XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
:dunno: Mine cost me $76/ea before getting $20 back for the cores I havent turned in yet.
Damn the 44 ones are different then.. I could have sworn they were the same pn
:dunno: Mine cost me $76/ea before getting $20 back for the cores I havent turned in yet.
Damn the 44 ones are different then.. I could have sworn they were the same pn
Loaded=pads, Unloaded=pad that ish up.
Builds looking good, keep it up.
Don't cut off any casting on the driver's side if you can help it.
Looks like I'm late to the party and you already decided against it, but yes. Bad idea. Horrible waste of time & money on my part.also I was looking at the TNT truss for my 60. I know alot of people said its a wast of money, but I have the right year 60 so i shouldent have to cut it to get it to work. and Im still pretty new at all this and have 0 help. Im the most mechanically inclined person i know out of my local friends.
so given all that is it still a bad Idea?
Hope you got a good deal on them.but besides that I just got back from getting the axles!!!!
they are insane! I want to go work on them now! AHHHHHH!!!!
^ This. Saves your back from the 100 times you'll be moving it around. No need for anything besides Inner C to Inner C for most of the work.I wouldn't worry about the calipers until the axle is under the Jeep. Same with teh kingpins. Strip all of the stuff off/out of the housing for now, then mod the housing and just before you put the housing under the Jeep for mock-up, put all new king pins, calipers and such on.
Mine were half that, loaded, no core. Reman Centrics, IIRC, came in as Daytons. They work.The dual piston ones are like 100 bucks each... After the core charge.
NO! Don't cut any off the cast off. You have plenty of room on that axle for mounts.strip and gut the beast, cut ~2" off the cast driver side leaf perch, remove the rust, and paint it up. Ill remove the paint in the areas that are getting welded when it comes time to weld stuff on.
For that kinda of coin buy a 24' length of 1/4"x5" plate and be done with everything. It only takes a few minutes to make brackets.Im going to leave the driver side off. and as for the coil buckets and LCA brackets Im leaning toward Balistic fab, but havent decided yet.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/XJ--TJ-Jeep-combo-bracket-upgrade-kit_p_1542.html
Iv also been looking at claytons front axle bracket kit. its nice but its alot of coin.
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/18_71/products_id/83
Worth quoting and saying again.Don't cut off any casting on the driver's side if you can help it.
No problem with that, can't you run it as the radius arm minus and arm? Not sure what size bolts are on the RE arms, but if they are the stock 10mm that wouldn't be a good idea, so scratch that.thats alot to quote so Im not gonna try. haha
for my suspension Im just going to run my RE longarms. no real modifications in that department. I feel like it works well enough. I do however plan on leaving out the driver upper mount to save welding to the cast, or making a truss to bridge over it.
On the subject of making my own brackets. I guess I could, but I dont have alot of metal fab tools. I basicly have a 4.5" angle grinder, a dremel, a corded drill, and 2 welders. I have a chop saw I snaged from work but its meant for metal studs and doesent like cutting through even 16ga steel
and dont worry I wont cut the perch.
Colin pointed me to a site that hasthe calipers for a fair price.
That's all well and good Ross but he has a 78/9 D60 so our setups don't really help him.
That's all well and good Ross but he has a 78/9 D60 so our setups don't really help him.
Stefan, can you not get underneath the coil mount to weld the inside of it? You could always just weld the inside of the bracket where it buts up to the perch, and then weld both sides of the other side of the bracket.
If you tie a lower control arm mount into those brackets after that, you'll be fine.
This is true, there shouldnt be any need for clearance then.
Push the lower coil buckets out a little wider then factory. Mine are like an inch wider, it helped me clear my center section with the narrow job, but it also helped my coils sit better. After plating the frame there too, it give a little more room. My buckets are also straight up on the axle tube to push the front axle forward ~2".