how strong is a super d30?

white_elephant

NAXJA Forum User
Location
miami
i have a d30 hp...under my cherokee...and im planning on making a super 30...i want to mount 37s...or may be 35s...depends on some other personal reasons....but yeah let say it will be 37s...

will a super 30 with ox locker hold the beating of 37s?...there was a chance of me swaping a 44 for the front but once i told my dad...he didnt get to happy and he said he will pay for the super 30 as long as i dont have to swap anything...
 
A built 44 will barely last on 37's in the rocks. The cold hard reality is that your wasting your money on the 30 if your gonna run 37's.

Unless of course you don't actually wheel on rocks... and mud pits and mall parking lots are your style. :confused1

If your pops is gonna throw down the cash money for beefing up the 30, well then go for it and stick with 35's. Not the approach I would take, but to each his own.

-jm
 
i live in florida so no rocks around here....well how much beating can a 30 hold with 35s?...

if not what axle can i swap that is a easy to swap.and holds the 37s....
 
There's a friend of mine on here...I believe his username is P1atinum.

He also lives in Florida (as do I). I've wheeled with him here and in Tellico and he has chromo shafts etc in his D-30 and to my knowledge has busted 3 of them...2 on rocks BUT the 3rd was done recently and only in mud...and he's on 35's (BFG MT's).

As stated above if you are a mall crawler and maybe a light to moderate mudder you may be ok on 35's.

But you can buy and build a junkyard 44 for roughly the cost of the super 30 and be ahead. Hell my waggy 44 front has stock shafts and joints and I've yet to break anything...BUT even though I'm only running 33's I try to be careful.
 
043500 said:
There's a friend of mine on here...I believe his username is P1atinum.

He also lives in Florida (as do I). I've wheeled with him here and in Tellico and he has chromo shafts etc in his D-30 and to my knowledge has busted 3 of them...2 on rocks BUT the 3rd was done recently and only in mud...and he's on 35's (BFG MT's).

Your friend must be crazy with the skinny pedal. BFG MTs are not exactly an aggressive tire either. All I can say is, "installer error" or manufacturer's defect. ;)
 
BlackJax said:
Your friend must be crazy with the skinny pedal. BFG MTs are not exactly an aggressive tire either. All I can say is, "installer error" or manufacturer's defect. ;)

Skinny pedal was not the issue for any of my shaft breaks. From my experience 35’s don’t belong on a D30 if you plan on wheeling it, at least not on my rig.

Except for the last one each shaft broke while crawling with very little if any wheel spin, I will say each did break while the tire was bound up a little and trying to crawl up the obstacle, more of a constant pressure then snap as opposed to the wheel spinning and then getting traction and snap. This issue is where the shaft narrows to go into the locker. And all three breaks were right in this same spot where the shaft comes out of locker, what surprises me is the U-joints aren’t going first.

But we are not really comparing the same thing here. I don’t have a super 30 just upgraded Yukon shafts, and I don’t have a selectable locker but a Detroit so I always have pressure on the shafts, with the Ox you can take some of the pressure off the shafts by unlocking the locker when you don’t need it. I am not really sure about any taper on a super 30 but this would just transfer all the pressure to the Ring and Pinion making that your week link.

Not sure this will help you but after running a 35’s on the Polished 30, I am building the 44 to help reduce the carnage.. I am sick of replacing shafts every couple of months.
 
You could keep the 27 spline inners and get the warn hub conversion. It makes the weak link in the axle the hubs, which are easy to replace and the hubs a lifetime warranty. That with alloy inners, the warn outers, some CTMs, and a good stiff diff cover (like OX, or Ruffstuff). It will be fine for a while, but the stress gets to it all eventually, and after time its gonna break. Keep your gearing below 4.56:1 to keep the thicker gears. Truss it to keep the housing from bending, and you should be good on 35's for a while, until you can go build a better axle. But for now that is a pretty expensive Dana 30, almost the cost of a better axle.

:cheers:
 
the stock unit bearings struggle with anything over 33. To complete the 'supering' of the 30 you'd have to get the warn or mm hubs.
 
RyanM said:
the stock unit bearings struggle with anything over 33. To complete the 'supering' of the 30 you'd have to get the warn or mm hubs.
I'm running an ARB in my D30. Also running AlloyUSA shafts. I turn a 36" TSL's and have found that the hub bearing unit is the weak link. I beat the heck out of mine. Yes even on rocks. The only thing that breaks so far is air fittings (bad install by a shop) and the hub bearing units.
 
P1atinum said:
Skinny pedal was not the issue for any of my shaft breaks. From my experience 35’s don’t belong on a D30 if you plan on wheeling it, at least not on my rig.

