Harold of the Rocks

Loaded=pads, Unloaded=pad that ish up.

Builds looking good, keep it up.

thanks


ok so new order of plans then

Set up my new XJ cocoon, where dana 30's undergo a metamorphosis and turn into beautiful 60's

strip and gut the beast, cut ~2" off the cast driver side leaf perch, remove the rust, and paint it up. Ill remove the paint in the areas that are getting welded when it comes time to weld stuff on.

heres a pic of my 60

2011-11-02_09-25-54_545.jpg


I found that the stock steering is not um to the task of having the entire weight of the axle dropped on the corner of one tire from a height of about 2.5'. when flipped it off the back of the truck it snapped in half at the adjusting collar.

Im going to use the stock rims for now. maybe ill paint them

2011-11-02_09-27-01_957.jpg



heres my idea for the pas side upper control arm mount, and tell me if this is over kill.

Im going to make two 1/4" tabs that extend up to the correct height and meld them to the tube. then im going to make a kind of pyramid that sits around it out of 3/16s and weld that together and to the tube.

I was thinking mabe i could make it all out of 3/16. but Im not sure

I was board in class and drew up some pics there not the best but they should give an idea of what Im talking about

2011-11-07_16-58-31_803.jpg


Im going to leave the driver side off. and as for the coil buckets and LCA brackets Im leaning toward Balistic fab, but havent decided yet.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/XJ--TJ-Jeep-combo-bracket-upgrade-kit_p_1542.html

Iv also been looking at claytons front axle bracket kit. its nice but its alot of coin.
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/18_71/products_id/83
 
Don't cut off any casting on the driver's side if you can help it.

ok so Ill hold off on that untill i get the brackets. I was only going to do that because Iv seen it done on all of the 60 threads Iv seen so far.

Oh and I learned that your a C**k snuggler if you argue with a guy about outboarding springs. YaY pirate!
 
also I was looking at the TNT truss for my 60. I know alot of people said its a wast of money, but I have the right year 60 so i shouldent have to cut it to get it to work. and Im still pretty new at all this and have 0 help. Im the most mechanically inclined person i know out of my local friends.

so given all that is it still a bad Idea?
Looks like I'm late to the party and you already decided against it, but yes. Bad idea. Horrible waste of time & money on my part.
but besides that I just got back from getting the axles!!!!

they are insane! I want to go work on them now! AHHHHHH!!!!
Hope you got a good deal on them.
What are you plans suspension wise (maybe I missed it)?
I wouldn't worry about the calipers until the axle is under the Jeep. Same with teh kingpins. Strip all of the stuff off/out of the housing for now, then mod the housing and just before you put the housing under the Jeep for mock-up, put all new king pins, calipers and such on.
^ This. Saves your back from the 100 times you'll be moving it around. No need for anything besides Inner C to Inner C for most of the work.
The dual piston ones are like 100 bucks each... After the core charge.
Mine were half that, loaded, no core. Reman Centrics, IIRC, came in as Daytons. They work.
strip and gut the beast, cut ~2" off the cast driver side leaf perch, remove the rust, and paint it up. Ill remove the paint in the areas that are getting welded when it comes time to weld stuff on.
NO! Don't cut any off the cast off. You have plenty of room on that axle for mounts.
Im going to leave the driver side off. and as for the coil buckets and LCA brackets Im leaning toward Balistic fab, but havent decided yet.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/XJ--TJ-Jeep-combo-bracket-upgrade-kit_p_1542.html

Iv also been looking at claytons front axle bracket kit. its nice but its alot of coin.
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/18_71/products_id/83
For that kinda of coin buy a 24' length of 1/4"x5" plate and be done with everything. It only takes a few minutes to make brackets.
Make the brackets fit the suspension (control arms, coils, etc), not the other way around.

Don't cut off any casting on the driver's side if you can help it.
Worth quoting and saying again.
 
thats alot to quote so Im not gonna try. haha

for my suspension Im just going to run my RE longarms. no real modifications in that department. I feel like it works well enough. I do however plan on leaving out the driver upper mount to save welding to the cast, or making a truss to bridge over it.

