Forged 4.0L Supercharged Engine Ideas

IMO...

A stroker motor requires a head with larger valves. A Forced Induction motor does not. It is a good idea, but with FI a goodly number of things change as you are no longer managing partial pressure (i.e. "vacuum").

My thoughts. There is no such thing as vacuum in an engine. There is partial pressure. You want vacuum? Go 300 miles straight up. If you are on the planet, however, you are dealing with partial pressures. Intakes and Heads are the crucial components in that management. The length and shape of the ports, the number of angles cut into the valve head, the floor of the port.

Floor? Yes. in most "ported" heads, the floor of the port is raised to reduce the turbulence which promotes the flow through the port. The Hesco (Patriot Performance) head has raised floors. Call Bernie and get the particulars. Just wish Hesco offered the big valve version...

With low pressure, any obstruction in the path will setup turbulance. The turbulence impeads flow which is why the 99+ intake is a better manifold than the log style. 90* bends are not the best idea for an intake. Swooping curves are. Air has mass and as such, inertia must be considered. Any mass wants to travel in a line. Hit a 90* bend and you get turbulence. What a log manifold has going for it is that is is a cheap and easy way to bolt on a carb/TB and they are a legacy from the dawn of Automotive time.

Plus... A vortex attempts to create in any tube that is flowing a gas. The center of the tube has a much higher velocity than near the walls. If the flow lasts long enough, time wise, the vortex forms.

In a positive pressure systems, obstructions are overcome by brute force. In partial pressure systems, elegance is required.

You know, I should get off the soap box here.

At least we do not have to take wall cling (fuel sticking to the intake manifold) into consideration with our injected motors like the carb'd engine designers do.

Marty, make some calls to your local Speed Shops to find where they get their head work done. It may turn out to be cost effective to have your head redone. All of these performance sellers (Hesco excluded) are working from cores which means that a competent performance shop can get you the results you are looking for.

Do the math here. A 4.6L 6 cylinder has the same cylinder volume as a 6.1L 8 cylinder engine. Look up the valve sizes on a GM LS3.

"The intake valve diameter has increased from 2.00 inches found in the LS2 to 2.16 inches for the LS3. Exhaust valve diameter has increased to 1.60 inches from 1.55 inches."

The beauty of the thing is that all engines are basically the same. With a given cylinder volume, the valves need to be close to the same sizes to get similar performance per cylinder. The number of cylinders really do not matter as we are talking flow dynamics of the ports. The intake manifold matters for NA vs FI but that is about it.

So a head with 2.0 intakes and 1.6 exhausts would be entirely suitable for a stroker or a FI engine. Altough the FI does not require it.

IMO.
 
Why is the OP thinking of spending/doing all this for supercharging? Are the stock rods that weak? They are comparable IMHO to the old Turbo Dodge "T1" rods that will hold 340 whp in a four cylinder. Why wouldn't that math (even conservative math) carry over here? I have seen more than one 4.0 spray 150 shot on a WOT switch and that hit is HARD. Several bottles were sprayed with no issues and yes we were using a WB and stock ECU. If the rods were to break we would have seen it by now. Hence my query on the "why upgrade". The power curve of the supercharged engine is linear vs the n2o 's dramatic/instant rise which indicates to me that the upgrade is not necessary at this time.

For reference there is the TurboTom? on jeepstrokers that put the 4.0 turbocharged in his AMC with a stock bottom end and it engine dyno'd nearly 490 hp till he killed a ring land .

I am not trying to start a war just a discussion. I have not been able to find ANYONE that has broken a rod or even a rod bolt from too much boost ,n2o or anything not related to mechanical over-revving. Even the crank harmonic is rare and I have not been able to talk to someone it actually happened too. I don't mean it happened to "my friend" but the actual human!

Dave B
 
Thanks Dave. That's why I am back to thinking of just stock short block and a decent head head bolts/studs, mls head gasket and be done with it.
 
Thanks Dave. That's why I am back to thinking of just stock short block and a decent head head bolts/studs, mls head gasket and be done with it.

Unless your looking for tranny destroying power, that is by far the best plan. I've had nothing but good things with my stock block, and I beat the hell out of it. Tuning is everything with FI. If you tune conservatively and don't try to push the envelope, you will be fine. This is of course assuming the stock block is in good shape to begin with.

K.I.S.S.
 
This is of course assuming the stock block is in good shape to begin with.

K.I.S.S.

That is the question. 165,000 miles.
Do I look for a 60k JY engine? Rebuild stock? Rebuild with forged pistons and slight cam? Full on FI build?

Or just put it on and let it rip, well not really let it rip, but 6-7lbs and see how it goes. I'll do a compression test this weekend.
 
The oil pressure on this engine is usually around the first bar at idle so... Yeah... 165,000 miles and low oil pressure. I doubt the compression test will be very good. Lol.

Can't wait to see what the compression is though. :roll:

Btw, MUST HAVE MOAR BOOST!!!!!!!!!!! :firedevil

That is the question. 165,000 miles.
Do I look for a 60k JY engine? Rebuild stock? Rebuild with forged pistons and slight cam? Full on FI build?

Or just put it on and let it rip, well not really let it rip, but 6-7lbs and see how it goes. I'll do a compression test this weekend.

Unless your looking for tranny destroying power, that is by far the best plan. I've had nothing but good things with my stock block, and I beat the hell out of it. Tuning is everything with FI. If you tune conservatively and don't try to push the envelope, you will be fine. This is of course assuming the stock block is in good shape to begin with.

K.I.S.S.
 
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which first line? Near 0, or the one above it? If the one above it it is fine

The one just after zero. I'll see if I can dig up a picture. FOUND IT!!!!!

This is what it's at when the air conditioning is turned on. It goes to the line to the left of the needle at normal idle.

72373-low-oil-pressure.jpg
 
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To the left of the needle may be a bit low, but the general rule is 10 psi for every 1000 RPM. And that needle is 10 psi. However also take into consideration that the factory gauge/sender unit isn't the best. As well as the oil pressure can be effect by the oil filter and oil you use. I would start by verifying the pressure with a mechanical gauge.
 
To the left of the needle may be a bit low, but the general rule is 10 psi for every 1000 RPM. And that needle is 10 psi. However also take into consideration that the factory gauge/sender unit isn't the best. As well as the oil pressure can be effect by the oil filter and oil you use. I would start by verifying the pressure with a mechanical gauge.

Gotcha. I think I have a mechanical gauge sitting somewhere...

It does go up to a little over 40psi [as indicated on stock cluster] at cruise and when under light acceleration. [no clue if this helps]
 
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