Harold of the Rocks

But if I do that there is this mean guy on pirate that will yell at me. he all ready did so to Collin and vetteboy.
Psssh.... I'm with Ross. Mine are also wider than stock, they sit better that way. About 5/8" per side IIRC.
 
Psssh.... I'm with Ross. Mine are also wider than stock, they sit better that way. About 5/8" per side IIRC.

You used a tape measure?!?! LOSER!!! :roflmao:

:D

To stay almost on topic...glad to see another chili pepper red xj getting big boy axles :thumbup:
 
So I got a few minuets to strip the axle some more. I couldent get the rusty TRE nuts off so I cut the right one off with my grinder and cutoff wheel.

then this happened...

2011-11-13_20-50-12_99.jpg


the cutoff wheel blew up and hit me right in my face so that kinda slowed down my progress.


I found half of the wheel about 150 feet from where I was standing when it happened.
 
jesus. You got off easy, those can do some serious damage.

Wear gloves and preferably a full face mask when you're using an angle grinder... I have a lot of ER bills from learning and relearning that lesson.
 
Kind of update.

Im about to buy a set of Spring-less high steer arms form a vendor on pirate. Just waiting on a price

For the steering Im planning on basically copying TMR's DIY kit HERE

So Im going to buy two 5 or 6' lengths of 1.5" .250" wall DOM tube from my local steel place. and get the weld in threaded inserts and Hiems.

Do you guys think I should get 3/4 or 7/8 joints?


also Iv decided I am going to run a Johnny joint instead of a poly bushing for my upper link.

Should I be worried about it deforming when welding it in?

as for the track bar, Im going to see if i can make my RE one work. if not Ill have to build a pan hard I guess.

I cant wait for school to end.

School+Jeep=Nothing getting done
 
I'd run 7/8 heims from ruffstuff.

I would run only hard joints on that one upper. Aka any cartridge joint (JJ, RE, etc.) or heim.

You weld the sleeve first, then install the JJ.
 
I'd run 7/8 heims from ruffstuff.

I would run only hard joints on that one upper. Aka any cartridge joint (JJ, RE, etc.) or heim.

You weld the sleeve first, then install the JJ.

ok Ill check them out. I just used tmr cause they show a detailed list of all the components. I was leaning toward 7/8.

I was only planing on running the JJ on the upper. My lower arms have the bushing in the arm.

and I figured i would weld just the sleeve but I wasent sure If it would go out of round or something.
 
go easy on em, weld a little at a time, and they shouldn't (from what I've read.)
 
You'll be fine.

Go in thirds.

When you do the weld-in inserts, be very careful. You have less than 1/8" wall on that insert where the threads are so they can distort pretty easily.

Weld 1/4 of the way around and stop until it cools enough so you can grab it with your bare hand.
 
You'll be fine.

Go in thirds.

When you do the weld-in inserts, be very careful. You have less than 1/8" wall on that insert where the threads are so they can distort pretty easily.

Weld 1/4 of the way around and stop until it cools enough so you can grab it with your bare hand.

Aren't you supposed to thread a bolt, or the joint itself, in before welding the insert to prevent distortion?
 
When you do the weld-in inserts, be very careful. You have less than 1/8" wall on that insert where the threads are so they can distort pretty easily.

Weld 1/4 of the way around and stop until it cools enough so you can grab it with your bare hand.

x2 but maybe not cool enough to touch, thats a little overboard.

When I my tierod and draglink (7/8x3/4 heims) I welded 1/4 way and rotated between the four ends. It was warm enough that I didnt wanna hold it, but everything threaded together fine.
 
You'll be fine.

Go in thirds.

When you do the weld-in inserts, be very careful. You have less than 1/8" wall on that insert where the threads are so they can distort pretty easily.

Weld 1/4 of the way around and stop until it cools enough so you can grab it with your bare hand.


ok will do. and the bolt idea sound good too.

But wont a 1.5" tube with a .25 wall have an 1.25" ID?
 
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