Headlights

Having run both Hella E code and IPF lenses (on Jeep XJs and MJs) for approx. six years, I can't say there is any meaningful difference in performance between the two brands, but in the future I would probably stick with Hella - mainly due to great customer service frome Dave @ Susquehanna MotorSports - www.rallylights.com

One Hella lens (on daughter's Celica GT) took a beating from road grit... (the surface got pitted over time as if it were sandblasted) and developed a crack from a stone. OTOH the Hella & IPF lenses on my XJs and MJ have shown none of that... probably due to their much higher mounting height?

I prefer Hella bulbs, in 130/90 flavor, but would use 100/80 in a pinch. I have tried Hella 'xenon' (weak) IPF 'Magic-J' (weak and not long-lived) and IPF 170/110 (bright, but not long-lived, and quite expensive) The Hella bulbs have consistently given me good service life, at a reasonable $25/pair shipped.
 
woody said:
Having run both Hella E code and IPF lenses (on Jeep XJs and MJs) for approx. six years, I can't say there is any meaningful difference in performance between the two brands, but in the future I would probably stick with Hella - mainly due to great customer service frome Dave @ Susquehanna MotorSports - www.rallylights.com

One Hella lens (on daughter's Celica GT) took a beating from road grit... (the surface got pitted over time as if it were sandblasted) and developed a crack from a stone. OTOH the Hella & IPF lenses on my XJs and MJ have shown none of that... probably due to their much higher mounting height?

I prefer Hella bulbs, in 130/90 flavor, but would use 100/80 in a pinch. I have tried Hella 'xenon' (weak) IPF 'Magic-J' (weak and not long-lived) and IPF 170/110 (bright, but not long-lived, and quite expensive) The Hella bulbs have consistently given me good service life, at a reasonable $25/pair shipped.

Which illustrates why I use Hella so much for upgrade lighting - because it won't break the bank!

I'd still like to get mesh stone guards for my E-codes and my VP housings, but that can wait. I seem to catch more rocks with the windscreen anyhow...

5-90
 
While on the subject of headlights, does anybody have any experience using real hid lighting in an aftermarket lens such as the IPF. There are various kits available in various color temperatures. I like the idea of better lighting with less power draw. Some kits are cheaper than others , I don't want to get stuck with junk.

I want to stay as far away from blue as i can, every beat up junker import I see has the blue "HID LOOK" bulbs (remember when every import racer had to have neon green dual wiper blades!.:laugh: )
 
Bringing back the dead thread. (that rhymes) i went to the local WAL-MART and picked up some bumper lights for $20. these lights ar brighter than my normal headlights and i do not get flashed at. these things are great. they are a small rectangle and have a white lens with purple packaging. i don't remember the name. i will be making my fog light bar on top out of these. they come with all the wires and the switch. 2 per pack. i give these a big thumbs up concidering they are from WAL-MART.
 
IPF lamps and the "Fat Boy" IPF bulbs work nice, you need a harness to get everything out of the bulbs. Some XJs I have seen loose as much at 2-3 volts stock through the engine harness.

Only issue I have had with the IPF lens is that the front glass is smooth and they seem to get dirtier quicker than the cheaper glass. I'm not sure why that is.
 
Mr. Downer here

I spend a lot of time on the road. So a quick and easy to obtain replacement part is important to me. I want to walk in and pick the part off the shelf at most parts stores. Maybe even get it cheap at K-mart. Pop it in and be back on the road. Setting as an ordered part arrives is a big waste of my road time. Or driving around one eyed is not my idea of smart.
If you could do a quick "fallback" if needed then that would be cool. But I never want to set under a street light on a rainy night as I rewire again. Just my way of looking at things.
 
shimmy said:
like mentioned previously... get some HELLA vision pluses or IPF's. i run HELLA headlamps with McCulloch HID's. ive ran this setup for 3 years now, never had any issues. HID's are a worthwhile upgrade if you drive at night frequently.

Wait, you have HID lights in Halogen Housings? You must be blinding everyone on the road!
 
badron said:
Mr. Downer here

I spend a lot of time on the road. So a quick and easy to obtain replacement part is important to me. I want to walk in and pick the part off the shelf at most parts stores. Maybe even get it cheap at K-mart. Pop it in and be back on the road. Setting as an ordered part arrives is a big waste of my road time. Or driving around one eyed is not my idea of smart.
If you could do a quick "fallback" if needed then that would be cool. But I never want to set under a street light on a rainy night as I rewire again. Just my way of looking at things.
What your replacing is the lens. It alows you to run a H-4 bulb in place of the stock whole bulb. The plug is the same for both lights so if one goes out you can still get a replacement pretty much anywhere that sells lights. Infact your more likely to find an H-4 bulb at the filling station then the stock bulb. If you where to break the replacement lens you can still replace it with a stock one. The wiring harness upgraid is just running seprate wires from the battery to the lights using the factory wiring to trigger relays. It provides a true 13.4v to the light.
 
I've been running the IPF lenses and Magic J bulbs for 3 years with no problems and I love them. The pattren and light output is so much more definded and clear compared to the stock one it replaced. No problems with the bulbs although I would like even more poweer output so driving lights are next. Lenses have held up grear, nice cutoff pattren and durable. Same with the bulbs no issues there.
 
With conversion so easy to stock lamp if needed im much more intrudes in this mod. Thanks for the info.
I have done the relay upgrade with the stock lamps. There is a noticeable improvement just by getting full voltage to them.
With a twist to the relay setup you can automatically fallback to the factory system. The lights will be dimmer. But you will not be in the dark.
!!!!!!!!!!!WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This setup will NOT work if your new lamps draw much more currant then the stock system.
The factory leads that are normally used as control voltage for relay is first run to a standalone inso post placed near the relay. A fused lead (2 amp) is then run from post to the coil of the relay. Then one large or several smaller diodes wired in parallel with the capacity of about 2 times the load of the lamps. Are then wired to the output or lamp side of the relay.
Normal the factory wires will supply voltage to the fused line and close the relay. The lamps then drawing most of the load right off the battery due to it's higher voltage at that point.
The diode(s) instead of a simple lead are needed to keep this setup from becoming self sustaining after the control voltage is applied.
If any part of the relay falls. Current from the stock system is pulled from the diodes to the lamps and they stay on, dim but on. If the coil in the relay is shorted to a dead ground the fuse blows and the lamps draw off the stock system again.
If your lamps draw more currant then the stock system can handle or as a last ditch backup. Wire one big ass relay bypass switch. Mount it as close to the relay as you can and still get to it.
 
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