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Few Shock Questions

jdbwrx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Avon, CO
Eventually I plan on getting some new shocks for my rig and I have a few questions:

1) Length: I get a little more droop in the axle out of my driver's side. My passenger side measures about 18"-28" (center of mount to center of mount), but I get about 2-3" more inches of drop on the driver. My question on shock length, do I cater to the short travel side or long side? Meaning, should I go for the Bilsteins with the 17"-28" travel, or go a little longer and get the 12" travel that goes from 17.91" to 29.7". The shorter ones I will never have to worry about bottoming them out, but they will act as limiting straps. The longer ones I may have to bump stop a bit more, but I will get more downward travel, but it will only be usable on the driver's side. This all relates to the front axle.

2) Bilsteins 5125 - I have been leaning towards these due to the travel options and the price. However, I am wondering if the 255/70 valving is stiff enough. My rig is heavier (bumper, winch, cage, etc). I am running BDS 4.5" springs in the front that have a 240lb rate. Would I be better off going to the 360/80 in the 7100's (reservoir short body)?
 
Shorter shock then you need, use bumpstops and limit straps to protect the fancy 5125s that the 255/70 will be fine for your jeep. Passanger side flex is only limited due to your trackbar setup. I have the same problem.
 
Ya. shocks won't fix that issue. you have a bind.somewhere.

I know shocks won't fix the difference in travel issue. That is due to the track bar being slightly shorter than drag link.

I was more wondering which side I cater to with the shock length.
 
My passenger side doesn't droop all the way due to the passenger's side UCA binding on droop. As soon as I get UCA's with a flex joint it will fix the issue. I'd fix the droop problem and get the the longer shocks.
 
What about rear shocks ? I have non fancey hydro shocks but my rear Passenger side is like 2 inches to longer then it should be and when I hit pot holes at speed I have to nail them all on the Driver side so I dont bottom out the shock.They are like new should I just buy 1 shorter shock when I get shocks ?
 
Neither. i would fix the issue so both work correctly and evenly :dunno:

I see what you are saying, but here is where I am at:

I don't believe there is bind other than the track bar issue. I have TNT upper CA's with RE flex joints on the frame side. The lowers are Rock Krawler arms with krawler joints on the axle side. When I flexed it and measured it, I didn't have a front drive shaft in, springs in or shocks connected, so none of those would cause a bind.

I just rebuilt the axle side track bar mount and moved it over as far to the passenger side as possible. With the WJ knuckle set up, it just works out that the drag link is longer. Unless I do something like the Team Petty Cash build and mount the track bar to the inner C, there is no physical way to make it longer.

The uneveness in the droop is not what I am asking about. I know that is a pretty common situation and I am not concerned about it. It is what it is.

I just wanted to know given this situation, what the best course would be for shock length.
 
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