- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Exactly. Propane is the best choice.
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Erratic idling
- Thread starter bigalpha
- Start date
Exactly. Propane is the best choice.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
What's the liklihood I can burn it up and successfully commit insurance fraud? This is so frustrating.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Less than zero after making that post!:laugh3:
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Just focus on how much smarter you will be about jeeps when you figure it out! Then when it breaks down 100 miles from nowhere in the desert you can say "No worries mate!"
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Just focus on how much smarter you will be about jeeps when you figure it out! Then when it breaks down 100 miles from nowhere in the desert you can say "No worries mate!"
Hehe, I guess since you put it that way it might be worth it.
DansGreyMj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Nuevo, Ca
If you want i can bring mine over so you can take a look at it. I also just replaced my vac line and i think i have my old ones somewhere you can have, I think they might be in better shape than yours.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Yeah, we might need to get together. Then I can also verify some of the random wires that are not plugged in.
DansGreyMj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Nuevo, Ca
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Maybe not, but I bet your MJ runs much better than mine so I can at least tell if they are important in that regard.
willj341
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rancho Cucamonga, CA
My jeep does the same thing on startup. I have to shut it off then restart it three times before the idle comes down to normal. If I try and drive it when idle is high, it's very scary and hard to stop. I took it to a shop and they said it was an intake leak and charged me one hundred bucks to fix it. High idle went away for about a week but then returned. I hate dealing with it. My uncle use to own the same year and everything and he told me to take it to the dealership and check for any recalls. I guess there were many problems with the high idle caused by a cracked intake so they started replacing the intake with a better one. Hope this helps I still need to take it to the stealership lol. I had a bad experience there once and I’m scared to take it back.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Stealerships are an expensive waste time and lots of money. You can learn everything you need to know to fix it yourself right here. Just invest the time to read up.
What is the year, etc of yours? It makes a difference.
If it is 87-90, then you need to read up on fixing the multiple grounding problems (cheap wire fixes). Also read up on the IAC, Idle Air control Valve (stepper motor), and the relay that operates on power down.
I have never heard of cracked intake manifolds. Leaky vacuum lines, and intake gaskets yes. Both are cheap easy fixes.
Welcome to
!
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
So the VC leaks a bit of oil on the driver side and it sits kind of pooled up there. I'm wondering if maybe that oil has degraded the intake manifold gasket enough to allow air in. If that was the case, that oil should get pulled into the manifold, though, right? Is there a vacuum bottle in the fender/bumper area for the RENIX engines, too?
On an off-note: I replaced the front driver blinker bulb socket since the old one did not have the grounding tab (it was rusted away). Now, the indicator in the dash stays lit up (except when I use it, then it blinks) with the lights turned on. How funny.
On an off-note: I replaced the front driver blinker bulb socket since the old one did not have the grounding tab (it was rusted away). Now, the indicator in the dash stays lit up (except when I use it, then it blinks) with the lights turned on. How funny.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
There should be a slight vacuum on the VC, and it should not be leaking puddles of oil. Have you replaced the CCV lines on the VC?
Is there oil on the air filter?
Yes, there is Vac bottle in the passenger side bumper, and a large....and smalll... very long contorted tube & hose path running to it. Lots of well hidden secretive places for the vacuum to leak.:shhh: I found my last tiny leak with a stethescope right after turning the engine off.
Bulb may be in backwards, on the blinker issue.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Hmm, well the VC leaks for sure. Not sure if it's evident in any of the previous pics.
Yes, I replaced the CCV exhaust line but not the intake line. There was serious blow by before I replaced the CCV exhaust line. I ran the truck and mashed teh grommet down and sealed up that small hole in the intake line, but it didn't change anything.
I'll double check the bottles and make sure they are intact, along with the tubing.
Bulb is in correctly; it's a dual filament and will only fit the socket one way.
Yes, I replaced the CCV exhaust line but not the intake line. There was serious blow by before I replaced the CCV exhaust line. I ran the truck and mashed teh grommet down and sealed up that small hole in the intake line, but it didn't change anything.
I'll double check the bottles and make sure they are intact, along with the tubing.
Bulb is in correctly; it's a dual filament and will only fit the socket one way.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
I beg to differ, I have managed to install the bulb the wrong way.
What do you mean you sealed up the small hole, I hope you don't mean the one that leads to the intake manifold, that is designed to pull a vacuum on the VC to remove blow by gasses?
I need to go back and read this lonnnng thread from the begining.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
lol, well it's in there right; i made sure to line up the grooves according the the guides on the bulb.
Shoulda been more clear -- on the intake grommet for the CCV, it's ripped at the VC so it's not creating a perfect seal. That's what I was talking about. I have a pic already up above and you expressed concern about it.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Update time:
Went and bought a propane torch and started the truck put it in D (with someone on the brake of course) and ran the propane around as many vacuum hoses as I could reach. I ran it around the intake manifold, all the hoses up top, etc and it did not change the idle at all.
So a few thoughts:
The truck must be in P or N for this to work - I did it this way because in P or N the idle will start low then rev up really high.
I did not go slow enough when testing
There is no vacuum leak where I tested
Thoughts? Should I do the test again?
Went and bought a propane torch and started the truck put it in D (with someone on the brake of course) and ran the propane around as many vacuum hoses as I could reach. I ran it around the intake manifold, all the hoses up top, etc and it did not change the idle at all.
So a few thoughts:
The truck must be in P or N for this to work - I did it this way because in P or N the idle will start low then rev up really high.
I did not go slow enough when testing
There is no vacuum leak where I tested
Thoughts? Should I do the test again?
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
I can't tel you how many dry run tests I have done over the years, and needed to go back and retest, just to be sure what was real. This sounds like one of those for sure. It does need a stable idle in park or neutral for sure.
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Alright, I'll retest it and see what kind of result I get.
It's not very often that I can get a stable idle in P or N; the idle usually goes wild and is unpredictable. I'll try it on a cold engine, maybe it won't go wonkers.
It's not very often that I can get a stable idle in P or N; the idle usually goes wild and is unpredictable. I'll try it on a cold engine, maybe it won't go wonkers.
