Everything you ever wanted to know about the AW4
- Thread starter kastein
- Start date
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
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- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
IIRC that first one is the NSS connector... it looks right, I'll have to check my data later. It appears to be the proper one for a 1996 in any case but I'll have to double check.
I think the second one is for the OSS and solenoid pack inside the transmission, but not entirely sure. It's at a funky angle - if you can unplug it and take a pic looking into the pin section of either side of the connector I can definitely identify it positively, else I can see if it matches mostly when I double check the NSS one.
The second one appears to be a spliced-in 1998-2001 XJ AW4 harness connector, so I suspect the PO spliced the connector into the main harness instead of splicing a 96 connector onto the later AW4 harness. Oh well. It shouldn't be hard to undo that, even if you end up having to.
I think the second one is for the OSS and solenoid pack inside the transmission, but not entirely sure. It's at a funky angle - if you can unplug it and take a pic looking into the pin section of either side of the connector I can definitely identify it positively, else I can see if it matches mostly when I double check the NSS one.
The second one appears to be a spliced-in 1998-2001 XJ AW4 harness connector, so I suspect the PO spliced the connector into the main harness instead of splicing a 96 connector onto the later AW4 harness. Oh well. It shouldn't be hard to undo that, even if you end up having to.
The only two things at the other end of the second connector are a three wire oval plug- OSS?- and a four wire round plug possibly an o2 sensor thats missing the tail that plugs into the o2 sensor itself. I'll get you some much better pics when the tranny is dropped. I have done some reconnecting on the harness, hence the butt connectors you see here. Only connected wires of the same color code. Some were cut so close to the plug that I had to pull the pin out and reconnect to the pin itself. Not to worry, pulled the pins one at a time to keep the correct going to the proper pin. The second plug could realy use some shrink tubing where the wires were skinned but not cut but spray tape had to do as that was all i could get my hands on at the time. More picks to come when I get the beaste free from the heep. BTW any thoughts on the pwr windows or the pop/click in the rear. I've heard the same sort of sounds come forth from possie rears in hot rods when binding in tight turns.
child9
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Austin, TX
If I recall correctly the white wire with the orange stripe is the speed signal wire to the ecu, so whichever plug has that wire should be the one going to the OSS.
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White w/ orange is the only color wire that both the early and late model share at the OSS plug, bottom photo. This is the only one that can be completely unplugged and taken out of the vehicle. The others, including the black one not shown, are hard wired into the tranny at some point. One hard wire is on the left behind transfer case shift linkage mounting plate, consisting of only a few wires. The other hard wire is just aft of the bell housing, starboard side, consisting of many wires. Photos to come.
Bpranes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- California
I have an 88 4.0 Automatic Jeep Cherokee Pioneer. I'm about to put a stage 2 stroker kit and a 5.5" long arm lift on it. Right now, my tranny has some shifting issues. I want to know if I'm better off upgrading the tranny or having it rebuilt, and what's the price difference. What's a good tranny to upgrade too (not too worried about the budget)
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
What kind of HP/TQ numbers are you expecting?
I know the AW4 is pretty bulletproof, not sure it can handle what you are planning though, I only really know the electronics end of things. I would strongly recommend talking to child9 about that, I believe he's probably subscribed to this thread so hopefully he can bring you up to speed on whether a rebuild, upgrade, or rebuild+tune/upgrade would be best.
I know the AW4 is pretty bulletproof, not sure it can handle what you are planning though, I only really know the electronics end of things. I would strongly recommend talking to child9 about that, I believe he's probably subscribed to this thread so hopefully he can bring you up to speed on whether a rebuild, upgrade, or rebuild+tune/upgrade would be best.
child9
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Austin, TX
To the best of my knowledge an AW4 with raised line pressures will consistently handle over 600 rwtq. HP/TQ goals are paramount in this part of the decision making process.
