Floor Pans- Anybody Try This?

[Blaine B.]

I used to feel water rushing by the carpet before the fix, and even then that never caused any problems. Heh!

 

[bcmaxx]

I had a 4runner I swamped, I could not get the mud and clam smell out until the upholstery was gone

 

[bfred]

You can actually buy the preformed sections. There are 6 choices: full driver's side, full passenger side, front or rear driver side, or front or rear passenger side.
http://www.shermanparts.com/page.php?c=shop&p=new_products&id=14

I just got the full driver's side one, the quality isn't too bad. I'll be putting it in within the next couple weeks. I fixed the passenger side by forming and welding in my own patch panels (7 in all) using 18 gage sheetmetal, but it took me between 35-45hrs doing it that way.

The pre-formed panels are really a good idea. Keep in mind a cherokee being a unibody vehicle, the floors are a structural part of the "frame". With the amount of time it could take to fabricate patches, the prices are resonable, and you know they will be the proper gauge and are galvanized as well. I would recommend welding for the strongest repair. Some of the structural adhesives could be used also with good results, but require clamping or temporarily screwing the panels in place while the glue dries (creating a nice little line of holes through your brand new floor!). I would also be a little leery using adhesives around the converter and exhaust, since heat will release alot of these products. I would pick the glue products over screws/rivets though, if welding isn't an option for you. Screws/rivet can loosen with the flex that a unibody has designed into it,or shear off in an accident. Sem, 3M/duramix, and Lord Fuser all make very good adhesives, check with a body shop supply to make sure you get the proper one for your application (many different ones). Expect to pay about $30.00 a tube though, and most require a special gun to dispense

 

[jakec]

I have just finished patching mine. It wasn't too bad, so I only had to cut out the rusty spots. I wire wheeled all the rust after cutting, used the biggest self-tapping screws I could find, and put them about 2-3" apart. Wire wheeled again, just to make sure I had bare metal to weld to. Spot welded the perimeters and seams with a small wire-feed, abut every 1-2", and them sealed all areas that could collect water with roofing tar. Now the whole floor is getting sealed with the "plastic" type roofing tar. Yes, I know it will stink for months, but it's cheap and it bonds and seals VERY well. The stuff I'm using does form a very hard shell after a couple days, also. I will also be sealing everything from the outside, but not welding, and then undercoating. Mine is an 87, and I figure if it lasted this long with the carpet, it'll last forever without it:spin1: !