I am going to put together a write up (not step by step) for an engine swap.
I started with a 1995 4.0 that was running but had alot of blow-by in Cylinder 6. Donor was 1994 2x4. One thing to remember about my tips. They may be unsafe and not technically correct but I made what I had work. I also had zero help so I had to figure out a few work arounds.
I will update with pictures of certain things when I have time. The main purpose of this is to give little tips and trick that I have learned from doing this swap.
I am not going to do a step by step just going to note things that make the job a little eaiser.
Loosen the clutch fan and water pump pulls with belt still on the engine. Don't take them off just break them loose. (helpful when taking them off)
Exhaust/Intake manifolds. I would pull them off before pulling the engine. 2 reasons
1. Will allow you to get the top to bolts out of the bell housing easier. (I will explain that later)
2. give you a good spot to hook your hoist/chain when pulling the engine.
When pulling the manifolds don't for get to disconnect the fuel lines from the bracket or you may bend and break your metal fuel lines.
CPS. removing the CPS when pulling the engine is a catch 22. Because it is difficult to get to the bolts but if you choose not to remove it. You are taking the risk of smashing it with the engine when pulling/dropping. I used an 11mm deep well 1/4 inch drive with 1 small extension from the bottom. Top bolt I used an 11mm ratchet gear wrench.
Dust cover 2 bolts. I used an 18mm wrench and socket.
Torque converter bolts. I used 15mm ratchet wrench. I put a 18mm socket on the crank pully to turn.
The dreaded top two bolts in the bell housing. 3/8 ratcheting gear wrench with a breaker bar tube. What I done since I had the manifolds off I hooked up the hoist and removed the motor mount bolts and lowered the engine down a little bit. This allowed me to get to both from the top of the engine bay with ease. The bolts are inverted torx E12 for technical reasons. I am just stating what worked for me.
How I secured my tranny. May not be the safest way but worked for me. I took 2 ratchet straps and hooked 1 each to the dust cover bolt holes. I ran the other ends and crossed them like an X to the A arms. I think this was easier because it allowed the tranny to move a little bit while putting the engine back in. It also kept the tranny at the same height that I had it at so made putting the engine back in. Felt safer than using a jack to me.
Oil Leaks- When getting a JY donor It would be a good idea to check for possible leaks. (look at condition) Very common leak in the 4.0 Cherokee is the Oil filter Adapter O-ring. This is a pretty difficult job when engine is in the jeep (needing to make special tools to get the big Torx 60 bolt off.) I Learned the hard way that I should have just replaced these O-rings before dropping the donor. total cost would be around $10 that's buying the Torx-60 socket and the O-ring set.
Oil pan leaks. If you have the extra money I would go ahead and do a rear main seal/Oil Pan gasket in the future. Rear main seal is around $6 and the oil pan gasket is about $35 for the re-usable one piece.
Both of those leaks can be fixed with motor in the jeep but would be alot easier with motor out.
Freeze Plugs- check the condition while motor is out. They are not very difficult to replace while engine is out. They tend to rust and leak from the factory. They are not that expensive (I would suggest the brass replacements) rubber expandable plugs will work but to each is to own.
Labeling-
Wires I used regular labels and wrote a description that made sense to me
Bolts- I used about 100 zip lock bags. And a few sharpies. And each part that I took off got a bag with description and what size socket/wrench (I went as far as weather I used an extension or not even deep or short barrel.) The more info you give your self will make it easier putting it back in.
Feel Free to add to this if you can thing of something that will help others in the future.
I started with a 1995 4.0 that was running but had alot of blow-by in Cylinder 6. Donor was 1994 2x4. One thing to remember about my tips. They may be unsafe and not technically correct but I made what I had work. I also had zero help so I had to figure out a few work arounds.
I will update with pictures of certain things when I have time. The main purpose of this is to give little tips and trick that I have learned from doing this swap.
I am not going to do a step by step just going to note things that make the job a little eaiser.
Loosen the clutch fan and water pump pulls with belt still on the engine. Don't take them off just break them loose. (helpful when taking them off)
Exhaust/Intake manifolds. I would pull them off before pulling the engine. 2 reasons
1. Will allow you to get the top to bolts out of the bell housing easier. (I will explain that later)
2. give you a good spot to hook your hoist/chain when pulling the engine.
When pulling the manifolds don't for get to disconnect the fuel lines from the bracket or you may bend and break your metal fuel lines.
CPS. removing the CPS when pulling the engine is a catch 22. Because it is difficult to get to the bolts but if you choose not to remove it. You are taking the risk of smashing it with the engine when pulling/dropping. I used an 11mm deep well 1/4 inch drive with 1 small extension from the bottom. Top bolt I used an 11mm ratchet gear wrench.
Dust cover 2 bolts. I used an 18mm wrench and socket.
Torque converter bolts. I used 15mm ratchet wrench. I put a 18mm socket on the crank pully to turn.
The dreaded top two bolts in the bell housing. 3/8 ratcheting gear wrench with a breaker bar tube. What I done since I had the manifolds off I hooked up the hoist and removed the motor mount bolts and lowered the engine down a little bit. This allowed me to get to both from the top of the engine bay with ease. The bolts are inverted torx E12 for technical reasons. I am just stating what worked for me.
How I secured my tranny. May not be the safest way but worked for me. I took 2 ratchet straps and hooked 1 each to the dust cover bolt holes. I ran the other ends and crossed them like an X to the A arms. I think this was easier because it allowed the tranny to move a little bit while putting the engine back in. It also kept the tranny at the same height that I had it at so made putting the engine back in. Felt safer than using a jack to me.
Oil Leaks- When getting a JY donor It would be a good idea to check for possible leaks. (look at condition) Very common leak in the 4.0 Cherokee is the Oil filter Adapter O-ring. This is a pretty difficult job when engine is in the jeep (needing to make special tools to get the big Torx 60 bolt off.) I Learned the hard way that I should have just replaced these O-rings before dropping the donor. total cost would be around $10 that's buying the Torx-60 socket and the O-ring set.
Oil pan leaks. If you have the extra money I would go ahead and do a rear main seal/Oil Pan gasket in the future. Rear main seal is around $6 and the oil pan gasket is about $35 for the re-usable one piece.
Both of those leaks can be fixed with motor in the jeep but would be alot easier with motor out.
Freeze Plugs- check the condition while motor is out. They are not very difficult to replace while engine is out. They tend to rust and leak from the factory. They are not that expensive (I would suggest the brass replacements) rubber expandable plugs will work but to each is to own.
Labeling-
Wires I used regular labels and wrote a description that made sense to me
Bolts- I used about 100 zip lock bags. And a few sharpies. And each part that I took off got a bag with description and what size socket/wrench (I went as far as weather I used an extension or not even deep or short barrel.) The more info you give your self will make it easier putting it back in.
Feel Free to add to this if you can thing of something that will help others in the future.