On the subject of making my own brackets. I guess I could, but I dont have alot of metal fab tools. I basicly have a 4.5" angle grinder, a dremel, a corded drill, and 2 welders. I have a chop saw I snaged from work but its meant for metal studs and doesent like cutting through even 16ga steel

and dont worry I wont cut the perch.

Colin pointed me to a site that hasthe calipers for a fair price.
 
thats alot to quote so Im not gonna try. haha

for my suspension Im just going to run my RE longarms. no real modifications in that department. I feel like it works well enough. I do however plan on leaving out the driver upper mount to save welding to the cast, or making a truss to bridge over it.

On the subject of making my own brackets. I guess I could, but I dont have alot of metal fab tools. I basicly have a 4.5" angle grinder, a dremel, a corded drill, and 2 welders. I have a chop saw I snaged from work but its meant for metal studs and doesent like cutting through even 16ga steel

and dont worry I wont cut the perch.

Colin pointed me to a site that hasthe calipers for a fair price.
No problem with that, can't you run it as the radius arm minus and arm? Not sure what size bolts are on the RE arms, but if they are the stock 10mm that wouldn't be a good idea, so scratch that.

To build axle brackets all you really need is that 4.5" angle grinder, a good 1/2" chuck corded drill, and a vise. Add in some abrasives and you're good to go. The dremel is about useless on steel doing that kind of work.
 
niether me nor colin cut our perches and we have late 80's axles, anyone that has didnt do there research corectly, and like bill says a angle grinder, lots-o-cutoff wheels and a drill and you can whip up mounts in no time
 
so I didnt have the hour + commute home today so I got some stuff done. I hate that it gets dark so Fing early!

but the 60 is now bracket free
2011-11-10_15-49-21_266.jpg


it was too dark by the time I finished so thats the only pic I have.

and I just realized I have these!
2011-11-10_17-26-22_619.jpg


there axle side coil buckets from Clayton, part of his rear 4 link kit that Iv been sitting on untill I was comfortable welding to the unibody. I think Im just going to use them for the front.

Problem is I think Im going to have to trim a little off the cast perch. the bucket fits but there's no room to lay a bead. its snug between the knuckle and perch.

either that or maybe I could cut one of the legs off it and move it in .5-1 inch or so.
what do you guys think?
 
Modify the bracket to fit around the perch, no need to cut the perch.
 
Im sure Colin will chime in here, he sat his coil buckets right on top on the tube/perch and boxed in the top of his LCA mounts at the same time. I did similar but my mounts are raised up a little since I have a big dumb truss.


i6jcc8.jpg
 
That's all well and good Ross but he has a 78/9 D60 so our setups don't really help him.

Stefan, can you not get underneath the coil mount to weld the inside of it? You could always just weld the inside of the bracket where it buts up to the perch, and then weld both sides of the other side of the bracket.

If you tie a lower control arm mount into those brackets after that, you'll be fine.
 
That's all well and good Ross but he has a 78/9 D60 so our setups don't really help him.

This is true, there shouldnt be any need for clearance then.

Push the lower coil buckets out a little wider then factory. Mine are like an inch wider, it helped me clear my center section with the narrow job, but it also helped my coils sit better. After plating the frame there too, it give a little more room. My buckets are also straight up on the axle tube to push the front axle forward ~2".
 
That's all well and good Ross but he has a 78/9 D60 so our setups don't really help him.

Stefan, can you not get underneath the coil mount to weld the inside of it? You could always just weld the inside of the bracket where it buts up to the perch, and then weld both sides of the other side of the bracket.

If you tie a lower control arm mount into those brackets after that, you'll be fine.

I think I can weld the inside on both sides. but none of the outsides

I was thinking I could tie in the LCAs and that would help alot. I just dont have alot of experience with this stuff so I wasnt sure that would be enough.

This is true, there shouldnt be any need for clearance then.

Push the lower coil buckets out a little wider then factory. Mine are like an inch wider, it helped me clear my center section with the narrow job, but it also helped my coils sit better. After plating the frame there too, it give a little more room. My buckets are also straight up on the axle tube to push the front axle forward ~2".

But if I do that there is this mean guy on pirate that will yell at me. he all ready did so to Collin and vetteboy.
 
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