Full Float Axle Assemblies - Trailer Build

[xj92]

I'm going to build a lightweight trailer, ~1000 lbs capacity, just enough to haul my front D60 from Utah to AZ. Needs to be lightweight so the minivan can tow it (the family won't fit in the MJ for the trip), and super cheap (less than $275 total). Trailer axles aren't all that cheap, but I can typically get readily available junkyard axles for $43.
So I can obviously just throw a D35 axle under it and call it good, but what if I were to get a full float 14-bolt or equivalent, remove the axle shafts, cut the tubes off of the center section, and replace the center section with another length of tube. In my head this would be light weight (relatively) and carry quite a load, and be cheap. Since I've never messed with full float axles myself, only read about them, here are my questions.

1. Can you run a full float axle with the shafts removed? From what I've read, that seems to be the point, to separate the load carrying capacity from the torsional forces on the axle shaft.
2. If yes to the first question, would there be any issues as far as just removing the center section and the brakes and running it as a beam axle under a trailer?

If this isn't in the right forum, please let me know where it should go.

 

[RCman]

Interesting idea.

Few issues; you need to put a flange back where the axle used to attach the to hub otherwise you'll just get dirt in the bearings. Actually all you'd need is just the flange off the axle (cut it) and then just use that. Which brings up another issue, bearing lubrication. In a typical FF axle gear oil is allowed down the tubes and this is what keeps the bearings from heating up and grenading. Find a way to solve that and I think you'd be all set.

Honestly, I'd find a used trailer axle and use that. Packable bearings, lightweight for what you are doing, and cheaper parts.

 

[Starboard M]

I would either buy a trailer from Harbor Freight, or just use a normal axle. Any full floating axle is going to weigh way more then a small axle with most of the parts removed.


Find a non C clip D35 (free or fairly cheap) take the spider gears and ring gear out, strip the brakes off of it, and you should have a lightweight axle which wont require a ton of fab work for one trip.

 

[dagr8tim]

I'm considering doing this with an open 8.25 I have in my XJ, once I swap the LSD 8.25.

Would the procedure be basically the same?

 

[xj92]

• As far as the lube goes, I would half-fill the beam axle with lube so the bearings would be lubed the same as before.
• On a D35, If I removed the ring gear, carrier, & spider gears, wouldn't that create a problem with the axle shafts not having any support near the pumpkin? To keep them centered, or whatever? Unless I then cut the axle shafts, just leaving enough for the outer bearings. Referring of course to non c-clip.
• The motive for this trailer is hauling the D60 back from Utah, but I'll keep it around for future use as well. It would be nice to be able to haul jeep parts with the minivan when needed for junkyard trips & such.
• Either way doesn't require much fab work. Very small in comparison to building the rest of the trailer from scratch.
• Just looking for light, cheap, & strong. What wall tube is typical on full float axles? 1/4, 3/8?
• An 8.25 is not full float, so that's not an option. If you're referring to removing the ring gear & spiders, then there's no way because it's a c-clip axle and there wouldn't be anything holding the shaft in if you removed the spider gears, etc.

 

[benXJ]

either get a free D35 and build around that or just rent a trailer. i doubt a empty 14 bolt is much lighter than a complete D35.

 

[RCP Phx]

We made ours out of an old toyota truck,never even touched the rear axle.Its got a tool box on front and a camper shell on back.Were adding a constuction type rack as we speak!

 

[xj92]

I had a pickup-bed trailer that I made from a '94 1/2 ton dodge long-bed pickup, but I sold it. It was kind of heavy and a lot bigger than I needed. Also sat too high for the van, and the weight distribution was never ideal. Hence looking for a lightweight build this time. I put up an ad to see if there are any D35's local sitting around, and if there are I'll grab one. If not, a 14-bolt costs the same as a D35 at the junkyard and I might go that route just for fun. I'd have to get 8 lug wheels too though which might cost more since there are a million jeep guys around with 5x4.5 stock wheels that want to sell them cheap.

 

[Clean Racing]

I'm going to build a lightweight trailer, ~1000 lbs capacity, just enough to haul my front D60 from Utah to AZ. Needs to be lightweight so the minivan can tow it (the family won't fit in the MJ for the trip), and super cheap (less than $275 total). Trailer axles aren't all that cheap, but I can typically get readily available junkyard axles for $43.
So I can obviously just throw a D35 axle under it and call it good, but what if I were to get a full float 14-bolt or equivalent, remove the axle shafts, cut the tubes off of the center section, and replace the center section with another length of tube. In my head this would be light weight (relatively) and carry quite a load, and be cheap. Since I've never messed with full float axles myself, only read about them, here are my questions.

