Hittin' Up ya'all first - No Crank - No Start

SharkXJ

NAXJA Member #1177
Location
San Jose, CA
Hey guys -
2001 with 140k and stock motor. As of September it is has been my 2nd car and gets driven every so often. Just took it to Hollister over turkey day weekend. Nothing hard core but did play in the mud quite a bit. It was raining hard today so I decided to drive it to work (50 miles one way).

Drove to work today, and had no problems. Went out about 3 hours later to get some lunch and the Jeep won't start. No Crank Nothin. I check the battery voltage = Fine. Checked the main grounds - fine.

Here's the abslolute weird part - I open the door - all lights that should come on - come on, I put the key in and turn to on, lights are on, then I try to start it, I hear a click and then the dome light dims and all the lights go out. I will leave the key in and about 5 to 10 minutes later, the lights come back on. I then try to start again and get the same thing.

I removed all accessory items (lights and Winch) from the battery just to make sure there isn't a short. I also pulled the relay cover and all of the fuses and relays are dry.

Maybe some mud / water got onto something that I am missing?

So at this point I am absolutely clueless. I don't know electrical very well so any and all help would be most welcome.

THANKS!!!!
 
Sounds like a bad battery. The cherokee likes to mess with you. When my first battery went bad, it would start/run fine, I would go inside a store, come out to start it back out, and I'd get a click. Lights would flicker when I'd jump it, all fixed by a new battery.

Go get your battery checked at Oreilly. Voltage isn't an indicator of battery health.
 
If it won't crank at all - that is not a CPS issue. The CPS will still allow you to crank.

No crank is much more likely the NSS, starter, or battery.

Edit: hopefully its not the battery that I gave you...
 
rule out stuff like :
alternator,
battery, - make sure its at a full charge, mud can kill a alternator maybe you are running on just battery
grounds,
CPS,
starter solenoid,
 
Sean - Battery Voltage is fine. I justput it in and it was fine :-)

Josh - I thought the same thing BUT if there is a SHORT it CAN cause the issue I am having.
 
Will do a Drop test to Ground tomorrow.

Is the term CSP for both the Cam Position Sencor and Crank Position Sencor. They are two things I am going to replace and see if that's it. just curious.
 
rule out stuff like :
alternator,
battery, - make sure its at a full charge, mud can kill a alternator maybe you are running on just battery
grounds,
CPS,
starter solenoid,

John,
No - not the alternator. Remember - The lights and dash come on as they are supposed to - when I go to start it, there's a click and the lights go out. Then the done light dims.
 
Here's what I found on the other thread. I had never heard of this before and was amazed that it could happen.

******************************************************************
What happened is that the CPS shorted. This caused the engine computer to shut itself off(i.e. it has short protection circuitry)

Disconnect your crankshaft position sensor then put the ignition key in the on position.
If the instrument cluster starts to work, once the CPS is disconnected, then you know it is shorted. You can verify this by checking with an ohmeter.
Replace the CPS and it should be fine."
*******************************************************************
 
John,
No - not the alternator. Remember - The lights and dash come on as they are supposed to - when I go to start it, there's a click and the lights go out. Then the done light dims.

ya my money is on the CPS right now , but ive had an alternator not put out enough juice to start a rig, but it will be enough to run the measly dome lights, freaking huge difference in bumping a starter versus powering a dome light. battery could be mostly dead and power dome lights.

ive seen loose battery terminals cause similar results as well. like really loose.
 
yah how old is the battery ? 4-6 years is average life. if its in that range could be time...
 
I would guess battery. If you're running an Optima, that is where I would start. We have had a bad run on yellow Optimas at work. One of the motor pools has a whole pallet of bad yellow tops waiting to get returned. All won't hold a charge.
 
Check the voltage while someone tries to crank the engine over.

If it drops dramatically then your battery is shot.

Voltage by its self doesn't mean much.
 
Mine did the same thing. Voltage was good everywhere but that will not tell you much, its all about the amps baby. Replaced my battery and it fired right up.
 
Good call you guys. I haven't tried to jump it an I have a feeling that might do it. Based on what ya'all are tellin me.....

I'll update tomorrow.

As always, thanks everyone.
 
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