? for those that have built their own winch bumpers
- Thread starter dfjeepster
- Start date
- Location
- In the islands
I did add alittle to the bottom to fit the winch. I removed the lower lip, bolted the winch on and rebuilt the lip as tight to it as possible.
OK. I see it now. The winch itself measures 6.3". Then you would have to add a bit of space between to get it to between the lips top and bottom. That may turn out to be about another inch depending on the exact measurements of the channel you use. Good. I like the way it look. I think a 7" X 2" channel would be perfect.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I did basically the same thing. 6x2 1/4 wall box tubing bumper, mounts immediately in front of the bumper mounting tabs on the front of the uniframe using 1/4" plate brackets that reach to the rearmost stock recovery hook mounting hole and also incorporate the steering box bolts, 1" thick recovery points that go straight through the bumper beam and have the 1/4" plate brackets rosette welded to them.
Had to do what skinnyridge did and space the bottom face of the box tube down a bit so the winch feet would fit in. You don't want to just cut notches in the bottom face because it really weakens the structure, just a heads up.
Also, since the spacer for my durango steering box was made a little taller than it should have been (fabbed it up myself with 1/4 plate and 3/16 plate years ago... I really should redo it properly, I erred on the side of making it too tall instead of too short at the time) I did have to flap wheel the freespool lever knob a lot and the side of the steering box a little bit. With proper planning it should be fine without doing that.
Things I still need to do: mount the solenoid box properly (I moved it up under the hood to prevent it getting swamped/corroded) and add a UHMW/Delrin and steel plate skidplate for the electrical terminals on the winch motor so they don't get shredded by a rock.
I spaced those spots down for the winch feet/endplates by welding 3/8" thick pucks to each side of the gap (heavily beveled edges and welded the whole perimeter) and then welding sections of 1/4 wall box tube over them, again around the whole perimeter. Not sure it's the strongest, but I've used the winch with no issues and no sign of bending or weld cracking and it kept clearance as high as possible in as many spots as possible so I'm happy with it.
That last pic really shows how vulnerable the winch wiring is, I need to either clock the motor housing up or make an insulating plate and skid for that pretty badly.
The recovery points are 1" thick plate, 6 or 7" wide, cut into 4" lengths each used vertically. 1" holes (I use 1" pin D-shackles) and the diagonal corners are 1" per short side or so. If I did it again I'd use 1x9 or 1x10 plate so I could get another few 1.5" diameter holes through the 1/4" plate frame brackets for more rosette welds, but the 1" plate captures the two frontmost bumper mount bolts and has a couple decent rosettes through the 1/4" and a good solid perimeter weld around it too, and hasn't shown any signs of failure. I'd also angle the end wings in and up to make it look more like SkinnyRidge's bumper, it looks pretty hillrod with just a straight bumper crossbeam how I have it now but I don't feel like messing with it.
One of the benefits of using rectangular tube instead of C channel is that the tip of a high lift fits perfectly inside the end of the bumper tubing, makes a great jacking point, no chance of it sliding out. That was accidental, I was in a hurry and didn't have time to cap the ends of the tube before my first wheeling run with the bumper and after using it as a high lift jacking point I doubt I ever will. Might cap it say 4-5" back into the tube just to keep nasty shit out of the inside of the tubing, but that really depends on if I give enough of a damn to get the welding torch that far into there. Probably not.
edit: oh yeah, move your fairlead mounting position down from where I have it by several inches, you want the aperture for the rope to pass through to be centered at the average diameter of the rope when it's wound on the drum. Mine's kinda high up and it makes the winch work harder to drag the rope over the bottom edge of the fairlead while winching. Again, it works, but it isn't ideal and I'd do that differently if I was going to build another. Looking at it now, I'd need to move it down about an inch to an inch and a half, using a piece of 2" box tube like robz95xj instead of the bits of plate to get around the winch feet would kill two birds with one stone, though it'd reduce approach angle more. You win some you lose some.
Had to do what skinnyridge did and space the bottom face of the box tube down a bit so the winch feet would fit in. You don't want to just cut notches in the bottom face because it really weakens the structure, just a heads up.
Also, since the spacer for my durango steering box was made a little taller than it should have been (fabbed it up myself with 1/4 plate and 3/16 plate years ago... I really should redo it properly, I erred on the side of making it too tall instead of too short at the time) I did have to flap wheel the freespool lever knob a lot and the side of the steering box a little bit. With proper planning it should be fine without doing that.
Things I still need to do: mount the solenoid box properly (I moved it up under the hood to prevent it getting swamped/corroded) and add a UHMW/Delrin and steel plate skidplate for the electrical terminals on the winch motor so they don't get shredded by a rock.
