Harold of the Rocks

[chedisme]

fugin rain. my tent is not a water tight as it used to be. it basicly lets all the rain through but concentrates it into 15 spots. and 3 of them are right where I need to be working.

my new rocker is covered in water. I guess I need to wait till tomorrow.

also my dom is in for my LCAs but my dads truck is down so I cant go get it yet.

 

[MoparManiac]

fugin rain. my tent is not a water tight as it used to be. it basicly lets all the rain through but concentrates it into 15 spots. and 3 of them are right where I need to be working.

my new rocker is covered in water. I guess I need to wait till tomorrow.

also my dom is in for my LCAs but my dads truck is down so I cant go get it yet.

Yup, even with a tent it sucks trying to get stuff done in shitty weather.

There were always two puddles of water underneath both my front and rear axles.

Sucked for all of my suspension work.

 

[Vanimal]

i spent too many days and nights working on my back in the snow when i drove crappy old vehicles and lived in CT. i dont miss it.

 

[chedisme]

dam its supposed to rain for the next 2 day. ive got to figure out how to dry my tent up. maybe ill buy a tarp and put it over it.

 

[chedisme]

van you mind getting me a pic with your door open so I can get a better ref point on how high you went.

 

[iaml3lue]

hey I started to read this last night, I haven't gotten all the way thru but I have a question. you have the Clayton rear link kit are you going to be changing your front long arms or modify it to work ?

 

[Vanimal]

van you mind getting me a pic with your door open so I can get a better ref point on how high you went.

sure thing, ill snap one later. but i can tell you i cut right at the step right above where you did. basically that flat section in the door jamb is at the same level as the top of the 2x6. about 2-2.5" above where you cut.

 

[chedisme]

hey I started to read this last night, I haven't gotten all the way thru but I have a question. you have the Clayton rear link kit are you going to be changing your front long arms or modify it to work ?

im not sure what you mean. the clayton rear kit has its own separate Xmember that welds in at the spot where the Uni-rails are double thick. its totally independent of the front suspension.

but im currently in the process of building a custom 3 link for the front. Iv been debating on if im even going to use the clayton kit when I do the 4 link, cause it uses rubber bushings on one end of all the arms and I haven't had good experiences with rubber end and one tons

and

and those were brand new. first trip.

but thats way down my list so Im not wasting too much time thinking about it.

 

[foxwar71]

Stefan, just look thru my build. I trimmed my doors and went up to the bottom of the pillars with my rockers.

 

[chedisme]

Stefan, just look thru my build. I trimmed my doors and went up to the bottom of the pillars with my rockers.

I forgot you had a jeep. Ill do that when i cant sleep tonite.

 

[iaml3lue]

i don't know if its new or what but the current coil conversion has two bars that run to there front crosmember

 

[OverlandZJ]

Iv been debating on if im even going to use the clayton kit when I do the 4 link, cause it uses rubber bushings on one end of all the arms and I haven't had good experiences with rubber end and one tons

Think you'd have issues with the Clevites used by Claytons? I can see the RE tapered failing as it's a common occurance. Part of the reason i ditched my RE LA's.

 

[chedisme]

Idk. To tell you the truth. Ill probably run them the way they are and if they blow up ill cut them off and weld in some other kind of hard joint.

And blue i know mine didnt come with anything to connect the 2 x members. But that sounds like a good idea.

 

[iaml3lue]

ya i have a tnt la kit and i think im gonna sell it and get his front and rear thanks for the answers

 

[Vanimal]

van you mind getting me a pic with your door open so I can get a better ref point on how high you went.

here you go.

 

[Vanimal]

Idk. To tell you the truth. Ill probably run them the way they are and if they blow up ill cut them off and weld in some other kind of hard joint.

And blue i know mine didnt come with anything to connect the 2 x members. But that sounds like a good idea.

just use chromoly tubes and heims. 70 bucks for the 2"odx.25wall chromoly, 260 for 4 1.25 heims and all associated parts.

 

[chedisme]

thanks for the pics. you didnt go as high as I thought. looking at yours an ross's build I might go higher.

and I would get fancy tube, but I already have the links

and I doubt I could get the tube for that price any way. its was like 100$ for 2 4' 2od .25 wall dom from my supplier. Im sure cromo would be more

 

[chedisme]

I was just reading through my own thread and I found my justification for the IROKS lol

I think I have decided against the creppys. at least for now. Iv done some reading and the IROKS actuly have pretty good reviews. and they come in 37/14/16.5 which will work on the H1s. and at $332 a tire there alot cheaper then the creepys.

plus if i get one of the(if not the) best tires out there that leaves me nowhere to go in the future.

 

[Vanimal]

and I doubt I could get the tube for that price any way. its was like 100$ for 2 4' 2od .25 wall dom from my supplier. Im sure cromo would be more

why couldnt you get it for that price? it was about 70 shipped.... cant imagine UPS would charge a ton more to ship it to you vs me.

 

[chedisme]

idk. I was assuming you got it from a local supplier. where did you order it from?