Headlights wiring problem

Ecomike

Ecomike

NAXJA# 2091
Location
MilkyWay Galaxy
Problem, headlights cutting out:

I replaced the head lights switch, and tightened up the harness pin connections, and the problem stopped for a while. Now it is back, but this time the head lights are stuck on bright (the steering column toggle for brights/normal headlights is stuck on brights).

I plan to work on the steering column to fix the bright/normal headlights switch in the column, but I am wondering if I should be checking elsewhere, like a relay for headlights? I don't think the ignition switch is involved in the high current path, but I guess i should check the fuse box for lose contacts.

I am guessing the headlight switch is overheating by being run on brights only, all the time?

It's an 89 XJ.

So, does anyone have any bright ideas for this?
 
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I don't think the factory setup had any relays for the headlamps. I might be wrong, but I don't think I am. I had a similar issue with my '97. I installed some IPF headlamp replacements with a set of their Super Low Beam H4 bulbs. About 2-3 months after the install the headlights would just turn off randomly. Then it progressed to headlights and dash lights. I did some searching and found my factory headlamp switch was melted pretty badly. So, I sourced a new switch and wired it in and stepped up to the ARB M002 upgraded wiring harness and all issues went away. You may want to double check your main headlight switch.
 
I know that your's is way older, but the 2000 current just runs from the PDC to the headlight switch to the junction box (separate fuse for each filament) to the light bulbs. People often write about adding relays to improve stock lighting or upgrade bulbs. You would hope that the stock switch would be good for running continuous high beams, but the switches do melt sometimes.
 
I just recently had a similar issue and I found that the connector by the air box was all corroded and nasty. Apparently the purple with white wire had burnt up and caused me grief. I don't know why they felt the need to put a non weather pack connector under the hood. :dunno:
 
I suspect your model has the GM steering column and attendant switches, same as my '89. I maintained a fleet of GM trucks for a long time (35 years). The later models (87+) had problems with the dimmer and headlight switches, and also the tail light socket boards melting if the lights were used a lot.

On my '89 and '90 Cherokees I used headlight relays mounted near the battery to bypass the stock switches. Use a fused wire from the battery to supply power to the relays and the wires from the dimmer switch to control them. This way the current that runs the lights doesn't have to travel from the battery through the firewall, through the headlight and dimmer switches and back to the headlights. Besides saving the more expensive switches, the lights will be brighter!
 
Fonger said:
I don't think the factory setup had any relays for the headlamps. I might be wrong, but I don't think I am. I had a similar issue with my '97. I installed some IPF headlamp replacements with a set of their Super Low Beam H4 bulbs. About 2-3 months after the install the headlights would just turn off randomly. Then it progressed to headlights and dash lights. I did some searching and found my factory headlamp switch was melted pretty badly. So, I sourced a new switch and wired it in and stepped up to the ARB M002 upgraded wiring harness and all issues went away. You may want to double check your main headlight switch.
Click to expand...

Head light switch is 2 months old. The dimmer, dash lights part had died, and the head light part was on its last legs.
 
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lawsoncl said:
Yup, no stock relays on an 89. I think the headlight hi/low switch is actually near the base of the column and not too bad to replace.
Click to expand...

Yah, it's on the left side. 1/3 of the way down. and involved in the ignition switch to ignition key mechanism "wire" control linkage as recall. I know I had to work with it every time I replaced the actual electrical ignition switch, on my 85 & 87.
 
89 headlight switch is going out AGAIN!!! Only been 2.5 years, and maybe 15-20,000 miles of use, not all at night.

Anyone know where to get a quality heavy duty replacement switch, other than a stealership?
 
Ecomike said:
89 headlight switch is going out AGAIN!!! Only been 2.5 years, and maybe 15-20,000 miles of use, not all at night.

Anyone know where to get a quality heavy duty replacement switch, other than a stealership?
Click to expand...

Why not do a relay setup for the headlights? It certainly takes the load off the questionably designed switch and somewhat thin stock wiring. I did this a long time ago, and went from getting 11 volts at the headlights to full battery voltage. I also installed a set of the AutoPal e-code headlights with 55/100 watt H4 bulbs. Massive improvement. I never get flashed with the low beams with their nice sharp cutoff and the high beams are incredible.
 
Ecomike said:
89 headlight switch is going out AGAIN!!! Only been 2.5 years, and maybe 15-20,000 miles of use, not all at night.

Anyone know where to get a quality heavy duty replacement switch, other than a stealership?
Click to expand...

Just do this and you'll have lighta that are about 30% brighter and no more heavy amp load on your switch.

http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--9003-Heavy-Duty-Headlight-Upgrade-Wiring-Harness-PRD7540.aspx
Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
　
　
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.
 
cruiser54 said:
Just do this and you'll have lighta that are about 30% brighter and no more heavy amp load on your switch.

http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--9003-Heavy-Duty-Headlight-Upgrade-Wiring-Harness-PRD7540.aspx
Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
　
　
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.
Click to expand...

That sounds way to cheap, simple and fast for a Jeep! LOL, So I think I will try this one, LOL!:patriot:
 
Is that one the best one available? I take it you have used this for a good while?
 
These are the AutoPal headlights I mentioned. http://tinyurl.com/7x7ap65. There is also a diamond version of these which is a little different, but I've heard mixed reviews on those. The cibie snobs will rag on them as not being as nice, but they are $40 shipped to your door versus $300. Versus $20 for a set of sealed beams. I've run them with either the napa house branded 55/100 or 80/100 bulbs about $8 each.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-H6054...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cf8f40eb7
 
Ecomike said:
Is that one the best one available? I take it you have used this for a good while?
Click to expand...

I don't think it is the best available but it is apparently adequate and is probably best bang for your buck. Step up in quality would be Susquehenna Motorsports, they have a pre-made H4 harness. I have one and am still planning on reworking the relay/power connection end of it to make it better, but I'm into massive overkill like that. Main differences are heavier gauge wire and better quality relays and connectors. My one dislike about the SM harness is the single fuse and power connection and single relays for low and high beam, I would like independent fuses and relays for each filament so that if there's a failure I don't lose all lights at once. Workin' on it... slowly but surely... gotta get my cruise in first though so I don't take the real estate for the actuator for my relay/fuse block.
 
I've installed three of them and had no trouble in 2 years. You'll love how much better your headlights will work. If it takes you longer than half hour to install with my instructions I'll be surprised. Oughta just get one for each of the Jeeps. In the long run it's cheaper and easier than buying and replacing headlight switches.
 
Getting the high amp load off the switch by using relays ... and improved lighting with proper gauged wire ... is a win win situation ... ;)

... as is, then getting some good or better quality, H4 e-code housings and bulbs.



lawsoncl said:
The cibie snobs
Click to expand...


:laugh2::laugh2:

That would be all us 97+ update drivers of export models - provided with Cibies from the factory ?? .... :D
 
carves said:
That would be all us 97+ update drivers of export models - provided with Cibies from the factory ?? .... :D
Click to expand...

Just alluding to some of the rather heated threads about the AutoPals versus Cibies or other higher-end headlights. Everyone who got the AutoPals loved em and thought they were a great improvement. Those who went high-end felt compelled to comment how theirs were much better. To me they are a great improvement for relatively cheap. Sure you can go top of the line in cost if you want a little better, but why?
 
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