Engine Transplant

[Xhavier_5478]

So I've had 2 cherokees for good while now both 1992 model year, one I've owned from 114,000 to 170,000 miles, and the second was purchased at 176,--- miles on it. The second is almost rust free, and in much better asthetic state, well this weekend I finally embarked on pulling the engine and transmission out of the older jeep, the only issue I ever had with the engine was some low idle stalling that I attributed to a dirty IAC, but after 10 years and it sitting for the last 3 it wouldn't hurt to go through it while it's out of the Jeep.

I figured at the very least I'll do the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket, new valve cover gasket. Clean the whole exterior, and possibly paint it.

Is there anything to look for in the head gasket area, should I even mess with it, it has never leaked oil into the coolant or vice versa, and it never consumed oil, just a bit of a mess around the valve cover.

I know a common upgrade for the early model HO is a later model intake manifold is it worth tracking one down? and does that mean I have to pull a matching throttle body, or can I reuse the one I have? Is there a alternator relocate bracket that doesn't require fabrication or removal of the stock fan?

Finally a few pictures of pulling the engine transmission..
Engine rebuild. by xhavier, on Flickr
Engine rebuild. by xhavier, on Flickr
Engine rebuild. by xhavier, on Flickr

 

[ehall]

I figured at the very least I'll do the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket, new valve cover gasket.

Might want to replace filter elbow O-rings too, easier to do when the engine is out

Is there anything to look for in the head gasket area, should I even mess with it, it has never leaked oil into the coolant or vice versa, and it never consumed oil, just a bit of a mess around the valve cover.

Me personally, I would not disturb

I know a common upgrade for the early model HO is a later model intake manifold is it worth tracking one down? and does that mean I have to pull a matching throttle body, or can I reuse the one I have?

I have the newer intake on mine. My guess is it only improves performance at high end of the RPM band, but I got it for free with the donor engine so whatever. You still need the throttle body for your era, since the sensors and electrical hookups changed periodically.

Is there a alternator relocate bracket that doesn't require fabrication or removal of the stock fan?

YJ/ZJ/4-cyl XL bracket does not have the fan pulley, and moves the alternator up. You must use electric fans to run this.

 

[Xhavier_5478]

Thank you for bringing up the Oil Elbow O-rings, I did have to pull the elbow to get the engine mount off, and would have just tightened it back down without thinking about the o-rings.

Well if I don't do the later model intake manifold, whats the easiest way to clean out my current manifold without a parts washer?

 

[8Mud]

Thank you for bringing up the Oil Elbow O-rings, I did have to pull the elbow to get the engine mount off, and would have just tightened it back down without thinking about the o-rings.
Well if I don't do the later model intake manifold, whats the easiest way to clean out my current manifold without a parts washer?

I took mine down to the local quarter wash, laid it on an old rubber floor mat and washed it inside and out, with a couple of bucks worth of spray time. Let it dry, sprayed it down with grease remover, used a long handled bottle brush for the insides and repeated with the pressure washer. I'd say 95-98% clean. My local quarter wash has a grease trap and the guy said oil and grease are OK, but he frowns on using grease cutter so I waited until he wasn't looking (Schrödinger's cat).

 

[lazyxj]

Well if I don't do the later model intake manifold, whats the easiest way to clean out my current manifold without a parts washer?

I used Industrial Purple detergent, sold at Home Depot, to clean manifolds, filthy undercarriages and other greasy parts.
http://www.google.com/shopping/prod...src=17588969&gclid=CI_WpOnU3MICFVKPfgodFhQAlw
Used full strength, it bubbles the surfaces of the aluminum manifold, without damaging it. It is the strongest, off the shelf cleaner I have found.
Do be careful not to get it on any body part, especially the eyes, it's strong and will burn tissue.
Gloves and safety glasses suggested.

 

[ehall]

Dishwasher when mom isnt home. It will leave a smell so you need time to run empty load(s) to get rid of the evidence

 

[Xhavier_5478]

Dishwasher when mom isnt home. It will leave a smell so you need time to run empty load(s) to get rid of the evidence

Hadn't thought of that one...

