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help w/ lift


NAXJA Forum User

when it comes to working on vehicles im not the greatest. I could prob finish my lift, however i did not start. Anyone want to help or suggest what parts i should use. I am on a budget. was going to go with 6.5" rough country but I now know that it is not that great. Any body help me out with suggestions. Also what to do with the driveshaft.

First off, try the search.

Second, use a lot of PB blaster on every nut/bolt. Rent a strut compressor from Autozone or the like, not a spring compressor because it gets in the way. You'll probably need a SYE and new driveshaft. Dirk @ DPGOffroad.com can set you up for a good price.

Good luck... I couldn't have done my lift w/o a buddy....

First off, if you're on a budget why are you going with such a big lift? Keep in mind, you're going to have to do a whole lot of modifications to get that lift right. Drop Pitman, Longer Arms, Longer Brakelines, SYE, T-case Drop, Driveshafts, Shims, Tracbar, etc. If you're in the middle of the lifting process, I hope you have an endless amount of cash. I installed my 3" rusty's in one afternoon. It really wasn't that hard of a job to do. I'm not trying to be a dick, but you're better off leaving the lift for a mechanic or someone knowledgable. You should have went with a smaller lift, if you're on a "budget".
I have to agree with uva a bit. By no means am I trying to discourage you on doing this, but I would rethink it. From what I understand, you want to do this yourself, and your on a budget. Try starting out with a 3" from rusty's etc. I have worked on cars all my life and some of this stuff can be a bit challenging. It's not only putting the lift on, but the problems you will occur along the way. A lot of people say no cherokee is the same and I agree. Different rig, diff problems. Do a search on the "death wobble" (which i am dealing with now) and you'll see what I mean. Anyhow enough rambling
PB BLASTER! Everything. Sway bar disocs, rear leaf main bolts, ubolts, track bar and what I think is the most important, the rear shocks upper conecting bolts, but the list goes on. If you decide to go with a 3 or maybe 4.5? you can get away without the strut compressor, but if you can get one, get one.
What are your goals for this lift? What are you gonna run it on? Whats your budget? From what I've heard don't go with rough country. Like the name says.....its rough. Also what year XJ do you have?
a 6.5 incurs major issues and makes a DD xj a money pit...
(this is all based on my real expierence)

you will need to address:
Control Arm angles
driveshaft angles and type (switch to a slip joint driveshaft and use a slip yoke eliminator)
steering angles (NOT a DPA)
trackbar angle and lenght
front and rear pinion angles

and with a 6.5" lift, you will need to run at least 33's or you will look like a fag (also based on my expierence as my rig currently sits)

and to run 33's you have to re-gear

unless you have an 87-89 with a d44 rear end or a 97+ with an 8.25 rear end, the rear axle at the minimum needs to be upgraded, maybe the front, and along with axle upgrades, you need to re-gear to fit the 33's, might as well throw lockers, might as well throw alloy shafts and hi-steer on there, and then you have spent 4,000 on your DD in about 10 minutes... and 6,000 if you dont do the axle fab yourself...

so much for the budget 6" lift...
thanks guys, I have a rough country 3 inch that is sagging like crazy. I want to be able to fit 33's and I have a chrysler 8.25 rear. Going to be using it in some mud and in the snow on trails that are not very tough. Let me know what you think.

You cannot go into a 6" or higher lift "on a budget." As already posted, ther's a LOT more involved than just the new springs and longer shocks. Example: One of my friends in the North Atlantic Chapter had a nice 95 riding on a Rusty's 3" lift, and he was doing difficult trails. But he decided that he HAD to go up 2 more inches. So he threw in some coil spacers and blocks in the rear. A short time later I got a phone call asking if I might happen to have a driveshaft and a rear axle hanging around. He went off to test his new lift, and less than a quarter mile down the road his driveshaft fell out, and tweaked the pinion yoke on the way. (Other people have been able to go to 5" with the stock driveshaft -- I know, I know.)

You'll need to figure on a slip yoke eliminator, which means a new driveshaft. You'll need longer brake hoses. You'll probably quickly find that your brakes suck with 33" tires, so you'll be looking for brake upgrades. You'll need longer shocks and extended bump stops.

It does not sound to me like you really "need" to go that high. You live on Long Island, fer gosh sakes. It's FLAT! It's better to pick a more realistic height that doesn't involve as many extras, then save your money until you can do it right. I'd suggest either a good 3" lift and 31s or maybe an RE 4-1/2" lift and 32s. I don't think you need anything more than that.
I'd also suggest smaller lift, OME or something equal, full spring packs and new springs for sure. Then I'd concentrate on some other stuff, re-gear and either a locker or an auburn LSD like mine. Then armour, skids, bumpers, etc. At that point if you want to go bigger get a new DD and go to town. With the OME or equal you can put 30's or 31's under there with no problems connected. I tried 31's on mine for S&G and they fit, sure filled up those wheel wells LOL, but I'd need longer steering stops and longer bump stops if I was planning on keeping them.
My 98 is at stock height, auburn, skids, tow points. It does what I want it to do which is some good trail and power line riding, I avoid mud and big rocks as I need to use this Jeep every day for my business.