Except for the last one each shaft broke while crawling with very little if any wheel spin, I will say each did break while the tire was bound up a little and trying to crawl up the obstacle, more of a constant pressure then snap as opposed to the wheel spinning and then getting traction and snap. This issue is where the shaft narrows to go into the locker. And all three breaks were right in this same spot where the shaft comes out of locker, what surprises me is the U-joints aren’t going first.

But we are not really comparing the same thing here. I don’t have a super 30 just upgraded Yukon shafts, and I don’t have a selectable locker but a Detroit so I always have pressure on the shafts, with the Ox you can take some of the pressure off the shafts by unlocking the locker when you don’t need it. I am not really sure about any taper on a super 30 but this would just transfer all the pressure to the Ring and Pinion making that your week link.

Not sure this will help you but after running a 35’s on the Polished 30, I am building the 44 to help reduce the carnage.. I am sick of replacing shafts every couple of months.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't think Yukon made 4130 shafts for the D30?

I think I've seen you around. Do you have black rims?

Just proves the old addage "Destroying stuff is part of the battle. Upgrading stuff is how we win the war." ;)
 
I'm running a 30 spline arb, 30 spline alloy usa inners, CTM's with 30 spline stub axles and 30 spline unit bearings. A stiff diff cover and some heavy trussing (both help the d30 a *lot*, preventing most of the ring gear deflection). I've got 4.88's and 35's. I've only had the setup in for about 8 months now - but I've been *flogging* it for those 8 months and other than killing a couple of tie rod ends, had no issues.

That said, I wouldnt be stupid enough to run 37's on it. I'd consider 36's if there was one I liked, but I'd be a lot easier on the gas than I am now.
 
Cal, what TRE's are you using? I have burnt through two sets of my Currie TRE's and am looking at what do, and in your case what not to do, any input would be great. Sorry for the HiJack.
 
BlackJax said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't think Yukon made 4130 shafts for the D30?

I think I've seen you around. Do you have black rims?

Just proves the old addage "Destroying stuff is part of the battle. Upgrading stuff is how we win the war." ;)

Yeah, but there are a couple white XJ with black wheels. 2 on 35's one on 36's couple smaller ones, what side of town you live on? we try and go out a couple times a month, if nothing else for a beach run.

Yukon upgraded shafts are 4340, I think they make some 1541H as stock replacements but not sure on that.

I dont think I will ever when the upgrade war, just when I think I have gained a stalemate something comes out and proves me wrong.
 
Ben H said:
Cal, what TRE's are you using? I have burnt through two sets of my Currie TRE's and am looking at what do, and in your case what not to do, any input would be great. Sorry for the HiJack.


I run WJ TRE's on the tie rod, and chevy high misalignment at the draglink. My problem is i was doing a lot of wheeling in very loose areas where I was winching people uphill with nothing to anchor to - so i was putting my front tires into rocks to stop my rig from slideing forward. The force of the winch pulling down would push the steering over a little and put a lot of force on the TRE's and trackbar. I bought a long ass winch extension so i can find somewhere to anchor. ;)
 
P1atinum said:
Yeah, but there are a couple white XJ with black wheels. 2 on 35's one on 36's couple smaller ones, what side of town you live on? we try and go out a couple times a month, if nothing else for a beach run.

Yukon upgraded shafts are 4340, I think they make some 1541H as stock replacements but not sure on that.

I dont think I will ever when the upgrade war, just when I think I have gained a stalemate something comes out and proves me wrong.
I'm up in Baldwin near 50 and Brandy Branch, about 20-30 miles West of downtown. So I guess you could say I'm closer to Macclenny than I am Jax. You'll often see me out at Mayport/NASJax or on the trails out my way. We go to Ocala about three times a month or so since I'm working 5 on/4 off (nights) now. Gives me a lot of time to wheel in the daylight. ;)

I've seen maybe four lifted XJs around Jax. One is blue on 33s, one is copper on 33s or 32s, a black XJ on 39" boggers with stock axles, and one white one with 5.5" RE lift and black procomp wheels with 35s.

The only person I know personally with an XJ around here is moving to TN (he has a sick XJ on 44s with 15" lift) and he introduced me to a guy who is running a maroon XJ with 37" boggers and waggy 44s (forest ranger out in Bryceville) just recently who goes by the name "BigOleXJ" on this forum. That guy has a really nice rig.
 
my brother is running 35's locked but with cv shafts, wheels rocks hard and has yet to break one, he ran stock shafts for a while but never locked it
 
xalexjx said:
my brother is running 35's locked but with cv shafts, wheels rocks hard and has yet to break one, he ran stock shafts for a while but never locked it

So he has IFS and a locker? That must be one heavily modified rig. ;)
 
just get some alloy shafts, dont waste your money on the super 30 kit
 
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