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

the 2 motor swaps ive done the only thing I didn't do was the oil filter o rings, and there the only thing that leaks, make sure to use fel pro rubber gaskets. I did the 99+ intake swap on my 98 and noticed no difference, if you can get one super cheap (less then 50) id say go for it, if not I wouldn't bother. you can use carb or brake cleaner to clean out the inake or even a little gas, just be carefull

 

[lazyxj]

Dishwasher when mom isnt home. It will leave a smell so you need time to run empty load(s) to get rid of the evidence

Oh god, would there would be hell to pay if she came home early!
I burned up the inside of her microwave 25 years ago, drying some interior carpet, and I'm still getting crap about it.
If you are married, think long and hard before doing this.

I do like using the oven to bake freshly painted parts, only doing this when she is out of town.

 

[Xhavier_5478]

I feel like that would be pushing it with the girlfriend.. I think I'll bust out the brake clean, simple green and scrub brush..

 

[lazyxj]

I feel like that would be pushing it with the girlfriend.. .

If you are looking for a way to break up....

 

[Xhavier_5478]

So engine is out of the jeep and on the stand, valve cover is off, as well as oil pan, I plan on doing the rear main seal next, should I pull the damper and open up the timing cover, the engine has 169,XXX miles? Is there any issues to look for with the timing chain? after that I plan on simple greening the whole outside to try and clean the built up oil and dirt off of it.

 

[Xhavier_5478]

So I have the engine flipped in the stand, and am looking at the cylinder walls and they all look to still have their crosshatching, so I am pretty excited about that. while turning the damper on the front, it has resistance on the compression stroke, and I can hear the valves releasing, near the bottom of the cylinders there is carbon build up, should I try and clean that before I put the oil pan back on, or just run some seafoam in the first oil fill up?

 

[Alaskan89XJ]

8MUD; Did Schrödinger shake the box? Just a thought outside the box!

Deposits of loose carbon could score metal surfaces. I'd be really careful about contaminating even one flake, one tiny piece dropping in and around any moving parts, i.e., like your engine full of moving parts, and bearings!! IF you were to rebuild the engine go ahead and use elbow grease using any method, i.e., rotating brushes, scrapers, chemicals, etc. to remove carbon. (example; using rings you break apart, [in two], to clean out the piston grooves). If not a rebuild--let it be, and go with your idea of using Sea Foam, which at the very least would be a good thing.

I'd even go further, (and better knowledge than my input is requested), by pouring back 5 quarts of your saved used engine oil, (coarse filtered of course), using a fresh oil filter, and introducing 1 quart of ATF, (automatic transmission fluid), and run your engine for only 10 to 15 minutes. It will smoke like crazy, so be sure your neighborhood can see that your area is not on fire, (i.e., let them see you, and that you do not appear to be not overtly concerned, lol). Drop all of that oil, and old filter. Replace with new filter, fresh oil. I'd go with the Sea Foam, but also introduce Marvel Mystery Oil in addition, and run about 500 miles, and do another oil change, maybe with high mileage type oil.

Don't have the figures, but there is a measurement you can make using a feeler gauge on your oil pump. Look it up, and clean the screen. Some have had problems with the pipe being dislodged in the process, so beware. Some would change out the pump while they are there. OEM would be the way to go if possible, or some quality after-market.., I don't know what to suggest.

Haven't had to do it yet on the 4.0, but in older Jeep engines, (using brass tools to punch out, and push in), one would coat 3 surfaces of the upper side of the 2 part rear crankshaft oil seal with; RTV, liquid detergent, and engine oil.

Can't remember exactly, but there is a way to check your timing chain on whether, or not, it has stretched. With your distributor cap off, (all plugs removed too), put a tool on the crank nut, and turn it backwards watching for movement of your rotor. If it does not move while turning the nut counter-clockwise some, (1.5"?), but then it does past that, then your timing chain has stretched. If the nut comes loose first try, then you'll have to get creative to make the check. BTW: there was a time where Jeep used a metal chain, and a part metal, and nylon tooth gear, that would bite it at around 75--100k. Seems they got over that cheap idea, as it does not seem to be a major problem anymore, as I have not seen much discussion of said here on this forum. But if you insist, change it out for OEM stuff, or the best parts that might be described by other members to you.

Should you paint the engine, you could use some good cleaner, acetone, and apply 1000 degree, (+/-), paint, then primer paint, then paint it with several coats of your color, and then several coats of clear. If I were to get that radical, I'd look into high temp epoxy clear. However your best bet is to go to the body-work portion of this forum, and get the expert opinions there. When I did my last engine rebuild, (258 cu. in.), I also completely cleaned out the complete engine compartment, and repainted it all the same OEM color, as well as the different OEM color for the engine.:us: