Heavy-duty leaf springs

[4xBob]

I combined leaf packs for my 1990, using a set of almost-new springs (from a person who put on a lift) plus the main spring from my OEM 1990 set. I cut off the bushing eyes on the new springs, then stacked the whole set under the old main spring. I went from a soft rear suspension that dropped under any load to a stiffer rear suspension that handles towing (3500 lb.) without serious dropping. The ride height is about 1 1/2 inches over stock height, and the ride is noticeably firmer but still soaks up the bumps without being too rough on passengers. It did exactly what I wanted.

 

[gjxj]

Yea, I saved the old spings in case I decide to lift a little more I'll do that.
At this point I was concerned not to lift so much that I would need to lift the front just to make it look right.

 

[klonestar]

I want a 2" lift and have found 1 kit for cheap that includes 2" lift shackles, 2" spacers and four BPE's (that claim to restore 1" of stock shock travel to keep useability of stock shocks). Am also keeping old leaf pack but not sure if it will help as main leaf is pretty reverse sagged.

 

[Steelghost]

My rear leafs were sagging so I got the hd leafs from quadratec. They sure did lift it up an inch if not more. I then got 1 inch poly spacers for the front to level it out. So I came out of it with a 1 inch lift and it looks great

 

[klonestar]

My rear leafs were sagging so I got the hd leafs from quadratec. They sure did lift it up an inch if not more. I then got 1 inch poly spacers for the front to level it out. So I came out of it with a 1 inch lift and it looks great

Thank you for this info! Im getting the same set of leafs and was wondering how much if any lift they would give.

Thanks again,
Ken

 

[JrTxJ]

I just installed these this weekend. No pics at this time, but I must say they are great. My 2001 only had 55k on it, but the rear was sagging so much the flares were barely 1" over the tires. Now they look like they have atleast 3 1/2" over the tire if not more. I'll have to take a measurement exactly of how much it lifted, but I'm very happy. I'm now running 31s and everything fits great.

Don't get me started on the install. No rust at all, but those bolts were the hardest and worst things I've ever dealt with. Turned into a 2 day project! and I don't even have the fronts done yet.

 

[klonestar]

Don't get me started on the install. No rust at all, but those bolts were the hardest and worst things I've ever dealt with. Turned into a 2 day project! and I don't even have the fronts done yet.

Oh boy, thanks for the warning I got nothing but R.U.S.T. !:shiver:

 

[JrTxJ]

I ended up going to home-depot and buying two new bolts and re-used 2 of the original ones for the bigger bushings on the leafs closest to the engine. the bolts were 1/2" x 5" and i grabbed a few washers to make them fit better. pb blast was my friend this weekend...

 

[klonestar]

I ended up going to home-depot and buying two new bolts and re-used 2 of the original ones for the bigger bushings on the leafs closest to the engine. the bolts were 1/2" x 5" and i grabbed a few washers to make them fit better. pb blast was my friend this weekend...

Im already stocking up on PB blaster and do plan on replacing all bolts using antiseize where applicable. Hoping I can reuse the front bolts as Im not looking forward to cutting up the frame to change them. But I will be prepared to cut cut cut....

Thanks again,
Ken

 

[gjxj]

Mine was relatively rust free and I think I spent two days on each side..
(including multiple runs for MORE sawzall blades..)

 

[klonestar]

Mine was relatively rust free and I think I spent two days on each side..
(including multiple runs for MORE sawzall blades..)

Wish they had a 'recommended tools' section because I have many years experience using a sawzall in a professional industrial environment and for metal cutting only one blade will do. Lennox Hackmaster! A bit pricey up front but one blade used properly will cut cleaner and outlast up to twenty other blades!

Though it would be nice not to I will be prepared to cut everything off and replace with new.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[ricot83]

MY best advice for u and if no one has said this yet i am greatly surprised, is if u notice that when u r loosening the front bolt and it doesnt seem to be going anywhere, IT WILL BREAK. Here is what i did after breaking the driver side one, I had to cut the spring eye off, then i had to cut the bushing up so i could get to the stupid metal sleeve that was on the inside of the bushing. The sleeve was seized right onto the bolt, this is what causes the bolt to snap when u r trying to get it out. So i then had to stick a heavy duty screw driver (flat blade) into the slit that is in this sleeve, and open up the sleeve so that the bolt would be free, this process took me a long long time to do, but resulted in getting the rest of the bolt out, i then ended up replacing the bolt all together and a nut as well with a grade 8 9/16" bolt and nut.
Now with my experience with that broken bolt on the driver's side, I made sure I could first loosen all the bolts on the passenger side before i did anything, just so i wouldnt get stuck halfway through the job and not have something to drive. Then i began to loosen the front eye bolt and noticed once again the freaking bolt and sleeve were seized together . so I began cutting once again with my electric angle grinder and let me tell u this side was a breeze compared to the other previous side .... I got the sleeve apart and loosened the bolt with no breaker bar, it was awesome. So I replaced my stock packs with the Quadratec HD packs along with a 3" AAL I had and it has been awesome, it has settled down to 20" from centercap to fender in the rear, i will probably end up addin g in my main leaf from the old pack eventually but i need to get an SYE first. All in all it was an awesome experience and i used all the tools i had no need to buy anything except that replacement bolt.

