Harold of the Rocks

also I was looking at the TNT truss for my 60. I know alot of people said its a wast of money, but I have the right year 60 so i shouldent have to cut it to get it to work. and Im still pretty new at all this and have 0 help. Im the most mechanically inclined person i know out of my local friends.

so given all that is it still a bad Idea?
Well, even though it is the right year 60, you might still have to cut/bend to make it work. I know Bill (RCman) and I (And one other person that I've met in the past) have the TNT truss, Bill on his 60 and me on my 44. All of us have had fitment issues right out of the box. Mine sat alright on the passenger side of the tube, but if you looked at the drivers side the whole thing was twisted and not touching the tube.
 
I think it comes down to what you want to do Stefan.

Right year D60 being the 78-79?

I'd just buy someone's bracket kit and use that instead. Truss is usually unnecessary on a D60, so just put the brackets where they fit (even take measurements off your D30 if you really want them stock) and blast them on. Being that year D60, you should have plenty of room on the driver's side of the tube (assuming you leave it full width) to fit everything.

Test fit everything at full bump.
 
I think it comes down to what you want to do Stefan.

Right year D60 being the 78-79?

I'd just buy someone's bracket kit and use that instead. Truss is usually unnecessary on a D60, so just put the brackets where they fit (even take measurements off your D30 if you really want them stock) and blast them on. Being that year D60, you should have plenty of room on the driver's side of the tube (assuming you leave it full width) to fit everything.

Test fit everything at full bump.

Yes its a 78 and im going to leave it full width. I was looking at the balistic mounts also. I think i might need to man up and do seperate mounts. What about the mount that goes ontop of the pumpkin? Im alittle nervous about welding to cast. Or will it not fall there because of the width? Idk i guess i just have to get the axle first.
 
I'd look into getting/making some type of bridge truss so you don't have to rely on welding to cast.

The other option is leaving off the upper arm on the driver's side, and beefing up the passenger side arm (just upgrade the bolt sizes) to handle the extra load.
 
Take the Dana 60 and sell it for $$$

Buy an 80's Dana 60 for $$ (notice less $$ signs!)

Purchase Jeep stuff with extra monees
 
Also depends on how good of a deal the 78-79 D60 was.

If it was cheap, I'd keep it because of this...

Im the most mechanically inclined person i know out of my local friends.

He can't just lug an 85-91 D60 over to someone he doesn't know and expect them to weld to cast for cheap.

Not to mention how do you know the person knows how (not that it's hard).
 
Ross is a genius.

Also, less maintainence...no stupid control arms to worry about anymore.
 
I don't know about anyone elses experiances with ballistic but I think they have horrible customer service. mine have BTF trusses with the integrated diff covers.
 
yea I dont trust my self to weld to cast... yet.

no, no leafs

and I like the 70's more then the 80's. I mean come on that 80's show only lasted like 3 episodes.

I was thinking of running the classic radius arm 3link.

still looking into whos stuff I want to use.

but besides that I just got back from getting the axles!!!!

they are insane! I want to go work on them now! AHHHHHH!!!!
 
I don't know about anyone elses experiances with ballistic but I think they have horrible customer service. mine have BTF trusses with the integrated diff covers.

i ordered over the phone and spoke to dave, he hooked me up, i waited 3 weeks, but all the parts were there, and the laser cut brackets were really nice. I love all the parts i have from them.
 
yea I dont trust my self to weld to cast... yet.

no, no leafs

and I like the 70's more then the 80's. I mean come on that 80's show only lasted like 3 episodes.

I was thinking of running the classic radius arm 3link.

still looking into whos stuff I want to use.

but besides that I just got back from getting the axles!!!!

they are insane! I want to go work on them now! AHHHHHH!!!!

..on my front 30, I cut the driverside mount off the housing, welded the new UCA bracket to the cast housing, then trimmed my Ballistic truss around it, and welded the mount to the truss for extra support..it appeared to me that the castings still have high iron content, the welding went way better than I expected using a MIG..(but as mentioned I still tied the truss in as well, ...)..been holding up fine ever since ..
 
So my first plan of action is to pull the wheels off and get new calipers. Atleast one is shot. They are the dual piston ones. Should i stick with those or should i get the single piston ones that are cheaper.

Also i was planing on rebuilding the kingpins.

Next will be bracket removal time. And rust removal.

Im going to buy a car port tent so i can have shelter when i work.
 
So my first plan of action is to pull the wheels off and get new calipers. Atleast one is shot. They are the dual piston ones. Should i stick with those or should i get the single piston ones that are cheaper.

Also i was planing on rebuilding the kingpins.

Next will be bracket removal time. And rust removal.

Im going to buy a car port tent so i can have shelter when i work.

I wouldn't worry about the calipers until the axle is under the Jeep. Same with teh kingpins. Strip all of the stuff off/out of the housing for now, then mod the housing and just before you put the housing under the Jeep for mock-up, put all new king pins, calipers and such on.
 
I wouldn't worry about the calipers until the axle is under the Jeep. Same with teh kingpins. Strip all of the stuff off/out of the housing for now, then mod the housing and just before you put the housing under the Jeep for mock-up, put all new king pins, calipers and such on.

smart
 
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