Exhaust Manifold Gasket Direction?

[LKN_xj]

I've read a few threads showing the words "manifold side" on the replacement exhaust manifold gasket, showing a correct installation direction.

I'm my case the manifold gasket is a simple stamped piece of gasket material. Like a stamped washer, one side is the "sharp" side, and the other is more rounded.

There is no directional marking. Is there a correct side to place against the head vs the manifold in this case?

If I had to guess, the flat side would go against head, and the more round side would go on the manifold.

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[dan1977p]

I think it would only matter if there was something like a copper ring around the edge. All my motorcycle gaskets have that and it's usually the ring away from the motor, IIRC.

 

[LKN_xj]

I think it would only matter if there was something like a copper ring around the edge. All my motorcycle gaskets have that and it's usually the ring away from the motor, IIRC.

Thanks. There is no ring here. I recall seeing those crush rings on motorcycle base gaskets but not on this one.


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[LKN_xj]

Is it safe to say this is a cheap gasket that came with this, or are most like this?

It looks a lot like these:

http://fcrcmachine.com/i-13089779-r...ine-6-cherokee-comanchee-wrangler-10-001.html

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[Alaskan89XJ]

On what you have; I'd use the flat side onto the head, and the bulging side outwards to receive the header bolt-down torque installation. As most FSM's suggest; one must provide an In-Service-Check, i.e., a re-torquing of the header nuts, some hours, or miles down the road as per; to FSM's values.

The link you provided seems to be of very excellent gaskets. I've always mostly stuck with Fel-Pro gaskets, and their kits are very useful. However, should I ever need a kit again, I'd go for the extra 40 bucks to obtain, (what would be then an extra piece), a FCRC Machine Company's REMFLEX exhaust manifold gasket for our specific 4.0 engines.., dis-ing the Fel-Pro one, i.e., hanging it on the wall. I have never enjoyed re-torquing hard to reach nuts/bolts as time, place, weather, as well as other life events often get in the way in order to meet that specific FSM requirement. The idea of a non-re-torquing gasket in that position is at the very least worth trying, imho.

 

[rockosocko]

DON'T USE THOSE CRAPPY ONES!!
Use this style: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2649494&cc=1373666&jsn=10670

Theyre only about 5-6$ and METAL not that crappy fiber that will blow out as soon as you fire it up if there are any irregularities in surface matings.
Quick example:
Put another engine in my son's 01 Cherokee and got the 'ClearWater' Head so surfaces would be nice and machined flat. Well I figured that I'd put one of the JEGS 'speedmaster' headers on it before I dropped the motor in. (makes sense right?) Well, I used the outer two bolts (finger tight) at either end to 'hold' the header in place and start to put both manifolds on.
Well that fiber style 'kinked' ever-so-slightly at #4 and blew out as soon as I fired it up and by the time I broke in the cam/rings (about 20min) was shooting HOT exhaust gass out right at the wiring for the injectors/rail.

Yeah I know it's kind of a long explanation and I really don't know what vehicle/platform that you have but MAN.. I was about to torch this thing because it was such a PAIN to get at the bolts of an '01 with those two dang catalytic converters, and the HUGE motor mount bracket RIGHT IN THE WAY.
You only want to do that once and be done.
This particular gasket has seams or gaps in between the port parings that stop the 'kinking' and seal up the intake with a light coating.

Just don't want ANYONE to go through that like what I did. It would have been easier to pull the motor and fix it than go through ALL THAT AGAIN!

Just my .02.
E

 

[LKN_xj]

DON'T USE THOSE CRAPPY ONES!!
Use this style: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2649494&cc=1373666&jsn=10670

Theyre only about 5-6$ and METAL not that crappy fiber that will blow out as soon as you fire it up if there are any irregularities in surface matings.
Quick example:
Put another engine in my son's 01 Cherokee and got the 'ClearWater' Head so surfaces would be nice and machined flat. Well I figured that I'd put one of the JEGS 'speedmaster' headers on it before I dropped the motor in. (makes sense right?) Well, I used the outer two bolts (finger tight) at either end to 'hold' the header in place and start to put both manifolds on.
Well that fiber style 'kinked' ever-so-slightly at #4 and blew out as soon as I fired it up and by the time I broke in the cam/rings (about 20min) was shooting HOT exhaust gass out right at the wiring for the injectors/rail.

