Extended Idle 97-01 Install

[2offroad]

Do you cut the wire or splice into it and and a ground?

 

[casm]

Do you cut the wire or splice into it and and a ground?

DO NOT PERMANENTLY GROUND THE WIRE!

This is important. Unless you want your XJ idling at approximately 1100-1200 RPM all the time and all the issues that this may bring with it, permanently grounding the Extended Idle pin is a BAD idea.

So, to answer your question: cut not splice, and add a switch that will allow it to go from +12V to ground when you want the idle to be bumped up.

 

[2offroad]

I forgot to add switch, Why not splice into harness? the wire doesn't go anywhere on stock harness, correct?

 

[scoobyxj]

well my problem continues (have only messed with it a couple times) where the PCM 12 on the 32 PIN (96 XJ pcm) won't raise the idle when grounded. i tried messing with it again when i saw this thread active again and tried to figure out what was up by using a light - Pin 12 to the positive and ground to the negative wire of the light. I could of swore that the light wasn't lighting up at all but i realized when i held my hand over it - it had the slightest dim glow. this is a light from behind the dash! its really small... the 12+V that comes from the PCM must not have a good connection or something - which is why my idle is staying the same i guess?

anybody know what might be up/ how to fix this? i tried tightening up all the connections, etc to get a better signal, i have no clue why it wont just bump the idle.

Never ever ever ever use a test light when tracing vehicle electronics! You can, and will fry sensitive cpu's! You always should use a multimeter. The reason the light was dim is because the circuit you where testing can probably only handle a few Milli-amps, and that light bulb (even though is is a small low wattage indicator lamp) requires more current (amperage) than the circuit can deliver.

Example

A 2w bulb at 12V will draw .166 A (2/12=.166)
Now .166A is = to 166mA (. goes three places to the right)
Most possessor chips can only handle a few micro-amps in which case that .166A load would become 166,000 micro-amps, and using a transistor might let it handle a few Milli-amps. Just guessing, I would bet you fried the circuit, by using a test bulb instead of a meter.

 

[casm]

I forgot to add switch, Why not splice into harness?

Oh, OK. I understand what you're looking at doing now. Splicing into the stock harness would be fine; AFAIK that's how everyone's done it so far.

the wire doesn't go anywhere on stock harness, correct?

From what I can make out in the FSM, it supposedly comes out somewhere in the area of the kick panel under the steering column, but I've so far been unable to trace it. Remember that that's not a 'dead' wire in normal use: it should have +12V going through it to tell the PCM not to engage the extended idle, so it has to terminate at an ignition-switched source somewhere.

 

[Blaine B.]

Are some OBD-1 XJ's not equipped with this wire or pin? I took a quick peek and I swore the corresponding terminal for a 95 in OBD-1 (according to the chart) was not present on my PCM plug.

 

[2offroad]

I did it today and it worked fine, spliced into the grey wire and ran a wire into the console to a switch and then to ground, flip switch on and the idle goes up to about 1100-1200 rpm, drops back to normal in gear.

 

[casm]

I did it today and it worked fine, spliced into the grey wire and ran a wire into the console to a switch and then to ground, flip switch on and the idle goes up to about 1100-1200 rpm, drops back to normal in gear.

I'm slightly confused here - are you supplying +12V to pin 12 when the switch is off? Not quite following how your switch works.

 

[2offroad]

I spliced into the wire and the switch goes to ground, +12v is there from the harness.

 

[casm]

I spliced into the wire and the switch goes to ground, +12v is there from the harness.

OK, makes sense.

 

[Blaine B.]

If you have a lighted switch with "normal" instructions it's kind of backwards......you have to switch around negative/positive on the switch in order for it to light when your high-idle is on, and not backwards.....I have a diagram somewhere.

 

[casm]

If you have a lighted switch with "normal" instructions it's kind of backwards......you have to switch around negative/positive on the switch in order for it to light when your high-idle is on, and not backwards.....I have a diagram somewhere.