I spaced those spots down for the winch feet/endplates by welding 3/8" thick pucks to each side of the gap (heavily beveled edges and welded the whole perimeter) and then welding sections of 1/4 wall box tube over them, again around the whole perimeter. Not sure it's the strongest, but I've used the winch with no issues and no sign of bending or weld cracking and it kept clearance as high as possible in as many spots as possible so I'm happy with it.
That last pic really shows how vulnerable the winch wiring is, I need to either clock the motor housing up or make an insulating plate and skid for that pretty badly.
The recovery points are 1" thick plate, 6 or 7" wide, cut into 4" lengths each used vertically. 1" holes (I use 1" pin D-shackles) and the diagonal corners are 1" per short side or so. If I did it again I'd use 1x9 or 1x10 plate so I could get another few 1.5" diameter holes through the 1/4" plate frame brackets for more rosette welds, but the 1" plate captures the two frontmost bumper mount bolts and has a couple decent rosettes through the 1/4" and a good solid perimeter weld around it too, and hasn't shown any signs of failure. I'd also angle the end wings in and up to make it look more like SkinnyRidge's bumper, it looks pretty hillrod with just a straight bumper crossbeam how I have it now but I don't feel like messing with it.
One of the benefits of using rectangular tube instead of C channel is that the tip of a high lift fits perfectly inside the end of the bumper tubing, makes a great jacking point, no chance of it sliding out. That was accidental, I was in a hurry and didn't have time to cap the ends of the tube before my first wheeling run with the bumper and after using it as a high lift jacking point I doubt I ever will. Might cap it say 4-5" back into the tube just to keep nasty shit out of the inside of the tubing, but that really depends on if I give enough of a damn to get the welding torch that far into there. Probably not.
edit: oh yeah, move your fairlead mounting position down from where I have it by several inches, you want the aperture for the rope to pass through to be centered at the average diameter of the rope when it's wound on the drum. Mine's kinda high up and it makes the winch work harder to drag the rope over the bottom edge of the fairlead while winching. Again, it works, but it isn't ideal and I'd do that differently if I was going to build another. Looking at it now, I'd need to move it down about an inch to an inch and a half, using a piece of 2" box tube like robz95xj instead of the bits of plate to get around the winch feet would kill two birds with one stone, though it'd reduce approach angle more. You win some you lose some.
Last edited:
dfjeepster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cranford, NJ
Started construction on it today, might start up a bumper build thread but here's a few pics
build diff mounting plates that incoperate all 7 mounting holes on each sideStarted construction on it today, might start up a bumper build thread but here's a few pics
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
This!!
And those almost look like 8.8 bolts, make sure you replace them with 10.9 hardware.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
He has a JCR brace on there, you don't think that it'd be OK with grade 8 hardware?
not on the passengerside, and its real easy just to make new plates, and if you extend em far enough you can make em into dring mounts
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
Right, I understand that'd be best. That's what I did. I figured he'd be making another plate for the passenger side to match the drivers side.
This is mine: (I've yet to mount the winch so I just have that little lightbar in there until I find time.)
Brackets and booger welds: (Laser cut brackets I had laying around.)
dfjeepster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cranford, NJ
The JCR plates are on both sides and tie in to the sway bar mounts as well as the front crossmember. They are the same plates that JCR uses to build their winch bumpers off of, the front bumper plates bolt through them. I started a winch bumper build thread where you can see it all better. The mounting will be plenty strong enough. It is currently 8.8 and grade 5 hardware, it's what came with the plates but I will be upgrading for piece of mind although I doubt it would be an issue.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
I honestly wish I had done that myself. Dealing with dropping the steering box when I want to pull the bumper is a major PITA.
dfjeepster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cranford, NJ
Exactly my thinking, that's why I was happy to get the JCR plates and set it up this way.
dfjeepster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cranford, NJ
Got some late night welding in, more work to do tomorrow when I can make noise....
- Location
- San Diego
grade 5 hardware is plenty strong if you are picking up all the holes.... the bumper will tear through the unibody before those bolts fail.
xpedition xj-eh!
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Calgary Alberta Canada
Old thread I know, but after reading through it I have a question:
For those that have build a hidden winch bumper, do you find it is a pain to re-spool your winch cable?
I'm working out my front bumper and I just bought a winch so I'm just wondering if there are any downsides to operating a winch when hidden behind the bumper.
For those that have build a hidden winch bumper, do you find it is a pain to re-spool your winch cable?
I'm working out my front bumper and I just bought a winch so I'm just wondering if there are any downsides to operating a winch when hidden behind the bumper.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
I don't think it's any more difficult. If you play in the mud a lot I'd be hesitant to put it down there but if not it's a great spot for it.
If you want you could punch a couple 1.5" holes above the fairlead so you could watch how it spools up.
If you want you could punch a couple 1.5" holes above the fairlead so you could watch how it spools up.
Mnkyboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sandy,Oregon
I took one wrap of cable off so I dont have so much cable to fit on the spool.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
I was considering doing the same thing. That last few feet of my rope is showing some wear anyway.
MikeT4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern California
I did basically the same thing. 6x2 1/4 wall box tubing bumper, mounts immediately in front of the bumper mounting tabs on the front of the uniframe using 1/4" plate brackets that reach to the rearmost stock recovery hook mounting hole and also incorporate the steering box bolts, 1" thick recovery points that go straight through the bumper beam and have the 1/4" plate brackets rosette welded to them.
Had to do what skinnyridge did and space the bottom face of the box tube down a bit so the winch feet would fit in. You don't want to just cut notches in the bottom face because it really weakens the structure, just a heads up.
Also, since the spacer for my durango steering box was made a little taller than it should have been (fabbed it up myself with 1/4 plate and 3/16 plate years ago... I really should redo it properly, I erred on the side of making it too tall instead of too short at the time) I did have to flap wheel the freespool lever knob a lot and the side of the steering box a little bit. With proper planning it should be fine without doing that.
Things I still need to do: mount the solenoid box properly (I moved it up under the hood to prevent it getting swamped/corroded) and add a UHMW/Delrin and steel plate skidplate for the electrical terminals on the winch motor so they don't get shredded by a rock.
I spaced those spots down for the winch feet/endplates by welding 3/8" thick pucks to each side of the gap (heavily beveled edges and welded the whole perimeter) and then welding sections of 1/4 wall box tube over them, again around the whole perimeter. Not sure it's the strongest, but I've used the winch with no issues and no sign of bending or weld cracking and it kept clearance as high as possible in as many spots as possible so I'm happy with it.
That last pic really shows how vulnerable the winch wiring is, I need to either clock the motor housing up or make an insulating plate and skid for that pretty badly.
The recovery points are 1" thick plate, 6 or 7" wide, cut into 4" lengths each used vertically. 1" holes (I use 1" pin D-shackles) and the diagonal corners are 1" per short side or so. If I did it again I'd use 1x9 or 1x10 plate so I could get another few 1.5" diameter holes through the 1/4" plate frame brackets for more rosette welds, but the 1" plate captures the two frontmost bumper mount bolts and has a couple decent rosettes through the 1/4" and a good solid perimeter weld around it too, and hasn't shown any signs of failure. I'd also angle the end wings in and up to make it look more like SkinnyRidge's bumper, it looks pretty hillrod with just a straight bumper crossbeam how I have it now but I don't feel like messing with it.
One of the benefits of using rectangular tube instead of C channel is that the tip of a high lift fits perfectly inside the end of the bumper tubing, makes a great jacking point, no chance of it sliding out. That was accidental, I was in a hurry and didn't have time to cap the ends of the tube before my first wheeling run with the bumper and after using it as a high lift jacking point I doubt I ever will. Might cap it say 4-5" back into the tube just to keep nasty shit out of the inside of the tubing, but that really depends on if I give enough of a damn to get the welding torch that far into there. Probably not.
edit: oh yeah, move your fairlead mounting position down from where I have it by several inches, you want the aperture for the rope to pass through to be centered at the average diameter of the rope when it's wound on the drum. Mine's kinda high up and it makes the winch work harder to drag the rope over the bottom edge of the fairlead while winching. Again, it works, but it isn't ideal and I'd do that differently if I was going to build another. Looking at it now, I'd need to move it down about an inch to an inch and a half, using a piece of 2" box tube like robz95xj instead of the bits of plate to get around the winch feet would kill two birds with one stone, though it'd reduce approach angle more. You win some you lose some.
Where did you get your fairlead?
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I honestly have no idea. I got it and 100 feet of wire ripe for the winch from the last 
president (lobsterdmb) horse trading, I wonder if he remembers where he got it from.
I'm actually building another winch bumper in the very near future, this one for my DD XJ. This time I'm using a piece of 4x7 3/8 wall box tubing cut into a C-channel (I couldn't find anything else local that was tall enough on the inside for a winch base without going to 8 inch tube, which just looks dumb IMO) for the center section between the two recovery points/brackets, then pieces of 2x6 cut and tapered for the outriggers/outer wings of the bumper beam. The metal is all bought, I just haven't gotten the bandsaw assembled so I can cut the metal :wierd:
president (lobsterdmb) horse trading, I wonder if he remembers where he got it from.I'm actually building another winch bumper in the very near future, this one for my DD XJ. This time I'm using a piece of 4x7 3/8 wall box tubing cut into a C-channel (I couldn't find anything else local that was tall enough on the inside for a winch base without going to 8 inch tube, which just looks dumb IMO) for the center section between the two recovery points/brackets, then pieces of 2x6 cut and tapered for the outriggers/outer wings of the bumper beam. The metal is all bought, I just haven't gotten the bandsaw assembled so I can cut the metal :wierd:
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