The Jeep AW4 and the Toyoate A340e are so nearly identical that many of the internal part numbers are the same and I was able to swap out the rear planetary, clutch packs, and tail adapter in order to make a 2WD A340e essentially into a 4WD AW4, but specifically for turbo applications. My "hybrid" trans allowed me to plug my 2JZGTE and transmission directly into the NP231 transfer case so I could retain 4WD and completely stock Jeep drivetrain and suspension components. That should give you some idea of the physical resemblances of the two different models...though the turbo A340 does have an additional solenoid and clutch pack.
For whatever this is worth, this is an example of the a340e in a ~3100 lb Supra running in to the 8's.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=6xj57zcwLt4
A similarly modded AW4 should be able to take almost as much, so I'm confident saying you should be good with a built AW4 and extra cooler that's transmitting 600 wtq or less.
The most important thing is to do everything you can to keep proper transmission oil temps.
The Jeep AW4 and the Toyoate A340e are so nearly identical that many of the internal part numbers are the same and I was able to swap out the rear planetary, clutch packs, and tail adapter in order to make a 2WD A340e essentially into a 4WD AW4, but specifically for turbo applications. My "hybrid" trans allowed me to plug my 2JZGTE and transmission directly into the NP231 transfer case so I could retain 4WD and completely stock Jeep drivetrain and suspension components. That should give you some idea of the physical resemblances of the two different models...though the turbo A340 does have an additional solenoid and clutch pack.
For whatever this is worth, this is an example of the a340e in a ~3100 lb Supra running in to the 8's.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=6xj57zcwLt4
A similarly modded AW4 should be able to take almost as much, so I'm confident saying you should be good with a built AW4 and extra cooler that's transmitting 600 wtq or less.
The most important thing is to do everything you can to keep proper transmission oil temps.
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- Location
- Roanoke VA
Question for the AW4 experts;
The AW4 in my 96 trail rig with 200k on it is running hot in stop and go/trail riding, even in 2-low/4-low. It will get to 260-280 and will not cool down unless I shut it off and let physically cool down. I have a Derale 26" dual pass cooler and a Hayden 401 w/7"fan, even with the fan on and both coolers getting air, it still runs hot.
My cooler set-up, you cant see the small cooler with fan but it is behind the cross member, the Derale is in front of the cross member. As you can see, it still runs hot!
I have been told that the torque converter is the culprit.
I have a low mileage AW4/torque converter, out of my other 96 that was totaled. It has 90k on it with all new solenoids.
My question is; should I buy a new torque converter or use the one with low mileage?
The tranny has been sitting in dry storage for 2 years. I have installed new front and rear seals, filter and will be giving the case a good cleaning today.
Also, in looking at the case, I think I might have had a leak at the extension housing. Is there a gasket for that or just use some sealant?
The AW4 in my 96 trail rig with 200k on it is running hot in stop and go/trail riding, even in 2-low/4-low. It will get to 260-280 and will not cool down unless I shut it off and let physically cool down. I have a Derale 26" dual pass cooler and a Hayden 401 w/7"fan, even with the fan on and both coolers getting air, it still runs hot.
My cooler set-up, you cant see the small cooler with fan but it is behind the cross member, the Derale is in front of the cross member. As you can see, it still runs hot!
I have been told that the torque converter is the culprit.
I have a low mileage AW4/torque converter, out of my other 96 that was totaled. It has 90k on it with all new solenoids.
My question is; should I buy a new torque converter or use the one with low mileage?
The tranny has been sitting in dry storage for 2 years. I have installed new front and rear seals, filter and will be giving the case a good cleaning today.
Also, in looking at the case, I think I might have had a leak at the extension housing. Is there a gasket for that or just use some sealant?
- Location
- Roanoke VA
One more question; Can someone verify that I have the correct seals from Oriellys, they are National Seals. Front-223830/Rear-225005
The front was a dead perfect match but the rear has less "cone" on the lip but I confirmed that it fits tight to the input shaft on my spare 23 spline NP231.