 

[klonestar]

MY best advice for u and if no one has said this yet i am greatly surprised, is if u notice that when u r loosening the front bolt and it doesnt seem to be going anywhere, IT WILL BREAK. Here is what i did after breaking the driver side one, I had to cut the spring eye off, then i had to cut the bushing up so i could get to the stupid metal sleeve that was on the inside of the bushing. The sleeve was seized right onto the bolt, this is what causes the bolt to snap when u r trying to get it out. So i then had to stick a heavy duty screw driver (flat blade) into the slit that is in this sleeve, and open up the sleeve so that the bolt would be free, this process took me a long long time to do, but resulted in getting the rest of the bolt out, i then ended up replacing the bolt all together and a nut as well with a grade 8 9/16" bolt and nut.
Now with my experience with that broken bolt on the driver's side, I made sure I could first loosen all the bolts on the passenger side before i did anything, just so i wouldnt get stuck halfway through the job and not have something to drive. Then i began to loosen the front eye bolt and noticed once again the freaking bolt and sleeve were seized together . so I began cutting once again with my electric angle grinder and let me tell u this side was a breeze compared to the other previous side .... I got the sleeve apart and loosened the bolt with no breaker bar, it was awesome. So I replaced my stock packs with the Quadratec HD packs along with a 3" AAL I had and it has been awesome, it has settled down to 20" from centercap to fender in the rear, i will probably end up addin g in my main leaf from the old pack eventually but i need to get an SYE first. All in all it was an awesome experience and i used all the tools i had no need to buy anything except that replacement bolt.

So your saying that if the front bolts dont come out very easy to go ahead and take the time to cut the spring at the bushing, get the bushing rubber off and pry the sleeve off which may save the front bolt? Just making sure. In that case I wont spend much time on trying to unscrew the front bolts.

I may just cut the upper shackle bolts as im replacing the shackles any way, the ubolts wont be a problem as their in great shape so my only problem area I believe is going to be the front. I dont mind taking the time to do the operation as you said. Think it might be quicker that way than to waste time otherwise.

How hard is it to replace the front bolt? Isnt that the one that you have to cut open the frame to access?

I dont have my Jeep here so cant just run out and look. (wont be on the road yet but will finally have my Jeep home soon!)

Thanks a bunch!
Ken

 

[ricot83]

if u do it the way i stated, you will know both A. if you can unbolt it without breaking anything or cutting any frame, and B. if u cant unbolt it easily then cutting the spring eye and sleeve, will save u a hell of a time. My driver's side took me forever until i decided to cut it, the pass side took no time at all it was great.

 

[klonestar]

if u do it the way i stated, you will know both A. if you can unbolt it without breaking anything or cutting any frame, and B. if u cant unbolt it easily then cutting the spring eye and sleeve, will save u a hell of a time. My driver's side took me forever until i decided to cut it, the pass side took no time at all it was great.

Good deal. Will have grinder and sawzall ready to do the job!

Thanks again,
Ken

 

[scrammy400]

I make a heavy duty spring for xjs i can make you a set if youd like. the lift is about an inch higher than stock but they keep the rear end up when i tow my trailer.

if your interested email me at [email protected]

These are the heaviest you can go without lifting it high

 

[scooter98xj]

did any of you have problems with vibrations from your drive line with the extra inch and a half? I just bought this same HD pack and want to know if I should order a TC drop kit now.

Also, did you guys put spacers in the front? I want my rear a little higher, but not too much. Anyone make a 1" spacer for the front?

 

[klonestar]

I make a heavy duty spring for xjs i can make you a set if youd like. the lift is about an inch higher than stock but they keep the rear end up when i tow my trailer.

if your interested email me at [email protected]

These are the heaviest you can go without lifting it high

I want to "settle" at 2-2 1/2" lift. (need to try to avoid other mods right now $$$$) How many leafs are in a pack? Will they hold up to a 1 1/2" Lift shackle? (which I have on the way)

If so I will email you for a price. The Quad ones im looking at end up about an inch over and are $135 a set plus $24 a pair shipping. FYI. On this set the second leaf down is pretty much full length.

Due to ($$$$crap happening) its still going to be a few weeks before I can get anything.

Thanks for the offer in any case!

edited: Yes Scooter you can get 1" spacers. Im going to avoid the TC drop when that time comes. (dont want anything under there lower, personal prefference) and im hoping staying under 3" I will get lucky and not need to do a SYE and driveshaft at this time.

 

[xjtrailrider]

I had the Quadratec HD springs, They are definetly not HD. Mine sagged after 3 months of towing a #3000 bass boat(#200 tongue wt.). I went to the OME constant heavy load springs in the rear and med duty coils front then used ACOS to adjust the front about an inch lower than the rear so that when it is loaded it is near level. It looks close to level either loaded or unloaded. Other mods for towing; 4.10 gears, Detroit Tru-Trac, 8 ply 30" BFG AT tires, AA S.Y.E., Tom Woods custom shaft. All of these mods give me better performance for towing and off-roading.

Thats my 2 cents worth anyway.

 

[Eagle]

did any of you have problems with vibrations from your drive line with the extra inch and a half? I just bought this same HD pack and want to know if I should order a TC drop kit now.

Also, did you guys put spacers in the front? I want my rear a little higher, but not too much. Anyone make a 1" spacer for the front?

Even the factory Up Country suspension has vibration problems. The vibrations with Up Country are severe enough that the factory has issued a TSB and a transfer case drop kit to "correct" the vibrations.