kloker said:
5-90, Yeah, that's the ones. Yup, I used the 12-pt. socket. The problem was the severe rust damage (as in crumbly). I did all those things, except drilling, which, from experience, I would never, ever do, unless I had no other choice. It doesn't work out well unless you have a machine shop, which I don't. You're probably a lot better than I am at "freehand" drilling, eh? I do, however, greatly appreciate your reply and ideas. I think I think a lot like you do in a lot of ways when it comes to "creative problem solving." You always seem to be one of the first, if not the first, to offer help. I hope everyone on this board appreciates that fact. I've only been a member here a short time, and you've already helped me out a couple of times. Thank you.
I do have one question. You mention different torque settings depending on whether or not I'm using anti-seize. Can you enlighten me on that? With all this rust I have to deal with on this thing, I'll be using a lot of it, so it would be handy information.
What I do have is the entire bolt still complete, only rounded off completely. Looks like I have to pull the steering knuckle off. I could put it in the vise and wail on it awhile, see if it'll come loose. But I could damage the threads that way too. My brother recommended vise grips and a big hammer. Another friend suggested a small pipe wrench instead of vise grips. I might give that a quick try, but last night I talked to the guys at the shop that repairs, maintains, and fuels my big truck. I think I'll just pull it off and take it down there. They have a fully equipped shop and lots of expertise. They will weld a nut onto the ruined bolt head and use that to get it out.
I'll report on how it went when it's done.
Anything that reduces the friction between the internal and external threads will significantly change the installed preload ("installation torque") of a threaded fastener. What you use will effect the amount of change in your installation preload.
Threaded fasteners, in the absence of some sort of chemical locking compount or a direct mechanical lock (deformed threads or Nylon collars/buttons,) depend upon the elasticity of the metal used to make the fastener to retain themselves. This also effects clamping force - which is why, for instance, installation torque on cylinder head and manifold screws is so important.
I've done tests at school comparing clamping force to installation torque (lubricated and dry, clean and dirty) and also installation using the "torque angle" method (where you turn the screw until it makes contact with the surface, then turn it a specified angle.) Short form of the results (bear in mind that, unless otherwise specified, torque values given in service literature are for "clean, dry" threads):
Using a torque wrench can vary installation preload by as much as +/- 15%!
Using some sort of "teflon paste" thread sealer (like used in plumbing) allows for the same tension on the fastener using ~10% less force (the carrier paste, apparently, makes up for most of the lubricity of the PTFE/Teflon.) Therefore, when using Teflon-based thread sealant paste (plumber's pipe dope, LocTite PST, or similar,) reduce installation torque by 10%.
Using engine oil or chassis grease as a lubricant reduces friction to where the same installed preload (tension on the fastener) is achieved using 1/4-1/3 less turning force (torque.) Therefore, if using engine oil or grease, reduce the given torque figure for "clean, dry" threads by 1/4 to 1/3 (I usually reduce by 1/3.)
Using some variety of anti-seize lubricant allows for the same installed tension using HALF of the turning force - reduce "clean, dry" torque figures by
half. Note that this can also be done to "expand the capacity" of your torque wrench in some applications - the axle stub nut up front gets torqued to 175 pound-feet, or you can use never-seez and set your "clicker" for 87 pound-feet.
The use of threadlocker compounds (LocTite, e. g.) does not significantly affect installed tension using the torque method. Therefore, no changes to installed torque when using LocTite.
Lubricating threads actually will allow for more consistent installed preload when measuring the turning force to install the screw.
Using the "torque angle" method (when given the option,) will allow for even more consistency - even over lubricated and torqued screws! However, data is not always given (I should probably see about computing it one of these days...)
The effects of lubrication are minimal on "torque angle" fasteners, since you are measuring the angle through which the fastener is turned (60*, 90*, or 180* are most common) rather than the turning force. Ninety degrees is nintety degrees - lubricated or no. However, when using never-seez (for instance,) it will become possible to actually strip the threads right out of the mating part, or right off of the screw, if installing to full torque!
In summary -
When a "clean, dry" figure is given in the manual, reduce it by:
0% for "clean, dry" threads
0% for chemical locking compounds
10% when using some sort of Teflon paste compound (Teflon tape is not recommended)
30% when using engine oil or chassis grease
50% when using anti-seize lubricant.
Due to variations and manufacturing tolerances, the use of lubricants when
not specified on critical fasteners (cylinder head screws, manifold screws, and most transmission and engine internals) is not RPT
NOT recommended.