Pictured is the seals, rear on the left(new seal is on top of the box and not installed yet, the old seal is leaning on the box) The front has been installed and this is the old seal laying on the box.
Pictured behind the box are my seal installers, just pieces of PVC picked up at the hardware. Works great and is cheap!
The front was a dead perfect match but the rear has less "cone" on the lip but I confirmed that it fits tight to the input shaft on my spare 23 spline NP231.
Pictured is the seals, rear on the left(new seal is on top of the box and not installed yet, the old seal is leaning on the box) The front has been installed and this is the old seal laying on the box.
Pictured behind the box are my seal installers, just pieces of PVC picked up at the hardware. Works great and is cheap!
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I'm not sure on the seals.
I would just slap the good used TQ and transmission that you have there into it at the same time. Rather do that than drop the trans, put the new torque converter in, put the trans back in, discover it still overheats and now the newish torque converter is possibly contaminated with debris as well.
The extension housing is just RTVed in place, the bolts mounting it sometimes like to break off so I'm not sure I'd pull it apart to deal with a leak that minor. Being in the rust free south, you may have better luck with that than I did.
I would just slap the good used TQ and transmission that you have there into it at the same time. Rather do that than drop the trans, put the new torque converter in, put the trans back in, discover it still overheats and now the newish torque converter is possibly contaminated with debris as well.
The extension housing is just RTVed in place, the bolts mounting it sometimes like to break off so I'm not sure I'd pull it apart to deal with a leak that minor. Being in the rust free south, you may have better luck with that than I did.
- Location
- Roanoke VA
The extension housing has been removed sometime in the past so it should come off. I also have a leak at the TV kickdown cable. How do I seal this up?
child9
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Austin, TX
The TV cable connection should have an o-ring that goes around the plastic shaft. Harbor freight has o-ring kits in a red plastic box that should have almost any size you may need. Worst case scenario, and someone correct if I am mistaken, I see no reason why rtv would not be able to be used in this situation appropriately as well.
As far as the over-heating...the main places heat is generated to my knowledge is going to be the clutch packs, reaction devices, and mainly the torque converter...especially if it never locks up. If there is any way to flow test the fluid through the cooling circuit then I would suggest that. You need to verify that you even have adequate flow through the cooling circuit. It seems odd that with all that hardware you still run so freaking hot. Something is wrong. It could be an internal seal has failed and is just letting fluid circulate right back into the trans pan allowing the hot fluid to completely bypass the cooling lines. A flow test and pressure test at one of the cooling devices should provide data to support or refute that condition.
As far as the over-heating...the main places heat is generated to my knowledge is going to be the clutch packs, reaction devices, and mainly the torque converter...especially if it never locks up. If there is any way to flow test the fluid through the cooling circuit then I would suggest that. You need to verify that you even have adequate flow through the cooling circuit. It seems odd that with all that hardware you still run so freaking hot. Something is wrong. It could be an internal seal has failed and is just letting fluid circulate right back into the trans pan allowing the hot fluid to completely bypass the cooling lines. A flow test and pressure test at one of the cooling devices should provide data to support or refute that condition.
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- Location
- Roanoke VA
The extension housing came off easy! I chased the threads in the holes and the bolts. I did end up using "Right Stuff" sealant on the TV cable so I would not have to remove it to replace the O-ring.
cencal96xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Nipomo, CA
super random i know, but i'm getting ready to swap the tail housing, sensor drive rotor and sensor on my jeep since the transmission in my jeep (96) now is from a 98 so the rotors are different, therefor not reading correctly...how do you get that damn rotor off? i've pried on it but it wont budge.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
It should have a circlip on the shaft locking it in place - they move pretty easy once that's off.
- Location
- Roanoke VA
Yep, if you look at the above picture there is a clip that retains the rotor. Its just like the clips used inside the T-case and the same pliers will work to remove the clip. I use the Craftsman C-clip pliers.
Like said above, the rotor just slips right off.
Like said above, the rotor just slips right off.