Yeah I know it's kind of a long explanation and I really don't know what vehicle/platform that you have but MAN.. I was about to torch this thing because it was such a PAIN to get at the bolts of an '01 with those two dang catalytic converters, and the HUGE motor mount bracket RIGHT IN THE WAY.
You only want to do that once and be done.
This particular gasket has seams or gaps in between the port parings that stop the 'kinking' and seal up the intake with a light coating.

Just don't want ANYONE to go through that like what I did. It would have been easier to pull the motor and fix it than go through ALL THAT AGAIN!

Just my .02.
E

Well crap. It's in there now - got it in last night.

I copper coated it and honestly things went pretty smoothly, albeit a few grunts and getting dirty.

If it doesn't work, I'll know next time. I'm just crossing my fingers it holds well. I do agree with you that the job is not a glorious one.

I'll report back at the least and tell you how it goes at startup at a minimum.



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[Alaskan89XJ]

RESEARCH; Dana acquired the German company; Victor Reinze of Frankfort, Germany, (largest gasket maker in the world), and are not only on RockAuto, but it appears at AutoZone too. (Probably lot's of other places too). They have been supplying Mercedes Benz for 20 years.

After many engine repairs I cannot recall a FELPRO failure.., if I did my part, lol.

The Victor Reinz gasket mentioned here at is offered at RockAuto as a close-out unit at around 8 bucks, but those in their regular R.A. inventory are around 17 bucks, (your choice therein). Dunno what that means regards differences in quality control; i.e.; better, or worse in the pipeline. Time, and trial will reveal.

FELPRO seems to be like a lot of companies outsourcing their name brand products to be made outside the USA, and Q-C could suffer I think. Knowing that D.V.R. is made in Germany is a plus, compared to others using slave labor, or near slave laborers making parts for my XJ. Members here have really bad experiences with such stuff made in the global market place, and one is best advised to pay attention to the pro's.., as I certainly do. Bosch, for example makes both good stuff, and bad stuff for our XJ's. Junk Yards are often advisable sources for OEM replacements for our aging XJ's. When it comes to gaskets...

According to LKN_jx's link..; those REMFLEX gaskets can handle upwards to 3000 f., and do not use 'crappy' stuff as rockosocko warns. WHEREAS; FELPRO seems to do so, i.e., rubber mixed in.., causing shrinking, and therefor the re-torque requirement.

Another jeep forum sez that NASCAR, and other racing folk have been known to use the Dana Victor Reinz gaskets for various applications. (Me; I am just keeping my OEM XJ, [as such], so I can just stay in this section of , lol).

I think that an owner effected basic engine repair can adequately utilize their restored/re-used STOCK, or replacement OEM parts to be well served well with FELPRO, BUT; using non-OEM parts, (chinese so-called OEM crap, or some excellent after market modified performance parts), might be better served using gaskets that are uber-super-duper ones in order to oblige parts that have subtle differences in fittment.

BTW: There is a great sales pitch on how REMFLEX does not use 'crappy-fibre'. For fittment; there is a parable; "measure twice, cut once". I've often made gaskets off of a roll of material.., and made very sure it to be an exacting replacement. Of course for critical areas the only realistic replacement is those of top quality engineered ones as required in critical areas.

Bottom line for me is I am more, and more skeptical of anything manufactured globally. If I want a blade, I want to know the steel, (etc), used, and who made it. Boker, a fine German blade company, now makes 'em in godless commie china, and no way would I spend a buck down that hole. I have to research so as my American dollar gets me the best value, and given towards an American worker. Such research is easy using the internet.