Stop, stop, stop. Everyone take a step back from this for a minute; the original information is starting to get lost in a sea of supposition. As stated on page 4 of this thread:

If you are using a fog lamp pigtail then the wiring goes like this. Colors are:

Black: Fuse panel lights dimmer switch signal
Purple:Fused ignition switch output
Light blue: Pin 12 on the PCM connector
Orange: Ground

This is just on the pigtail because a fog lamp pigtail colors are changed around and black and orange are reversed. Other wise it still is

Black: Ground
Grey: Pin 12 on the PCM connector
Dark Blue / White: Fused iginition switch output
Orange: Fuse panel lights dimmer switch signal

For the Dark Blue / White: Fused iginition switch output. I connected it to the AC controller right above the pannel. it is the same color and number in the wiring diagram. Just splice into it and it works great in getting the switch to light up.
Hope this helps. If not just send me a message.

Obviously, this only applies in two related cases: '97 and up XJs, and using a foglamp pigtail to wire in the OEM Extended Idle switch. However, it should essentially be used as a roadmap for using a different switch. Repeating this here for the sake of accuracy; there's too much inaccuracy creeping into this thread right now.

 

[2offroad]

Yes, my posts are about using non OEM parts on a '98 to do the upgrade.

 

[BlueCuda]

I spliced into the wire and the switch goes to ground, +12v is there from the harness.

did you spline into the wire near the ECM or did you find the wire inside the cabin area. Thanks

 

[CommandoXJ96]

Never ever ever ever use a test light when tracing vehicle electronics! You can, and will fry sensitive cpu's!
....
Just guessing, I would bet you fried the circuit, by using a test bulb instead of a meter.

Dangit. Well I won't be doing that again. But my next thought is... if i fried the circuit- the light should have gone competely out when I tried it last - correct? Everything else is fine.... I suppose I could try a multimeter and if it still reads anything - that should be an indicator as to if it was fried or not - right?

 

[BlueCuda]

Thanks for all the info guys. I just got mine wired up and working. I held off until I found a thread where they got the light working..glad I did. Next up is the overhead console install, power windows will be the final option I want to add but not looking real good lol to much work.

 

[JEEPZZ]

Thanks for all the info guys. I just got mine wired up and working. I held off until I found a thread where they got the light working..glad I did. Next up is the overhead console install, power windows will be the final option I want to add but not looking real good lol to much work.

Sounds like you're going down the same road I did with my wifes 97 Sport. I added OEM power windows, locks (including hatch lock), keyless entry with the overhead console, Infiniti tweeters. Next is factory fogs.
The ext idle is in my Jeep, along with power heated leather seats & complete interior from a 99 Limited. That includeds the headliner with the molded in speakers to replace my speaker bar that came in the 97's. upgrade, upgrade, upgrade.

I did the power conversion mods over a weekend. Let me know when your ready and I'll see if I can help walk you through it. Just post a thread and send me a PM with the thread link so I don't miss it; that way we can help out others looking to do the same mod.

 

[BlueCuda]

Sounds like you're going down the same road I did with my wifes 97 Sport. I added OEM power windows, locks (including hatch lock), keyless entry with the overhead console, Infiniti tweeters. Next is factory fogs.
The ext idle is in my Jeep, along with power heated leather seats & complete interior from a 99 Limited. That includeds the headliner with the molded in speakers to replace my speaker bar that came in the 97's. upgrade, upgrade, upgrade.

I did the power conversion mods over a weekend. Let me know when your ready and I'll see if I can help walk you through it. Just post a thread and send me a PM with the thread link so I don't miss it; that way we can help out others looking to do the same mod.

I thought I had a donor for all the power mods. Its a white Classic thats loaded other than leather. I was thinking how nice it was that it had 3 good white doors with power windows and locks. It doesn't look all the bad but somehow its tweeked enough only one of the doors will open, the others are friction shut with no signs of opening. I was able to get the console and wiring from it though. I am not sure I will want to mess with changing 4 window regulators.

 

[ponyracer1]

Where do you get one of the factory extended idle switches?? Part number??

Can you get just the switch? I'd like to replace my fog light switch with that one since there no longer with us.


Thanks

 

[casm]

Where do you get one of the factory extended idle switches?? Part number??

Extended Idle Switch - 56008728.

4-Switch Bezel - 4897505AE.

Note that these numbers are for '97 and up only.

I got both of mine from allchryslerparts.com. Ran about $60 or so for both, IIRC. Since you're in the UK, though, you should be able to find a 4-switch bezel in the scrapyard - my memory is that they were standard on XJs with front foglights in the EU.

Can you get just the switch? I'd like to replace my fog light switch with that one since there no longer with us.

Yes, you can get just the switch by itself. Of course, if you ever intend to wire front fogs back in again it might be handy to keep the existing one.