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Herculined Rusty XJ Flares

true i guess but you have to selective in higher prone areas...in my experience i wish i could protect more of the body from scatches and stuff which would mean higher lining....looks are not too important though...not by anymeans a show truck so uhhhh circular arguement...
 
I'd be careful with that plasma cutter... I just watched a guy clear his fenders with a plasma on a broncoII a couple weeks ago.

I was across the shop buzzing away beads with the MIG, when I flipped my hood up to see my work, and saw light flickering on the wall. I turned around to see through the rear driver's side glass some 3 foot flames in the interior of the bronco. My buddy kept cutting away merrily with his hood on, unable to see the flames in the interior seeing as how he was kneeled down running the plasma along his cut-line.

It cut right into the interior, and wasted the inner rear passenger side of the truck.

A sawzall and/or cutoff wheel work just fine too. Just some advice for ya. Good luck.
 
ok thanks i have a grinder but my rear bumber which is steel gets in the way of the grinder and i do not think i could get as a clean of a cut...but i have heard of fires starting really easily and i am not too familiar with a torch only used one a few times so i will try the recipro saw and my grinder to get a solid cut and the fill in the rest with the bend and additional sheet metal if needed to have a waterproof seal. Thanks. I could let my friend do the metal work since he is a welder but it doesnt look too hard to cut...my welds are also a little sloppy
 
it would sure be worth it to get someone who knows what they are doing... i tried welding once and my work looked like an elephants ass sewed up with a grape vine...
 
ok let my nuts go most people did not like it...its ok i think i see how it is not the most asthetically looking product, but down the road i think the function will overcome the looks...then again why not protect everything? ANYWAY i am going to finish the rears in about a week...COAT THEM and then post the finishing pic...sigh yall are tough round here...as for the rear box quarter panels there are a lot of seams and i am going to get a local fabrication place cut and weld for me...they said the could do it no prob...then i can mount, rivet and finish the rest of my rig... and get more shiat for it...final pics in a few...ahhhh
 
wow I'm surprised everyone cares what it looks like. personally, I give you a thumbs up for putting function first. it's not as ugly as my bumper. I herculined my interior and my rims, I love the stuff.

That stuffs so much fun to work with isn't it? only reason it looks bad is the texture, looks like you used a brush? I found that the textured rollers make a much nicer texture than a brush. fortunately, the stuff bonds to itself, so another coat with a roller should help quite a bit. also, use a paint mixer, the kind you put on a drill, and mix the heck out of it. I got two of the herc kits, that come with rollers, but it says that you can buy the same rollers, I think it's a 3M product. they look like sponges but plastic, mine were blue.
 
slip kid you have a damm good eye there...yes it is all brushed on...the brush for me anyways allowed for easier coating and with the brush i could dab the material wherever i wanted...the roller i think is for open spaces like the bed of a truck... i actually used a brush for the interior of my jeep and found it easier to apply and use over the roller...as for looks i know i have been getting a lot of responses about man that looks horrible but when i finish the rear and get everything squared away witht the fenders and rear quarter panels then i can make true judgements about asthetics... as for now i like the fronts and would do the same if i had the chance just to leave the fenders with rivets...ahhh ok ill get more heat for that one!

:hang: = looks as judged by yall!! ok man please more feedback if possible!
 
yes my rollers were blue also more like a rougher sponge... bigger spaces would have been easier with the roller though i think since the kit is for the rear bed of a truck
 
It does work better on flat surfaces. You can cut the roller in half, that helps on contours. It's a pain but the texture is worth it IMO
 
:phone: Better answer that cause I think Rusty's gonna want his stickers back!!! :wave:

aparke4 said:
ok updated pics... negative or positive comments appreciated and why!


51bomo
Click to expand...
 
i trimmed the max amount around the wheel wells and the flares are moved up a little than they are contoured for. The gap in the front where the plastic trim is located is removed: it is held on with 2 3m adhesive strips. I then shaved those strips off, scuffed and then mounted the flares. Since i wanted to achieve maximum clearance, the flares did not fit 100 like the where originally formed to the cherokees body. The gap near the door i filled in with a plastic pipe fixing goopy material, let it harden (its like putty), the herced over it after it dried. That filled in that gap, and for the front near the bumper i trimmed about an inch to fit my front bumper off the front of the fenders to fit my custom bumper...it is almost like an arb except the sides were built a little longer so i had to trim.
 
It looks like ass.

I don't see what has been gained by doing this. I am all for function over fashion... but whats the function here?

-jm
 
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