process to ensure a good pour and a long lasting surface.
I would just form up the steps and pour a solid concrete step, then add a landing pad. This can easily be done with ready mix concrete from Home Depot or similar supplier and mixed with water in a wheelbarrow. By the time you level and install the blocks, then fill with concrete so they are strong and solid, you’re ahead of the game by just pouring a solid concrete step.
Best practice here for a long-lasting job:
Begin by marking the slab's placement on the ground with powdered chalk, or stretch mason's lines between batterboards to determine the perimeter of the foundation.
Excavate a flat-bottomed hole for a 4-inch-thick slab; in areas where frost or drainage may be a problem, the slab should be poured over a 4- to 6-inch gravel bed, so dig deep enough to accommodate this.
Build temporary forms from scrap lumber nailed securely to stakes. Make sure the top edges of the forms are level to expedite finishing the concrete later. Pour the gravel bed.
Reinforce the area as required by code (typically with 1/2-inch reinforcing bar around the perimeter and 6-inch-square N. 10-10 welded-wire mesh within the slab area). Support the mesh about 2 inches above the base with small pieces of brick or block.
Thoroughly dampen the soil or gravel. Then, beginning at one corner, place and spread the concrete. Work the mix up against the form, and compact it into all corners with a shovel or mortar hoe by pushing (not dragging) it. Don't overwork the material or the heavy aggregate may sink to the bottom.
With a helper, move a straight 2 by 4 across the top of the forms to level the concrete, using a zigzag, sawing motion. Fill any voids with more concrete and re-level.
To smooth the surface, move a darby (which you may want to rent) in overlapping arcs, and then in overlapping straight, side-to-side strokes. Keep the tool flat—don't let it dig in. After the water sheen disappears from the concrete, but before the surface becomes really stiff, smooth it once more with a wood or magnesium hand float.
After casting the slab, do not allow the surface to dry too quickly or it may crack.
Spray it with a light mist of water, cover it with plastic sheeting, and allow it to cure for three days (longer in cold weather).
Here’s simple vendor based tutorial that lacks a few basic tips, like staking your forms so they don’t move, and finishing the edges with a bullnose edge tool- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zO6ZNB_ITUw
I would just form up the steps and pour a solid concrete step, then add a landing pad. This can easily be done with ready mix concrete from Home Depot or similar supplier and mixed with water in a wheelbarrow. By the time you level and install the blocks, then fill with concrete so they are strong and solid, you’re ahead of the game by just pouring a solid concrete step.
Best practice here for a long-lasting job:
Begin by marking the slab's placement on the ground with powdered chalk, or stretch mason's lines between batterboards to determine the perimeter of the foundation.
Excavate a flat-bottomed hole for a 4-inch-thick slab; in areas where frost or drainage may be a problem, the slab should be poured over a 4- to 6-inch gravel bed, so dig deep enough to accommodate this.
Build temporary forms from scrap lumber nailed securely to stakes. Make sure the top edges of the forms are level to expedite finishing the concrete later. Pour the gravel bed.
Reinforce the area as required by code (typically with 1/2-inch reinforcing bar around the perimeter and 6-inch-square N. 10-10 welded-wire mesh within the slab area). Support the mesh about 2 inches above the base with small pieces of brick or block.
Thoroughly dampen the soil or gravel. Then, beginning at one corner, place and spread the concrete. Work the mix up against the form, and compact it into all corners with a shovel or mortar hoe by pushing (not dragging) it. Don't overwork the material or the heavy aggregate may sink to the bottom.
With a helper, move a straight 2 by 4 across the top of the forms to level the concrete, using a zigzag, sawing motion. Fill any voids with more concrete and re-level.
To smooth the surface, move a darby (which you may want to rent) in overlapping arcs, and then in overlapping straight, side-to-side strokes. Keep the tool flat—don't let it dig in. After the water sheen disappears from the concrete, but before the surface becomes really stiff, smooth it once more with a wood or magnesium hand float.
After casting the slab, do not allow the surface to dry too quickly or it may crack.
Spray it with a light mist of water, cover it with plastic sheeting, and allow it to cure for three days (longer in cold weather).
Here’s simple vendor based tutorial that lacks a few basic tips, like staking your forms so they don’t move, and finishing the edges with a bullnose edge tool- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zO6ZNB_ITUw
