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Finally caged the mall crawler.

4xpete said:
Dean

Everyone has their own opinions. But your cage looks good to me. I've had mine for over 2 years and I trust it. There are a few addl/optional extra pieces that I've incorporated just based on my wheeling habits, including a lateral bar directly behind the driver/pass seats that tie the B-pilar area and works as a seat harness mount. The unibody will definitely and noticeably feel stiffer. I'm sure you've already noticed.
Click to expand...


I think I could have used this or OP's cage last year. Probably would have saved me some hassle's.

Would it be cheaper to use these bolt-in's or would it be an advantage to copy one with some strengthening modifications and "frame" tie-ins?

Mostly driving on country roads, dirt roads, fire trails for hunting and fishing. No real rock crawling.

I'm really just looking for protection from crushing the roof in again.

'89 Limited.

TC
 
This thread reminds me of the old helmet ad: "Got a $5 head? Wear a $5 helmet."

But really I think the OP's cage will probably do more good than harm in a rollover but there is an infinite number of variables that make it impossible to say for sure until he actually rolls it.

I think the thing I like least about any cage that isn't continuously tied into the A,B,C pillars, roof and floor is the way they "float" and rattle inside the body. As a general rule of thumb, if your cage and body are moving independently of each other as you drive down the road, then the cage isn't really doing much to stiffen the unibody. The reallity is not everyone needs me to build them a $3k - $4K bumper-to-bumper cage.
 
chris_amrein said:
As a general rule of thumb, if your cage and body are moving independently of each other as you drive down the road, then the cage isn't really doing much to stiffen the unibody.
Click to expand...


I think there's a misconception that this cage is floating inside the passenger compartment. But in fact, each of the arms is bolted to the floor of the unibody.


chris_amrein said:
The reallity is not everyone needs me to build them a $3k - $4K bumper-to-bumper cage.
Click to expand...

The big factor is the economics of this. I don't know what the OP paid for his cage setup, but I'm fairly certain, there is no way that anyone can build a similar welded cage for the price I paid for my setup. It's just all economics of what one can afford at the time.
 
4xpete said:
I think there's a misconception that this cage is floating inside the passenger compartment. But in fact, each of the arms is bolted to the floor of the unibody.

The big factor is the economics of this. I don't know what the OP paid for his cage setup, but I'm fairly certain, there is no way that anyone can build a similar welded cage for the price I paid for my setup. It's just all economics of what one can afford at the time.
Click to expand...

It is bolted to a floor with no further support and the cage itself is a bunch of pivots with the way it is bolted together. It is a pile of horse crap.

Economics? Cheaping out on safety is never good.
 
stockerwithalocker said:
I dont see much triangulation in this cage and its bolted to the floor ..... :shhh:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=935863&highlight=cage+testing

I am not trying to say you do not need triangulation in a cage, I agree it is needed. I also agree that I would rather have no cage than a poorly built (that is not directed towards your cage Dean) cage that will break and hit me in the head. That link is to provide proof instead of judgment.

How about to make things more interesting we start a debate about pipe vs tube?
Click to expand...
Now that's what I was talking about posting up some real world testing. That's the kind of useful information I would use to back any assertions I would make. Unfortunately this was a different model of vehicle and a different kind of cage.
 
Come avery.... Its better then nada.. And its no worst then the other weld in cages, out of the box. None of the cages that anyone sells (out of the box) come with much or Any for tiangulation, or attachment thru the floor to any structural points.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouWJa6FC7-E&feature=related

that TJ (prolly seen it a dozens times?) had a RH bolt in. and without it that TJ would have been really screwed in the end when it landed flat on the top.

If he wants to add in the triangulation pieces, they offer em. If he wants to go thru the floor they offer kit(s) for that also.

As for bolt in. the spread over the 3" clamp wraped fully around the attachment tube, I would have to guess? is just as good of a attachment as a 1.75"dia weld area that i would have to guess will crush a 1.75" tube?

Not to mention who knows what the wleds would be like depending on who installed it, and if the installer would weld 360deg of the top tubes, in a weld in.
 
And you do very different things with your Jeeps than Dean does with this particular Jeep.

If this cage gets put to use, something has gone terribly wrong. This isn't his orange Jeep that gets wheeled and possibly rolled or flopped, this is his silver Jeep that gets DD'd, and not much more.
 
ROBERTK said:
Come avery.... Its better then nada.. And its no worst then the other weld in cages, out of the box. None of the cages that anyone sells (out of the box) come with much or Any for tiangulation, or attachment thru the floor to any structural points.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouWJa6FC7-E&feature=related

that TJ (prolly seen it a dozens times?) had a RH bolt in. and without it that TJ would have been really screwed in the end when it landed flat on the top.

If he wants to add in the triangulation pieces, they offer em. If he wants to go thru the floor they offer kit(s) for that also.

As for bolt in. the spread over the 3" clamp wraped fully around the attachment tube, I would have to guess? is just as good of a attachment as a 1.75"dia weld area that i would have to guess will crush a 1.75" tube?

Not to mention who knows what the wleds would be like depending on who installed it, and if the installer would weld 360deg of the top tubes, in a weld in.
Click to expand...


:yelclap::yelclap::yelclap:

I am sure there are dozens of other videos showing that the RH cages work just fine. And to Roberts point, you can easily tie this into the unibody, and it will be just as strong as many others.

On a side note, how many of the folks posting here have a cage???
 
tcm glx said:
On a side note, how many of the folks posting here have a cage???
Click to expand...

Most the tards defending it.....specially Jeeper John
 
Woohoo.... Naxja drama...



4xpete said:
There are a few addl/optional extra pieces that I've incorporated just based on my wheeling habits, including a lateral bar directly behind the driver/pass seats that tie the B-pilar area and works as a seat harness mount.

photo.jpg
Click to expand...


Are the angled bars in the cargo area additional pieces? I didn't see them in Dean's pictures.
 
boostamante said:
No gracias! Pero si quiere tengo un Bistek de tubo para tus nalgas.

Eres mas puto que la chingada! No mames Guey!
Click to expand...

Mejor un taco de salchicha!
 
cracker said:
Most the tards defending it.....specially Jeeper John
Click to expand...

And now we are name calling? Really? you stated your opinion about the safety of this cage ( which was never asked for by the way), and thats fine. we all have our opinions. but because someone disagrees with your opinion you are going to insult them? i am indeed surprised the moderator let this go. opinions, debates, and disagreements are all fine, its an open forum. but to start acting childish? says alot about your character. I for one would feel like an ars and publicly apologize for my actions. but hey, thats just me.
 
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