Mike Costin
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NJ
Hello everyone,
I have found the various
threads on people's experience with emissions failure and repairs a good source of information.
(in fact I've had such great experiences with
that I am finally going to join after I finish this post)
So I thought I'd post my experience with mine. My hydrocarbon #s seem to be much higher than other failures I read about:
IDLE - FAIL
HC ppm 1123 (limit: 220)
CO% 1.62 (limit: 1.20)
CO2% 10.0
O2% 5.6
HIGH IDLE - FAIL
HC ppm 811 (limit: 220)
cO% 1.07 (limit: 1.20)
CO2% 11.7
O2% 3.3
I have a rusty 1995 daily driver -- AX-15/NP231/2.5" OME/31" KM2. No metal floors but great interior from the junkyard (tan w/ "wood" dash). Windows broken open and no doors in the summer. The theme of this Jeep is not spending money and looking great doing it.
The exhaust has rusted out quiet badly. Exhaust manifold is badly cracked but hasn't gotten worse since I swapped out a sheared driver side engine mount a couple years ago. The downpipe is badly ventilated and was recently welded to the cat when that interface failed. The cat seems to flow but is probably burned out inside. The muffler and cat-back I was recently forced to replace with an identical Flowmaster 40 and a generic Walker pipe. I last passed emissions in 2010 with a cracked header so I'm not too worried about that. I am going to try and "booger" weld it like I did with the downpipe. I do want to eventually replace the downpipe and cat. But for now I want to see how far I can get the #'s down with just a tune up.
The engine pops frequently on decel and misses occasionally in steady state. Not enough that I think it's a burned valve. But I will look for that.
My plan for the weekend:
- I do think the o2 sensor is shot 10x over living in these rich conditions. So that's getting replaced with a Bosch 15704 sensor I already have
- Replace the plugs and factory gap
[those 2 should do it but while I'm at it..]
- Compression test
- Verify air charge temp sensor with ohmmeter
- Inspect the wires, rotor and cap. Might swap them with my other jeep only as a test
- Check for lack of RPM drop while turning each cylinder spark off
- Check EGR and PCV operation
- Finally, drain the oil/gas mix and replace with straight oil before I lose a bearing
I will post my new numbers once I re-test.
Suggestions, criticism, etc. are appreciated!
Thank you
I have found the various

(in fact I've had such great experiences with

So I thought I'd post my experience with mine. My hydrocarbon #s seem to be much higher than other failures I read about:
IDLE - FAIL
HC ppm 1123 (limit: 220)
CO% 1.62 (limit: 1.20)
CO2% 10.0
O2% 5.6
HIGH IDLE - FAIL
HC ppm 811 (limit: 220)
cO% 1.07 (limit: 1.20)
CO2% 11.7
O2% 3.3
I have a rusty 1995 daily driver -- AX-15/NP231/2.5" OME/31" KM2. No metal floors but great interior from the junkyard (tan w/ "wood" dash). Windows broken open and no doors in the summer. The theme of this Jeep is not spending money and looking great doing it.
The exhaust has rusted out quiet badly. Exhaust manifold is badly cracked but hasn't gotten worse since I swapped out a sheared driver side engine mount a couple years ago. The downpipe is badly ventilated and was recently welded to the cat when that interface failed. The cat seems to flow but is probably burned out inside. The muffler and cat-back I was recently forced to replace with an identical Flowmaster 40 and a generic Walker pipe. I last passed emissions in 2010 with a cracked header so I'm not too worried about that. I am going to try and "booger" weld it like I did with the downpipe. I do want to eventually replace the downpipe and cat. But for now I want to see how far I can get the #'s down with just a tune up.
The engine pops frequently on decel and misses occasionally in steady state. Not enough that I think it's a burned valve. But I will look for that.
My plan for the weekend:
- I do think the o2 sensor is shot 10x over living in these rich conditions. So that's getting replaced with a Bosch 15704 sensor I already have
- Replace the plugs and factory gap
[those 2 should do it but while I'm at it..]
- Compression test
- Verify air charge temp sensor with ohmmeter
- Inspect the wires, rotor and cap. Might swap them with my other jeep only as a test
- Check for lack of RPM drop while turning each cylinder spark off
- Check EGR and PCV operation
- Finally, drain the oil/gas mix and replace with straight oil before I lose a bearing
I will post my new numbers once I re-test.
Suggestions, criticism, etc. are appreciated!
Thank you