1. Can you run a full float axle with the shafts removed? From what I've read, that seems to be the point, to separate the load carrying capacity from the torsional forces on the axle shaft.
2. If yes to the first question, would there be any issues as far as just removing the center section and the brakes and running it as a beam axle under a trailer?

If this isn't in the right forum, please let me know where it should go.

I like your 14 bolt idea, but I would remove the center pumpkin and put a bigger tube to sleeve the outer tubes. I would make a provision for adding gear oil so that the hub bearings are lubricated.. It may just be easier to throw a d35 under a flat bed and call it done.. If you go that route just remove the ring gear from the carrier and put the carrier back in so the axles have support on the inside...

 

[dave92cherokee]

If you get a 14bolt don't chop it up for a trailer use it for your rig. For the trailer look for the rear axle out of a dodge caravan. They were FWD vans and the rear was just a hollow tube like the front in 2wd xj's. Just weld on spring perches and leafs and go.

 

[kastein]

My dad used the non-driven rear axle out of some Honda-mobile (the little 4-lugnut hub ones) for our camping trailer, it has held up to well over a thousand pounds of junk on top of it for approx 18 years now. Just make sure you place the shocks better than he did, if you bother with them... and you might need to beef up the springs a little.

(completely off-topic) Speaking of which, if anyone ever saw a green minivan or a purple dodge ram 2500 van pulling what looked like an 8 by 6 by 7 foot (approx) wooden brick on wheels with a few canoes on top, that was us going camping...

 

[billyjp2]

what about a sprung under MJ 35 to keep the trailer low to the ground, i think an XJ rear axle will cause the trailer to ride way too high to be pulled behind a mini van

 

[xj92]

The caravan rear axle is a great idea, I'll look for those first. Spring over or under doesn't matter. Cutting and rewelding spring perches is easy.

 

[xjtrailrider]

Why not use a "Hitch Hauler" instead of building a trailer and lugging it up and back. Just strap the axle to the hauler and drive home. The axle weighs what, 200# maybe? Just use some heavy wall material for the hauler.

 

[xj92]

Considered that first, and originally planned on it, but was told the axle was 500-600 lbs. I have no idea what it weighs, but that would definitely exceed the tongue weight rating of a lowly Pontiac Montana. I believe the max tongue weight for that minivan would be 350 lbs. So does somebody have an accurate weight for a Dana 60 front axle out of an '04 Super Duty? Comes complete with discs, calipers, tie rod, drag link, etc. I'll probably head to the junkyard this coming Monday to scrounge for parts.

 

[xcm]

according to billavista
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"Weight, fully dressed single wheel front Chevy 60 complete, locking hub to hub 518lbs"[/FONT]

thats obviously a chevy d60 front... but we're talkin apples and apples

 

[tbburg]

If you have the fab skills to make a trailer, strip a 14 bolt and replace the center, why not use a 2wd XJ front axle?

Remove the control arm brackets. Add spring perches. Install a 1 piece tie rod, and add a bracket to hold it straight/forward. The early 2wd axles had separate bearings(just like the front of a conventional car hub) The late models use the unit bearings, with a flush stub shaft replacing the outer axle shaft. That would give you a bolt pattern to match XJ rims.

Another option is to use the FRONT stub shaft/bearings/hubs from a heavy truck(old style with locking hubs) Get a tube and weld flanges to the ends, again, add spring perches. Use the stub shaft to mark the bolt pattern on the tube flange. I've seen a few rear axles converted to full floaters this way(that's pretty much what the old Warn conversions used to do also)

All you need to convert a front axle to non-driven is a plug on the inside where the outer axles haft used to go through.

 

[dagr8tim]

I don't mean to thread jack again, but I have an extra 8.25 that I want to build a trailer out of. I was planning on using a set of XJ leaf's also. Should I also add shocks to it also?

I'm planning a little 4x6 trailer.

 

[xj92]

4x6 is the size I'll be doing. If you're running anything other than actual trailer leafs, you will probably want shocks as well. Any junkyard shock should work. tbburg, your ideas sound plausible, but so far the D35, modified 14-bolt, & Caravan rear axle sound the best. I may have a line on a $10 D35, and if so I'll take that route solely cause it's cheaper, otherwise I'll probably grab a Caravan rear or a 14-bolt.

 

[dagr8tim]

4x6 is the size I'll be doing. If you're running anything other than actual trailer leafs, you will probably want shocks as well. Any junkyard shock should work.

In my case, I'm stripping a 98 XJ. I'll probably use the XJ leafs & shocks, along with the axles.