how to change spark plug??

[qwerty247]

Hi,

i know this sounds stupid, but how do you get the last spark plug out?
(the one nearest the front)

my 97 xj has it 'covered' with the alternator bracket... is that correct??

are you supposed to remove the alternator to get to the plug or is there a trick?

thanks for any advise !

 

[JEEPTUBE]

You should be able to get to them very easily.
Show some pics, ive never had the alternator block access.

 

[87manche]

the alternator is on the bottom of the engine. I assume you mean the AC compressor. You should still be able to get at it no problem, I see that you're in the UK, I can't imagine that they used different bracketry for the RH drive XJs, but I suppose it's possible. Any way you can get a picture?

 

[riverfever]

That's what I was thinking 87. Plug change was easy enough on my 96. Haven't done the 01 yet. If any of them were remotely challenging it was that one towards the firewall.

 

[5-90]

A universal joint and a couple of 3" extensions usually work for me.

5-90

 

[RichP]

If it is a really really tight fit get a sparkplug socket, some have a 3/4" nut looking end on them. Looks like this
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...rtical=TOOL&subcat=Sockets&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
at which time once it's on you can use a box or open end wrench to turn it... or you can stick a crows foot wrench and extensions with a ratchet. This is a crows foot

 

[qwerty247]

Hi,

thanks for your replies, it may be the ac but i thought it was an alternator.

even on top of that unit there are all the hoses running on top and dont even have enough room to pull the ht lead off...

it seems so strange to be covered like it is.

anyway i will take a photo to show you.

 

[5-90]

Could be worse - it could be a V6 front-wheel drive, with the firewall in the way of the back three spark plugs!

I find it easier to pull the HT lead off using a pair of "Spark Plug Wire Pliers" (should be available at your local parts house for a few dollars) - just ALWAYS GRAB THE BOOT, and NOT the wire. You can also put it back on with the pliers.

A little dielectric grease (should be available same place as the pliers) won't go amiss - apply it to the porcelain of the plug, just below the terminal. The boot will smear it down the rest of the way, and it will help prevent lockup of the wire boot next time.

5-90

 

[Saudade]

I had to move the heater hoses out of the way to get a clear shot at the plug. As long as the coolant is cold, you can squeeze the hose and move it just enough.

What 5-90 said about the boots and grease x2!

 

[RichP]

LOL, when I do plugs I also do cap, rotor AND wires....

 

[cklaus]

the dielectric grease is intended to got on the metal tip ( the side touching the wire, not the electrode that goes in the cylinder) of the spark plug to improve conductance between the spark plug wire and the spark plug. it allows electrons to flow more easily and prevents corrosion (its similar to the dielectric grease used in capacitors). if it smears on the porcelain and keeps the rubber from binding to it over the long run, that is just an added bonus... but not the original intended purpose of dielectric grease. i'm sure u guys knew that, just wanted to point it out for newbs. another suggestion is to pick up some "anti-seize" to but on the threads of the spark plug so that it will come out easier the next time you have to do your plugs. both of these products are available from Permatex, so if you find the aisle with different types of rtv sealants, you will probably find these in there with it. x2 on the 3/8" extensions and universal for the wrench.

 

[cklaus]

just reread my post and wanted to clarify, smear the dielectric grease on both the ceramic and the tip. a thin coat will do.

 

[canterbury 4 wheel]

yea

 

[qwerty247]

that last plug is really sooo hard to get too...

cant understand why its like that, under all those hoses and behind the brackets??

got a photo but cant attach it?

are all the 97 models like this?

 

[RichP]

that last plug is really sooo hard to get too...

cant understand why its like that, under all those hoses and behind the brackets??

got a photo but cant attach it?

are all the 97 models like this?

No, just the wrong hand drive exports

I really don't see it being that much of a problem, sure I've scraped my knuckles a couple of times but I generally put a deep socket on it, then stick the extension in and than attach the breaker bar, I use a breaker bar for more control and once I have it loose I use my fingers on the extension to turn it and I also only hand tighten it when putting the new plug in so I can feel it on the threads and know I'm not cross threading it...
Now my extension is either a snap-on or MAC and is very thin, much thinner than the sears extensions..