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hella 500 ldriving lights
- Thread starter xj09
- Start date
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
OK - there's two ways to handle this...
1) If you have a test light, put the high beams on and see which wire's live (the black one is usually earth - but that can be quickly verified with a voltmeter. Also, a voltmeter can sub for the test light, if that's all you have. I got rid of my test light years ago - limited information available.)
2) You tell us what year you've got - automotive wiring systems are never static. We really need to know more - while you've given us the wire colours, that doesn't tell us what you've got, and how are we to know if the wiring's been changed? Even for the simple questions, a line like this:
1989XJ/4.0/AW4/NP231/D30/D35 - 3.55
will work wonders. Read that line as "1989 Cherokee, 4.0 inline six, AW4 4-speed automatic transmission, NP231 transfer case, Dana 30 front, Dana 35 rear, geared at 3.55:1" It's not really necessary to specify XJ or MJ past 1992 (the last year the MJ was available,) and if you don't know your transmission or transfer case, you can say "Auto" or "Manual" in that place, and if you don't know the transfer case, you can sort it out quickly by checking for the presence of a "4WD Full-Time" setting - the NP242 has it, the NP231 does not.
It's amazing how much help a line like that can be when we're trying to answer you.
Remember, I'm not trying to be a wiseass - I'd really like to help! Problem is, I need a little more information to figure it out (I've got a dozen FSM's right here, but I'm not about to go through wiring diagrams in all of them to find out which headlights are wired BLK : VIO : RED/ORG. It would take time I'd prefer to spend on other things. Granted, I'd probably have figured it out by now, but I think helping you form good habits when asking questions is a more productive use of my time...)
5-90
1) If you have a test light, put the high beams on and see which wire's live (the black one is usually earth - but that can be quickly verified with a voltmeter. Also, a voltmeter can sub for the test light, if that's all you have. I got rid of my test light years ago - limited information available.)
2) You tell us what year you've got - automotive wiring systems are never static. We really need to know more - while you've given us the wire colours, that doesn't tell us what you've got, and how are we to know if the wiring's been changed? Even for the simple questions, a line like this:
1989XJ/4.0/AW4/NP231/D30/D35 - 3.55
will work wonders. Read that line as "1989 Cherokee, 4.0 inline six, AW4 4-speed automatic transmission, NP231 transfer case, Dana 30 front, Dana 35 rear, geared at 3.55:1" It's not really necessary to specify XJ or MJ past 1992 (the last year the MJ was available,) and if you don't know your transmission or transfer case, you can say "Auto" or "Manual" in that place, and if you don't know the transfer case, you can sort it out quickly by checking for the presence of a "4WD Full-Time" setting - the NP242 has it, the NP231 does not.
It's amazing how much help a line like that can be when we're trying to answer you.
Remember, I'm not trying to be a wiseass - I'd really like to help! Problem is, I need a little more information to figure it out (I've got a dozen FSM's right here, but I'm not about to go through wiring diagrams in all of them to find out which headlights are wired BLK : VIO : RED/ORG. It would take time I'd prefer to spend on other things. Granted, I'd probably have figured it out by now, but I think helping you form good habits when asking questions is a more productive use of my time...)
5-90
RockTracXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
xj09 said:
Don't connect to the high beams wire, it limits your flexibility. Connect to the battery so you can use the driving lights whenever you want, not just when the high beams are on.
Purple
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
and when you ghet these, make sure you get the fog lights, or amber lights, not like .... spot lights... .. spot lights are good for cars that go 100+ km/h
Lou
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ToronNo/Hamilton
What kinda lights should I get if I want to go like 140 km/h?Purple said:
ECKSJAY
Water is dirty
- Location
- Covington, WA
Lou said:
Same ones, like that's why the + sign was after the 100.
Roxtar
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NW Indiana-Chicago area
Disagree.Purple said:
I have Hella 500 driving and fog lights
If you're using these to supplement your high beams get the driving lights. The fog lights will give you more side vision but won't add anything to the "length" of sight.
I have a 1996 cherokee classic 4.0 ltr high output auto tranny. Im pretty new at jeep stuff, but i got these lights and i just want them to freakin work. If I knew which wire it was I can do the work. Did someone say I could connect the green wire from the switch to the battery also? And I have grounds for the relay and both lights, but does the switch need one too?
Lou
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ToronNo/Hamilton
Did someone say I could connect the green wire from the switch to the battery also?
Yes, they did, and yes, you can. There are sometimes regional legislative restrictions about having aux. lights operate independant of stock high/low beams.
And I have grounds for the relay and both lights, but does the switch need one too?
Only if the switch is of the lighted-type, which is what Hella usually included.
I think you should be able to get a wiring diagram from one of the Hella (international) web sites.
Yes, they did, and yes, you can. There are sometimes regional legislative restrictions about having aux. lights operate independant of stock high/low beams.
And I have grounds for the relay and both lights, but does the switch need one too?
Only if the switch is of the lighted-type, which is what Hella usually included.
I think you should be able to get a wiring diagram from one of the Hella (international) web sites.
IH8RDS
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hampton, VA
RockTracXJ said:
In some states its required by law. I run my Black Magic's run through my hi-beam. I would pity the fool that was coming head on with me and having to take the time to swich off my high beams and the switch off my Hella's.
Last edited:
bajacalal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Diego (North County), California
First, sorry for not answering the PM that you sent me. It is most likely the red/orange wire you are looking for. In order to figure it out, you just need to obtain a voltmeter and test for voltage with the hi-beams on and off. Also, the headlight plugs have a clip on the back, it opens and closes which is how I connected the grey wire that triggers my relay, by soldering.
My driving lights (hella 550) are wired to go on and off in sync with the high beams, to not come on at all even with the high beams, and, to come on by themselves even if the headlights are off. Its just a 3 position guys. I don't know why anyone would not want to connect them using the high beams. That way, I have an "instant off" via the high beam switch, in case a car approaches me. The grey wire shown below runs to the switch and triggers the relay when the hi-beams are ON and the switch is in the right position.
And yes, they are the driving lights with the distance beams.
My driving lights (hella 550) are wired to go on and off in sync with the high beams, to not come on at all even with the high beams, and, to come on by themselves even if the headlights are off. Its just a 3 position guys. I don't know why anyone would not want to connect them using the high beams. That way, I have an "instant off" via the high beam switch, in case a car approaches me. The grey wire shown below runs to the switch and triggers the relay when the hi-beams are ON and the switch is in the right position.
And yes, they are the driving lights with the distance beams.
