Thanks.
Yes, that's RichP and me - I selected brass because it doesn't rust (the first time I did a water pump, the bypass tube was bloody shot!) and I'm not sure why RichP used brass - he may have used galvy instead.
The hole in the water pump should be threaded 3/8" NPT, I don't recall the nipples I used offhand, but I'm sure I posted the lengths for the main nipple off of the water pump, and just used a shorty nipple (3", cut in half, most probably) for the stub for the hose to attach to and to give a smooth surface for the hose to grip to (using a little RTV Black to help the hose seal to the nipple.) Scuff up the smooth pipe surface with some 180 or 240 grit sandpaper, so the hose grips a little more...
Anyhow, I added the elbow to eliminate the need to use one moulded heater hose (which gets spendy...) and that's why I also decided (later) to make the heate plumbing out of copper tubing - cuts the need for heater hoses down to a few vibration stubs (you don't want rigid joints where you have relative motion.) There are a couple of refinements left that I'd like to make (a manual heater control valve, for instance - and clean up the measurements a bit) before I post anything substantive, but it's been running for three or four years without a hitch, so I'd call it "successful in its early stages."
A little experimentation with a few pipe nipples should prove fruitful for getting the lenghts. Searching for my posts on the subject (I'm sure I gave measurements - I don't know if RichP did...) should save you a few bucks on experiments...