Fuel evap line disconnected

[Señor Juan]

Hi guys !

So I had a smog text done on my 89’ xj. I failed because a fuel evap line was leaky and upon inspection I found a loose hose attached to the emissions canister routing to the rear of the engine bay on the drivers side. The smog tech told me that my problem most likely is fixed once I place that hose back to where it belongs and I was hoping some of the fine people on could recognize this hose and tell me where it goes... Below are pics with the yellow arrows highlight the loose line. Please let me know if I need to include more info as I am not anything more than a shade tree human with pretty limited mechanical knowledge! On a side note. The previous owner swapped out the emissions, cooling, and motor from a 93’ xj. Smog test otherwise passed except for this fuel tank emissions leak.

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[Anak]

A detail which I saw in your SoCal chapter post and which you probably need to include here is that the vehicle is an '89 chassis with a '93 engine swapped in.

Judging from the coolant bottle the cooling system has been switched from closed to open.

Has the computer system also been swapped to '93?

If yes then what you are looking for is the correct evap routing for a '93.

 

[Señor Juan]

A detail which I saw in your SoCal chapter post and which you probably need to include here is that the vehicle is an '89 chassis with a '93 engine swapped in.

Judging from the coolant bottle the cooling system has been switched from closed to open.

Has the computer system also been swapped to '93?

If yes then what you are looking for is the correct evap routing for a '93.

Thanks for the reply ! I am not sure if the computer was swapped but I don’t believe so. It’s still an OBD 1 system tho. When I bought it the owner said that only the cooling system and emissions were swapped from the 93’ but actually forgot to mention the motor was swapped too. I didn’t find out until the smog tech explained the BAR sticker to me I’ll include a pic of the BAR sticker below. I’ll google or search 93’ evap route. Thanks for the help !

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[Saudade]

If that's the same hose in both pictures, on a stock Renix, it goes to the aircleaner. My 1988 has a large plastic line that connects to that hose, runs around the firewall, then along the fender well, the doubles back between the washer tank and air cleaner, then connects to the tube on the clean side.

 

[Anak]

Thanks for the reply ! I am not sure if the computer was swapped but I don’t believe so. It’s still an OBD 1 system tho. When I bought it the owner said that only the cooling system and emissions were swapped from the 93’ but actually forgot to mention the motor was swapped too. I didn’t find out until the smog tech explained the BAR sticker to me I’ll include a pic of the BAR sticker below. I’ll google or search 93’ evap route. Thanks for the help !

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I would interpret that as having had the computer swapped. I can't imagine the referee would issue that sticker unless the whole system were swapped.


Note that Renix hardly even counted as OBD1. Renix systems were very primitive. No CEL and I think no diagnostic codes. Certainly not the degree of codes that were typical of OBD1. There are not many code scanners that have the capability to interface with a Renix system. If you have the scanner connection under the dash you definitely have the H.O. computer swapped in.


ETA: If you look at the photo Suadade posted you can see the computer connections for a Renix system: The two yellow caps at the left hand, center of the photo, below the coolant reservoir (which you no longer have up at the firewall). Those two yellow caps are covering the plugs for the Renix system. I am betting you don't have those anymore.

 

[Señor Juan]

I see, well thanks for clearing that up a good bit for me. Once it took ownership of this Xj I literally had no idea what all was swapped and what was original and what was swapped. Now I have a better idea. I’m pretty relieved that don’t have the Renix equipment to cope with as I feel with my lack of experience I’d be much more confused trying to find a code and not being able to electronically diagnose some issues. That being said it sounds like I have a fair amount of work cut out for me but just like any project it’s all just one foot in front of the other! I’m glad I can pop into the forum from time to time and get some great advise !

Thanks everyone !
John


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[Rob Mayercik]

OBD-I Jeeps don't have a connector under the dash, that's just the OBD2 modesl. The Dealer scan tool used a special connector under the hood (somewhere near the ECU and airbox), but the average person can just use the "key trick"):

Key in ignition in OFF (not LOCK) position). Go ON-OFF-On-OFF-ON, leave in on, and count blinks on the Check Engine light. Codes are two-digit, with "55" being the "end of buffer, no further codes" code. Having a pencil and paper handy and minimal distractions is crucial to catching them, though these days it's probably easier just to take video of it with your phone and do the blink counting later (gives you the ability to replay). You can "play back" the codes list in the truck as many times as you need to also - doing the key trick doesn't clear anything, it just displays them.

The OBD1 system placed the ECU against the left front fender, next to the airbox and right behind the headlight. It'll have a black plastic shell, and one big connector going to it (unlike the OBD2 PCMs, which are silver in color and connect to the harness with multiple connectors).

Assuming Anak's correct that the BAR label means all the control electronics were swapped in as well and the Check Engine light is functioning, doing the key trick I described should get you a list of codes so you can see if any evap codes are in the list.

Here's at least a partial list of OBD-1 codes you can get (I make no guarantees as to completeness, but OBD1 won't have as extensive a range of codes as OBD2): https://www.fixjeeps.com/obd-codes.html

 

[Saudade]

The CA smog check includes a visual inspection. If the inspector saw the open hose, it would be cause for failure.

Hard to tell from your pics, but one of the lines (forward most) should run to the air cleaner. Another (in the back) to the fuel tank. The last one (on top) should connect to the intake manifold.

 

[GravyDavey]

If you failed because EVAP didn't hold pressure, it may be the line that runs back to the gas tank. I believe they pressurize the fuel tank and lines by way of the fuel filler hose/gas cap. If it holds pressure, you're good. If it loses pressure, fail.

I failed once due to rotted out o rings on the rollover valves on top of the tank.

The roller over valves connect to rubber lines which then connect to a metal line right around the fuel filter area. The metal line looks just like a 2nd brake line and is routed just under the rear brake line. That metal line runs all the way up to the engine compartment where it then connects to a rubber hose. When the tech tests for EVAP pressure, he pinches this section of rubber hose. I think if you failed the pressure test be cause of this missing connection, it would also be an obvious visual fail.

The EVAP system relieves vapor pressure from the tank. Vapor moves up to the charcoal canister under the hood. After that it gets sucked up into the intake and burnt with the fuel/air mix.

 

[Saudade]

Yeah, that's what I meant. From the pics it appears to be the one running to the air cleaner so that's the one they would pinch off.

I had the air cleaner pre heat hose (the one off the comes off the exh manifold) missing one year. I failed with a "Tampered" emissions system. :banghead:

 

[lawsoncl]

the cooling system has been switched from closed to open.

Looks like the heater core is bypassed too. I assume the vac line for the heater control valve is plugged off, because it's not connected to the valve. Looks like a temp probe was cobbled into a line bypassing the core as well.