Fuse Panel removal

[Stone4140]

My 1988 XJ could use a new fuse box (main one in drivers footwell). I've taken multiple attempts and each time I stop because I feel like I may break something. I've removed the long screws from the interior and under the hood I've releasing what look like large retaining clips. But when I start to remove it it doesn't seem to want to separate. Am I missing something or should I really just start pulling to separate? Some of the individual fuse areas are melted. I replaced the blower last year which stopped the fuse from blowing, but multiple are damaged and currently I can't get the rear lights to work or the gauge illumination. I'd like to start fresh.

Thanks,

 

[RCP Phx]

That's a extremely complicated task, what are going to replace the fuse block with???

 

[RCP Phx]

Here's what your looking at !!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onTJSCaxQok

 

[Stone4140]

Here's what your looking at !!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onTJSCaxQok

Just getting to the back of it may be enough. I think a few of them just may need the female connectors flared out a bit so they don't recess in so far. Thanks for the video, I was missing the under the hood bolt. I think mine may be some what rusted from memory. Worse case I would disassemble and put all new fuse crimp connectors on. I'm hoping seeing the back reveals any issues and I can remiadate without going much further. It looks like a huge job to start from scratch.

 

[lawsoncl]

There is one bigger screw/bolt in the middle of the connector holding the inside and outside halves together that's hard to see. The clips only hold the front parts together. You'll want to clean that big connector up with brake cleaner and repack with some dielectric grease.

The Renix fuse panel can be rebuilt with new terminals. Good info here:
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=246510717&postcount=7

Also if this is a manual, make sure the clutch master isn't dripping on the panel.

 

[Stone4140]

Ya I gotta get at the bolt. I think there was at one point a leak of the master. I may try to build something to shield it from any future leaks. I've been pushing this job off, but with winter coming I wanna get it fixed asap. Hopefully I don't need to disassemble the full panel. I am looking forward to cleaning the main connectors and packing with dialetric grease. That part is always somewhat enjoyable at least.

 

[lawsoncl]

If you're melting fuses, you really need to replace the terminals. Bending or tweaking them really isn't going to work and you're just as likely to break them.

Take pictures as you go. A soldering iron is needed, and probably some extra wire if any of the corrosion extends up into the wires and you need to trim back.

 

[naxjxj]

If you're melting fuses, you really need to replace the terminals. Bending or tweaking them really isn't going to work and you're just as likely to break them.

Take pictures as you go. A soldering iron is needed, and probably some extra wire if any of the corrosion extends up into the wires and you need to trim back.

Hi, found your old write-up (2017) on replacing terminals on existing FuseBlock. But your description of "terminals" replacement seems that's only for rear/back portion of Fuseblock - is that correct ?

I've got melted fuse (blower) and can't pick-out all remains from Fuse SLOT. Do you know if there are replacement Fuse SLOT metal parts ?


FYI, cause was not clutch-cylinder (it's a manual), but instead rainwater from rusted hole in roof - compounded by my repeated sending of power to fading Blower. I unknowingly repeatedly fried fuse (that's my presumption).

( '94 XJ 4.0 manual )

 

[lawsoncl]

The pins I posted go into the front facing part of the fuse block, and are what the fuses insert into. If the fuses are loose and won't stay in, these are the terminals that need replaced. This writeup has a few pictures. https://comancheclub.com/topic/45231-fuse-block-dissection/

 

[RCP Phx]

The terminals are getting hard to find, specially in the larger AWG sizes but the proper crimper is the most important!

 

[naxjxj]

Thanks Lawsoncl & RCP.

RCP: what's your recommendation on the "Proper Crimper" to use ? DelCity shows still having these terminals, but only 14-16AWG. Is that our size ?

Lawsoncl: that's a great write-up ! Thanks for the great link.

 

[RCP Phx]

There are several sizes needed. The proper crimper does both crimps at once for each size!

 

[RCP Phx]

You can check Delcity, Digikey, and Waytek, and others!

 

[RCP Phx]

Heres one rated 14-22awg ........
https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/tools/crimpers/aptiv-12014254-weather-pack-crimping-tool

 

[lawsoncl]

I just used a regular crimper and solder. A few of the wires had to be trimmed back and new wire spliced on due to corrosion. My MJ used to be a manual, and I suspect the clutch master had dripped fluid onto the box.

 

[RCP Phx]

You'll want to clean that big connector up with brake cleaner and repack with some dielectric grease.

The Renix fuse panel can be rebuilt with new terminals. Good info here:
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=246510717&postcount=7

Also if this is a manual, make sure the clutch master isn't dripping on the panel.

You do NOT want to use dielectric grease, you want a electric anti-ox formula! Also avoid heat if you do any soldering to avoid losing temper in the fuse contacts!