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Gearing for 35s?

Re: Gearing

4.56/1 or deeper depending on lots of things..
 
Re: Gearing

auto or manual? 4cyl or 6cyl? I'd get 4.56s or 4.88s assuming a 6cyl, possibly deeper. Warning, the 4.88 d30 gearset has been found to be weak by a bunch of people. Whether that's the fault of the dana 30, the gearset design, the driver, or the installer depends on who you ask.
 
Re: Gearing

auto 6 cyl
20121031_164507.jpg
 
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Re: Gearing

auto or manual? 4cyl or 6cyl? I'd get 4.56s or 4.88s assuming a 6cyl, possibly deeper. Warning, the 4.88 d30 gearset has been found to be weak by a bunch of people. Whether that's the fault of the dana 30, the gearset design, the driver, or the installer depends on who you ask.
ive personally seen 3.73's 4.10's 4.56's blow up aswell has alot more to do with the stock carrier then the gears, run a detroit arb or ox with a good diff cover and it will fine
 
Re: Gearing

ive personally seen 3.73's 4.10's 4.56's blow up aswell has alot more to do with the stock carrier then the gears, run a detroit arb or ox with a good diff cover and it will fine
bobnoxious was pretty against 4.88s in a 30 last time he posted on here about it, I forgot to mention the stock carrier bit. Good point, how many 4.10 sets has Adam gone through now? :laugh2:
 
Go with 4.88s. I have 4.56s with 33s and it some times still feels like a bit of a dog (and no, its not my engine)...maybe I am expecting too much but 4.56s with 35s would be even worse. Plus you might as well go as deep as you can since 4.88s are the max for D30s anyway.
 
If you're not locked in the front go 4.88's or if you plan on locking it be prepared to throw a ton of cash into upgrades.
 
Go with 4.88s. I have 4.56s with 33s and it some times still feels like a bit of a dog (and no, its not my engine)...maybe I am expecting too much but 4.56s with 35s would be even worse. Plus you might as well go as deep as you can since 4.88s are the max for D30s anyway.

I have 4.56 and would like to go 4.88 or 5.13 but I'm also running super fat MTZ's at 36".
 
i run 4.56's, i would probably prefer 4.88's but not sure i'd go that low with a d30 and 35's.
 
I'm running 488's on a Dana 30 with 35's at this time.I got the axle used(with 488's) from a guy who beat the crap out of his jeep by offroading it hard.It has no truss and a stock diff cover on it and i just broke the long side tube on it, which is a easy fix.Go 488's and learned how to use the skinny pedal and call it good.

PS

It is also Locked in front
 
iirc 2.71s even came in waggy 44s if a V8 was installed, so you could pick up a set of waggy 44s cheaper than having your 30+stock rear regeared and then swap them in. and then when you realize your gearing sucks you can regear and have axles actually capable of handling 35s without worrying!
 
The gearing difference between 4.56 & 4.88 is about the same as the strength difference...small. Stock carriers will increase your chances of breaking a 4.88 gear set.

Mathmatically, 4.56 is correct for 35's. I believe the 4.0 accelerates better and gets better fuel mileage when it's allowed to stay in a gear longer and use it's torque...rather than zinging along like a ricer zipping through the gears (others will disagree...but I don't think they're being honest with themselves or you, as they obviously need more HP and are trying to compensate with overgearing).

I never blew up a tranny when I was forced to run 3.55's with 35" rubber for 6 months (blown up diffs, had the 3.55 stuff, do what you gotta do), I got great mileage on the highway running in 3rd, and it still wheeled all the hard trails my club did at the time.

Personally, I don't see enough pros to .32 more driveshaft revs/wheel revs vs. cons.

Adam probably needs to break down and let me set up his diffs:rtm:
 
He's going to one tons and larger tires iirc.
 
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