Hot rodding a RENIX in Cali

cruiser54 said:
Alex E-Scrape the paint from under the firewall ground and reattach it. The other things you did are great. Be sure to remove, scrape, clean, polish and shine the connections at the engine dipstick tube stud. Very important.

outlander-Butt dyno proven but keep in mind the ECUs evolved. So, a 90 ECU into an 87 will be more noticeable than a 90 ECU into an 88 or 89.
Click to expand...

That might explain why my 90 feels faster then my 88 did... Still slow as a pig!
 
So has anyone put the 90 ecu in the 88? is it a big difference? My buddy has a 90, maybe ill swap with him...lol
 
i've never heard of this either. Are you sure this won't interfere with a car that has a c101? Cuz i don't think any of the 90's did but from what i know all the 87's do...
 
Mike1331 said:
i've never heard of this either. Are you sure this won't interfere with a car that has a c101? Cuz i don't think any of the 90's did but from what i know all the 87's do...
Click to expand...

the C101 connector was simply deleted, the harness is the same. There was a TSB regarding the removal if it was a problem under warranty.

cuts and splices.
 
cruiser54 said:
No holes in the firewall. I clean it out and leave it, but locate the CPS wires and hardwire those around the C101.
Click to expand...

Got ya, I know which one your talking about. Its the big black connector by the intake. For some reason I kept convincing my self it was some bulk head connector by the firewall or brake booster. When I get back to my Jeep I think I'm gonna pull it apart and see what it looks like. It would kind of be nice if it was all dirty or something. At least that way its fixable and might explain something, haha.:doh:
 
I'm talking about the one mounted on the firewall behind the brake booster that is bolted together. It was on 87s and 88s, discotinued in 89.
Do yourself a favor and go to Napa and buy their "electronics cleaner" in a spray can. Some time when you've got 20 minutes, unplug every connector you can see in the engine bay and spray it out, one by one. Plug then back together as you go.
 
Don't worry about the internal modifications too much. I made a renix stroker with an after market cam, and it passes smog no problem. Do what ever you want. The biggest thing is matching the renix intake to the HO head. The ports are shaped differently. If you just bolted it on, some of the matting surfaces will not line up and you could get a vacuum leak. I had to raise the intake like 3/16 of inch higher to overcome that by opening up the alignment holes on the intake.
 
Cool, Im going to start looking for a mild cam. Does anyone port match or do anything to inprove the flow of air quality? Im afraid to do anything that will kill low end torque. I just want the choking boggyness gone and the poor throttle response. I have a feeling the PCM, if it works, might be a part of the solution. Im going to PnP Saturday for some parts. Any other suggestions?
 
I got some cleaner and pulled the connector to clean it out. Its packed with old almost hard dielectric greese or something. Its pretty nasty, I think when I grab a PCM this weekend I'll take it upon my self to delete that connector and just get shrink type butt connectors.
 
Alex E said:
Cool, Im going to start looking for a mild cam. Does anyone port match or do anything to inprove the flow of air quality? Im afraid to do anything that will kill low end torque. I just want the choking boggyness gone and the poor throttle response. I have a feeling the PCM, if it works, might be a part of the solution. Im going to PnP Saturday for some parts. Any other suggestions?
Click to expand...


If you're going to go through all that trouble just use an HO head, modify the renix intake to fit, use an HO header with the EGR bung welded in.

THere's not much sense trying to eek more performance out of the Renix head, it flows like doodoo. Much of the performance increase from Renix to HO happened because they changed the intake/exhaust port angles and size.

Anyway, if it were me I'd do an HO head, the HO cam and keep the Renix manifolds and such for your emissions requirements.
 
I kept the HO head on there, I just want to make sure Im matching parts correctly and getting as much benifit from the HO head as possible. I want my junk to have a nice usable power band damn it. Why cant my Jeep just do a wheelie and get 28 MPG, that too much to ask?
 
IH392 said:
Don't worry about the internal modifications too much. I made a renix stroker with an after market cam, and it passes smog no problem. Do what ever you want. The biggest thing is matching the renix intake to the HO head. The ports are shaped differently. If you just bolted it on, some of the matting surfaces will not line up and you could get a vacuum leak. I had to raise the intake like 3/16 of inch higher to overcome that by opening up the alignment holes on the intake.
Click to expand...

I found that using the Renix gasket the intake bolted up perfectly and didn't leak. The HO gasket would have caused a leak. Using the HO header, I had to file a little bit off the rear most part of the intake manifold where it crowded the header. 5 minute fix.
 
Hey guys, I got some down time at work today so I took it upon my self to clean and inspect C101 and this is what I found.

Here is one side of the connector.
IMAG0217.jpg


Annnnnnnd....the other....
IMAG0216.jpg


This is all the gunk I picked out of the connector.
IMAG0218.jpg
 
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