How much power can the drivetrain take?

In the future I plan on getting around to doing a stroker and etc. But for now I am left dreaming of the day that I can. I often wonder how much the drivetrain can actually take for power without breaking. Take my XJ for example... a dana 30 up front, 8.25 in the rear, aw4 and a 242 transfering the power between the axles... what part of the drivetrain is the weakest?
 
JeepinAudiophile said:
In the future I plan on getting around to doing a stroker and etc. But for now I am left dreaming of the day that I can. I often wonder how much the drivetrain can actually take for power without breaking. Take my XJ for example... a dana 30 up front, 8.25 in the rear, aw4 and a 242 transfering the power between the axles... what part of the drivetrain is the weakest?

My drivetrain's holding up fine to stroker power so far but I think it helps that I still have stock sized wheels and tires. With bigger tires, there's more chance you'll break something. Which is the weakest link? Probably the u-joints in the rear driveshaft.
 
I drive in full-time 95% of the time now... i think that would be part of the fun of having a stroker and the 242 tc...
 
Rear u-joints are most definitely your failing point. Point in case: My '97 XJ...only difference between our two drivetrains is I have the part-time NP241...

If you're looking for power, why are you driving in full-time 95% of the time? You would be better off in rwd... You will feel the difference. Unless of course you're driving on gravel or other loose surfaces...
 
Driving in full-time 4WD would take some of the torque away from the rear u-joints since it'll be transferred to the front wheels, so that's a good idea if you want your u-joints to survive longer.
The combination of stroker, AX15, and NP242 looks like a very good proposition. I have the first two and I'm working on the third.
 
I have really bad axle wrap, and if i drive in 2wd it's REALLY bad... so i drive in full time to alleviate that, but I also like the all wheel.
 
Dr. Dyno said:
Driving in full-time 4WD would take some of the torque away from the rear u-joints since it'll be transferred to the front wheels, so that's a good idea if you want your u-joints to survive longer.
The combination of stroker, AX15, and NP242 looks like a very good proposition. I have the first two and I'm working on the third.
The np242 and ax-15 were not offered together from the factory because the 242 can't take the direct shock of a standard as well as an np231. If you wan't to run around in all wheel drive with a stroker I think other t-cases would be much more suitable.
JeepinAudiophile said:
I have really bad axle wrap, and if i drive in 2wd it's REALLY bad... so i drive in full time to alleviate that, but I also like the all wheel.
Traction bar.
 
I was thinking of doing a traction bar, but the fact of the matter is that my rear leafs are shot... When I get around to having the $$ to order my lift again(had to sell the first on ebay to pay bills) The leafs will be replaced then... until then i plan on just living with the problem. I may end up doing a traction bar setup anyways, but i'll figure that out later.

As for the 242 not taking the stresses of a manual... why is this? Would a 241 be more suitable?(since it is found under the 5.9ZJ and 4.7HO's and etc...)

Also, isn't this nearly the same transfer case that is found in hummers?(H1's not the Suburban2) I know its similar atleast, but I do not know the exact differences.
 
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